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From England to Mongolia in my 1993 Toyota Pickup for the summer of 2012

Old 03-22-2012, 06:44 AM
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By the way, for picture T, are those the timing marks for the engine? Is that how I set the ignition? Thanks
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:05 PM
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Alrightayyyyy, time for another update

Picture AC - Referring to the manual to start the timing chain job off right


Picture AD - Popping the timing cover off now that the crank pulley and the oil pump have been taken off


Picture AE - Continued removal of the timing cover - I was able to lightly pry the cover off by pressing against the coolant pipe (found on the right side of the cover).


Picture AF - The cover prior to cleaning


Picture AG - Continued the unclean cover


Picture AH - Cleaning up the timing cover - I used a razor blade, brake cleaner, a barsol tank, and a cleaning wheel (to remove those extra tough pieces of gasket). I was careful though not to gouge the surface of aluminum surface though.


Picture AI - Continued cleaned cover


Picture AJ - Continued cleaned cover


Picture AK - Continued cleaned cover


Picture AL - Soooooo the cover has a lot of bolts going on it so I made use of a pizza box to have a template, it worked out great


Picture AM - The template materials


Picture AN - The final template


Picture AO - The template looks like it was used for target practice


Picture AP -Taking off the old chain (noting which side is the loose side - the passenger side will be the side that has the slack taken out with the tensioner when the tensioner is under pressure from the oil pump - find my comments in this thread is you were as concerned as I was about the tension of the tensioner ( maybe I over worried ) https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nstall-251224/)


Picture AQ - The driver side is the taut side of the chain (should be move roughly a 1/16 of an inch)


Picture AR - Pulling the distributor gear on the cam off (I discovered there was in fact a spline/dowel pin for this gear to lock into. This was a relief to me because I wasn't sure whether the gear would spin freely if I wasn't able to provide the accurate amount of torque to the cam bolt, everything worked out though ) Btw, note, you should break the cam bolt loose before taking the timing cover off since there is a bolt hiding under the distributor gear.


Picture AS - All the old timing chain parts off


Picture AT - I assume this is normal wear on the tensioner


Picture AU - Got all the new timing chain parts in (new guides, new tensioner, new chain, new upper cog, new lower cog)


Picture AV - On a side note, noticing the upper cog dowel pin hole lines up with the timing arrow on the 1st rocker shaft assembly. Note that the dots on the upper cog split the shiny chain link, I read somewhere that this should happen


Picture AW - Pressing in a new front main seal on the oil pump. I used an odd shaped GM tool because there were tons and tons of them at the shop I was in. More importantly, I didn't want to use a piece of exhaust pipe because I was worried it might cut the seal. I put some grease on the outer lip of the seal to make the seal slide in easier, then I tapped lightly into place.


Picture AX - The timing cover and the new oil pump on the truck. I put a thick bead of black RTV silicone on top of the gasket (after I placed the timing cover gaskets in place) around the upper and lower parts of the timing cover. So more specifically, the surfaces that were in contact with the head and the oil pan. I put a light bit of RTV on the timing cover to ensure a seal happened between it and the block.
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Old 03-28-2012, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DIHOWARD View Post
you might want to check out this site before you go.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/
I just checked out that site in more detail, thanks. I think I might create a build thread there too or at least get information from their site. Yotatech has a lot of good info to offer though

I found this via the expedition portal, I'd say it was a good description of the adventure.

By the way, tomorrow I go out to get my "International Driver's License" from AAA Its a nice piece of insurance to have along the way since using my South Carolina ID at the border of Mongolia will probably only generate more confusion, but the International Driver's License has a translational to Russian so that might save my beans in the even the Inter Police don't believe I am just driving through (this is given I have valid visas as well)

Which to mention, I will be getting my visas sent out in the next couple weeks, things are moving along guys.

Remember July 14th is the first day of the rally, where in the first 2 and half days I have to make it to a castle in the Czech Repub for a checkout party before all the teams make their own trail to the holy grail of Mongolia's capital I can't wait to get to that castle, Wahoo!
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:52 PM
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My two cents: if you haven't bought a new clutch, just go with a Lux stock replacement clutch.

The 235's should be adequate, but I have found the 31/10.50x15 to work real well, not enough bigger to hurt gearing too much, able to run low pressures without too much heat buildup; use 'em in rock, dirt, sand, mud, snow and on blacktop. Good all-around tire, strong sidewalls.

Get a real roll cage installed: there are kits pre- cut and bent, you'll be cutting holes in your dash, and you should think about adding door bars to the kits.

At any kind of speed, your roof will fold like a house of cards. I've seen more than one 89-94 where the steering wheel was the highest point on the vehicle after a rollover or flip.

Lose the lift blocks, replace the U-bolts with new ones, replace the shocks and steering stabilizer with Bilstein products.

Crank some of the pre-load out of the front torsion bars, but go buy two new adjusters, FIRST.

Take a good look at your idler arm. Look at SDORI site.

Get/build better skid plates.

Get decent seats and 5-point harnesses. Mount them correctly.

Think about a snorkel for your air filter.

Dust/water proof engine, etc.

Carry a fire extinguisher inside, at finger's grasp, and another outside, where anyone could grab it if need be.

Lubricate everything, maybe twice.

I just placed an order for SDORI's 1.5" ball joint spacers and the lower control arm support brace. But I won't have 'em installed in time to help you. I will let you know what I think of the fab work.

I'm still looking for rear springs. Think I'm going to go with 63" Chevy.

Good Luck!

Have fun!

Get to crackin'!

Last edited by SARtruck; 04-06-2012 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 04-06-2012, 04:24 PM
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my 0.02

Looks like you'll have a great adventure and be supporting a worthy cause... good for you...

x2 on loosing the lift blocks... if you want/need lift there are more reliable ways to do it... dial out some of that front lift those CVs look way over stressed for a long trip in rough terrain... BFG AT 31x10.5R15s will work fine and don't need lift... those steel rims look like a good idea...

most vehicles over there do quite well on stock height suspension... check that the steering recall has been done on the truck it looks like it has'nt... you don't need to go to the expense of Bilsteins all around new Rancho RS5000s will work and are plenty tough enough [do the steering stabilizer too]... I'd carry 2 extra spares if you have the space I've seen films of driving over some of the roads you are planning to go over and some of the rock is made of old razor blades lol they can rip a tire easy... you'll want patch kits and a portable bead breaker... extra fuel cans... possibly one of those tool box/bed tank combo things... one or two more locking metal tool boxes...
Proper offroad bumpers with grill guard [bull bar type for wild life not a rock stinger] and sliders... over size coolant tank in case of over heating to save water/coolant you'll be going thru some deserts... a portable fuel filter kit to pre-filter fuel when you are filling up [once you leave Ukraine the quality of gas may drop off rapidly]...

Unless I misunderstand this is more of a navigational rally then a timed event [once you get past that 2.5 days to Prague that is] so unless you're going to be going wild you won't need sport seats/racing harnesses... and if the idea is to sell it to a local when you get there and you're not going to be going "all Dakar" along the way I'd leave the stock seat in there maybe with just a little added padding/recover using a heavy duty canvas... hard wear and easy to clean... obviously a portable Sat Phone and HF radio {that you can remove before sale if you like} so you can call for help... a pair of EPIRBs one each for you both.
GPS clearly... carry a portable back up just in case stored separately...
some MaxTrax http://www.maxtrax.com.au/...
a portable welding kit [if you get a bigger alt. and dual batt. set up you can even stick weld with just the jumper cables (and sticks obv.)], a portable cutting torch...
off course additional drive/work lights... LED type are best more light/less power draw and you want to think about that... after you've made that all night repair you want enough amps left in the can to start up...

all I can think about for now...

Last edited by aviator; 04-06-2012 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SARtruck View Post
My two cents: if you haven't bought a new clutch, just go with a Lux stock replacement clutch.

The 235's should be adequate, but I have found the 31/10.50x15 to work real well, not enough bigger to hurt gearing too much, able to run low pressures without too much heat buildup; use 'em in rock, dirt, sand, mud, snow and on blacktop. Good all-around tire, strong sidewalls.

Get a real roll cage installed: there are kits pre- cut and bent, you'll be cutting holes in your dash, and you should think about adding door bars to the kits.

At any kind of speed, your roof will fold like a house of cards. I've seen more than one 89-94 where the steering wheel was the highest point on the vehicle after a rollover or flip.

Lose the lift blocks, replace the U-bolts with new ones, replace the shocks and steering stabilizer with Bilstein products.

Crank some of the pre-load out of the front torsion bars, but go buy two new adjusters, FIRST.

Take a good look at your idler arm. Look at SDORI site.

Get/build better skid plates.

Get decent seats and 5-point harnesses. Mount them correctly.

Think about a snorkel for your air filter.

Dust/water proof engine, etc.

Carry a fire extinguisher inside, at finger's grasp, and another outside, where anyone could grab it if need be.

Lubricate everything, maybe twice.

I just placed an order for SDORI's 1.5" ball joint spacers and the lower control arm support brace. But I won't have 'em installed in time to help you. I will let you know what I think of the fab work.

I'm still looking for rear springs. Think I'm going to go with 63" Chevy.

Good Luck!

Have fun!

Get to crackin'!
Thanks for your response SATruck, so here is what has been done thus far. I am going to have a video to sum everything up nicely

- I bought a Pro Clutch Kit from LCE Engineering, something like 1450 pounds which I think is more than adequate for our truck

- Its good to hear your personal opinion about the 31 by 10.50x15 because I have to call BF Goodrich to get the free tires sent and those look like the best thing for us to use

- I will look more into a real roll cage, although I had thoughts about just welding the joints on the roll bar. However, I don't want to truck be mushed cheese if it flips

- I'm glad you mentioned removing the blocks, we have been debating whether its better to take off the blocks or the body lift. I think taking the suspension lift would be wiser option. Although, the body lift gives us a higher CG, I must admit the body lift makes working around what would be tight spaces sooooooooooooo oooooooooooo much nicer, that extra room might be a real life saver out on the rally in the future. I am definitely going to replace the shocks with bilsteins, and yes.....that steering stabilizer must be replaced. I will see about getting new U-bolts, I was think about cutting down the ones I had once I take off the blocks.

- We will buy two new torsion bar adjuster, we were seriously confused about how the front of this truck is raised up and down. Do you know if there is video anywhere/ more documentation about how to adjust the height of these things in the front?

- Idler arm??? I will look more into this, but this is what I found for information about it thus far

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/

http://www.sdori.com/SDORI_Idler_Bearing_Install.html

- I'm definitely thinking about skid plates, I wonder if I could make my own out of 1/4 steel or something along those measures????

- We won't need 5 point harnesses or race seats. Primarily because of who we are giving the truck to, it might limit the use of the truck for them then. I see where your logic is though, and they would be good

- Have you ever used PVC piping to make a snorkel? I am trying to do it now Although if this ill-advised I will buy one. One thing that confuses me is......where do I drill with the hole saw into the air box to mount the snorkel and am I suppose to drill into the airbox?

- Dust Proof the engine? Water proofing sounds good, but dust proofing I am confused on?

- Will look into a fire extinguisher

Everything has been plenty lubricated with Anit-Seize and white lithium grease to save time later if something needs to be broken done
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by aviator View Post
Looks like you'll have a great adventure and be supporting a worthy cause... good for you...

x2 on loosing the lift blocks... if you want/need lift there are more reliable ways to do it... dial out some of that front lift those CVs look way over stressed for a long trip in rough terrain... BFG AT 31x10.5R15s will work fine and don't need lift... those steel rims look like a good idea...

most vehicles over there do quite well on stock height suspension... check that the steering recall has been done on the truck it looks like it has'nt... you don't need to go to the expense of Bilsteins all around new Rancho RS5000s will work and are plenty tough enough [do the steering stabilizer too]... I'd carry 2 extra spares if you have the space I've seen films of driving over some of the roads you are planning to go over and some of the rock is made of old razor blades lol they can rip a tire easy... you'll want patch kits and a portable bead breaker... extra fuel cans... possibly one of those tool box/bed tank combo things... one or two more locking metal tool boxes...
Proper offroad bumpers with grill guard [bull bar type for wild life not a rock stinger] and sliders... over size coolant tank in case of over heating to save water/coolant you'll be going thru some deserts... a portable fuel filter kit to pre-filter fuel when you are filling up [once you leave Ukraine the quality of gas may drop off rapidly]...

Unless I misunderstand this is more of a navigational rally then a timed event [once you get past that 2.5 days to Prague that is] so unless you're going to be going wild you won't need sport seats/racing harnesses... and if the idea is to sell it to a local when you get there and you're not going to be going "all Dakar" along the way I'd leave the stock seat in there maybe with just a little added padding/recover using a heavy duty canvas... hard wear and easy to clean... obviously a portable Sat Phone and HF radio {that you can remove before sale if you like} so you can call for help... a pair of EPIRBs one each for you both.
GPS clearly... carry a portable back up just in case stored separately...
some MaxTrax http://www.maxtrax.com.au/...
a portable welding kit [if you get a bigger alt. and dual batt. set up you can even stick weld with just the jumper cables (and sticks obv.)], a portable cutting torch...
off course additional drive/work lights... LED type are best more light/less power draw and you want to think about that... after you've made that all night repair you want enough amps left in the can to start up...

all I can think about for now...
Hey aviator, im glad to be seeing some of the experienced guys finding our thread, we definitely want to hear from you guys and get any advice you can provide us with. Yeah, there is double charity here, 1) for the mongolian tribesman who gets our ride and 2) for my sister's disease of Rett Syndrome, we will be raising roughly $3150.00 over the course of the next year for her and other children with the disease

Alright sounds like the lift is outta here, which fine with us. The ride in the truck feels rough and I am wondering if it was from the blocks on the springs. When you say dial out the torsion bars, I am still confused about how these things work. Maybe it might be because ours looked so our and decrypted haha, I think I will buy some new ones like SATruck was talking about. Tires check, sounds like the BF Goodrichs are a good way to go; the steel rims for the tires should be here some day soon, then I can throw up some new pictures of the freshly/ well kinda fresh ride

When you mention the bead breaker kit and the patch kit, you are talking about the tires correct? I think we are planning on carrying 4 spares on the truck because as you said there may be some nasty terrain, however I hope there aren't too many razor rocks where we are going, that would be sucko. As far as jerry cans/ extra fuel cans way we are thinking the same, there will be long stretches where fuel reserves won't be seen for a loooooooooooooooonnnnnng time haha. As far as the fuel type situation, well.... let's just say after Ukraine we will be buying fuel from most likely someone on the side of the road, and it kinda sucks because we don't know any of the fuel properties/ quality of the fuel. It will probably be really hard communicating those ideas in foreign languages as well, but that is part of the adventure, buying fuel in a foreign language haha

Is this what you had in mind for a bumper? I know that we will have to replace our front bumper because the people who setup the rally don't like the rust on our front bumper so its gotta go.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/armor/f...per-no-stinger

We are definitely bring more than enough maps, print outs and a GPS with us. We will be looking into/most likely getting a Sat Phone. What is a HF radio? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_frequency

a pair of EPIRBs, is this what you were mentioning? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distress_radiobeacon
If so, yeah I would agree this would be a smart idea.

As far as the rally you have the right idea aviator. Most teams won't be nearly as prepared as us, but then again most rarely take the route we are taken. The best team we know that took our route did it in an Ice Cream truck painted lime green and those were a couple of crazy guys from the U.S. However, somewhere in the stans, just before the Himalayas their radiator literally fell off the truck and was pretty much unoperatable at that point haha. We will have bit more of chance, even though last time someone took a truck instead of an economy car they got a bunch of interesting graffiti drawn on their truck, lets just say it wasn't the most becoming things you wanted on the side of your rig haha. The rally isn't like the Dakar, it is a navigational rally, and more or less can you get to the finish line? For us, we choose to make it a little harder since we wanted to drive on the Pamir, the silk road for a history lesson, and the Himalayas because I've never been to mountains ever..... haha so why not go there.


Picture AY - By tool box do mean something like this? I am wondering how secure something like this will be? I found this at Northern Tool for something like $309.00



Btw, Northern Tool winches don't look like they will cut the mustard.... I think if I understand correctly I need a winch that handles 1 and 1/2 times the weight of my truck, so if I have a 3000 pound rig I need a 4500 pound winch since I will be dragging the truck through some mud/desert

Picture AZ - The 2500 pound winch that would probably not do the job, I hear I am going to need something more in the 500 dollar range....ughhh haha



Picture BA - Some specs on the cheapo wincho


Picture BB -You mentioned the maxtrax things, they look cool and I have seen them before. Is this a similar idea, I found them at Northern Tool too haha. I guess these are the cheapo versions??? Thanks for the help

Last edited by 2012MongolRally; 04-07-2012 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:02 AM
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Those things on the pic immediately above are slot walls for the inside of panel vans/18 wheeler trailers to secure load bars/straps to... they won't cut it... the maxtrax are designed to do double duty as a shovel and traction aid and are avail. for $290 usd from the arizona dealer linked off the maxtrax site...

I would say 1.5x weight is a min. for a winch [2500lbs is for an ATV not a truck] ...personally I'd want at least 2x max gross weight capability that means about 8000lbs for your truck... though I'd probably go for 10k lbs just for extra muscle... remember the harder it has to work the hotter it will get the sooner it will fail... don't forget tree saver straps, a pulley, and if you really want to be safe one of those spade doo hickies that you set in the ground when there are no trees/rocks to strap to...

Those are the kinds of box I was referring to... some are made better than others... there is at least one mfg. that makes one with an integral fuel tank... that is super strong.

for HF radio info check Corey's build thread he has an HF radio in his truck and several other members do also... HF radio is like a beefed up CB radio... [simplest terms HF guys don't bite my head off lol] it works better for use in remote areas because it is not limited to line of site like the cb is... depending on wx conditions you could be able to talk to some one on the other side of the country with an HF where with CB you might get the other side of the county...

fwiw I don't actually have a lot of hands on experience with expeditioning/remote area treking I've just researched it a lot for when I do have the time lol... that and pilot/crash survival training [not SERE] lol

hope this helps...

Last edited by aviator; 04-08-2012 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:51 AM
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response in blue

Originally Posted by 2012MongolRally View Post
- I bought a Pro Clutch Kit from LCE Engineering, something like 1450 pounds

I've pulled full-size domestic crewcabs, mired to the axle , out with my stock replacement. You should be good to go. Did you have to cut very much off the flywheel?

- I will look more into a real roll cage, although I had thoughts about just welding the joints on the roll bar. However, I don't want to truck be mushed cheese if it flips

At the very minimum, re-weld that bar, make sure there are backing plates at least as big as bar's footplates, chamfer the edges so you don't make a metal punch. That's assuming a wall thickness of at least .095 on that mild steel tubing. Roll cage kits around $250, welding costs depend...make sure that bed is securely mounted and not compromised by rust.

- bilsteins, ...new U-bolts, I was think about cutting down the ones I had once I take off the blocks.

The quality shocks are worth it, they'll last the life of the truck, just get the standard 46mm (IIRC) model, yellow w/ blue boots last time I looked.

DO NOT reuse U-bolts: they are designed for one time use. It's a dangerous practice to not replace them.

Probably no more than $50 or so.

- Do you know if there is video anywhere/ more documentation about how to adjust the height of these things in the front?

Search is your friend, you will probably break the adjusters that are on there now. Go spray more penetrating oil on them this minute. The less pre-load on the torsion bars you can handle, the better ride and road compliance. Here, the 31" tire helps, giving you an inch of ground clearance over the 235.

I run my pre-load where there is 12.5" from the top of the wheel rim to the bottom of the fender lip. That figure will be higher with your body lift.

- Idler arm???

Subject of a recall, aftermarket solutions also available, dealer should be able to tell you if replacement parts have been installed via the VIN.
I've had no issues with the recall repair from a local dealer a few years back.


- I'm definitely thinking about skid plates, I wonder if I could make my own out of 1/4 steel or something along those measures????

If you still have the stock front skid plate, you could just bolt a plate of 1/8 or 3/16 aluminum to it. If you have access to a brake, you could make that plate a little long and have it extend back under the front cross member. Don't make it so wide it interferes with droop travel.

Think about beefing up/extending the transfer case skid plate.

- We won't need 5 point harnesses or race seats.

Wear kidney belts, always wear shoulder harness/seat belt combo.

- Have you ever used PVC piping to make a snorkel? I am trying to do it now Although if this ill-advised I will buy one. One thing that confuses me is......where do I drill with the hole saw into the air box to mount the snorkel and am I suppose to drill into the airbox?

No, but it's been done. You want to minimize bends and use as large as diameter (3" min.) as practical. You'll want the open end to point back and down just a hair to minimize dust and water entry.

You want to have the snorkel feed come into the side of the air box, upstream of the paper filter (you probably ought to put three in your spares box, the new owner will appreciate it them if you don't, which is less likely).

You might think of adding a drain right before the air box so that if any water did get in...

- Dust Proof the engine? Water proofing sounds good, but dust proofing I am confused on?

Basically, you want to seal up any entrance where dirty air or water could enter with foam or automotive dum-dum putty. Like around dipstick, PCV and vacuum lines, air filter, intake tract, ignition, etc.

- Will look into a fire extinguisher

GET TWO: less than $50. Make your own sturdier mounts, but quick release.

Everything has been plenty lubricated with Anit-Seize and white lithium grease to save time later if something needs to be broken done

What kind of lubrication (weight/type) are you using for the engine, transmission, transfer case, power steering, front and rear differentials?

I didn't read every caption on your pics, did you replace water pump, thermostat, hoses and belts? Heater hoses, too?

Front hubs and bearings inspected, greased? Door and hood hinges? Door locks, tailgate?

Carry two spares that are easily accessible: NOT under bed. Buy, and practice using, a cheap HiLift jack. Weld a tab on bumper or roll bar and bolt jack to it.


Last edited by SARtruck; 04-08-2012 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:08 AM
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just an idea for thought, not sure if it has been done or not, you can make changeing a cv axle, (front 4wd) alot easier to change on the trail since your cv angle in pretty steep but knocking the studs out where the cv axle attaches to the front diff. and useing grade 8 bolts instead, makes more clearnce for cv axle removeale, the last thing you want to do is lose 4wd out in the trail somewhere
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by aviator View Post
Those things on the pic immediately above are slot walls for the inside of panel vans/18 wheeler trailers to secure load bars/straps to... they won't cut it... the maxtrax are designed to do double duty as a shovel and traction aid and are avail. for $290 usd from the arizona dealer linked off the maxtrax site...

I would say 1.5x weight is a min. for a winch [2500lbs is for an ATV not a truck] ...personally I'd want at least 2x max gross weight capability that means about 8000lbs for your truck... though I'd probably go for 10k lbs just for extra muscle... remember the harder it has to work the hotter it will get the sooner it will fail... don't forget tree saver straps, a pulley, and if you really want to be safe one of those spade doo hickies that you set in the ground when there are no trees/rocks to strap to...

Those are the kinds of box I was referring to... some are made better than others... there is at least one mfg. that makes one with an integral fuel tank... that is super strong.

for HF radio info check Corey's build thread he has an HF radio in his truck and several other members do also... HF radio is like a beefed up CB radio... [simplest terms HF guys don't bite my head off lol] it works better for use in remote areas because it is not limited to line of site like the cb is... depending on wx conditions you could be able to talk to some one on the other side of the country with an HF where with CB you might get the other side of the county...

fwiw I don't actually have a lot of hands on experience with expeditioning/remote area treking I've just researched it a lot for when I do have the time lol... that and pilot/crash survival training [not SERE] lol

hope this helps...
Haha, yeah I had no idea if those grated things I found in Northern Tool would work. Cool stuff though, I will look into those Matrax again. Btw, I found Corey's HF Radio thread, this is the one you were talking about right?

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f97/...er-ham-155889/

As far as experience with expeditioning, well lets just say I am learning as much as I can before I go. Hey, you are a leg up on me with pilot /crash survival training, good stuff. My teammate has the most experience on any expedition of our two man group. He has gone on a few 30 days wilderness adventures through Montana and Alaska, but more knowledge is always better, thanks aviator
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:15 AM
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Yeah that was the thread I was talking about... though you might get better results/range with a vehicle mounted CB type HF radio...

Check out the linked thread these guys are very well prepared for remote area treking and have a very interesting story to boot... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f5/e...erland-236215/
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:45 AM
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Whatever type of communications devices you decide on, confirm with the promoters and the nations that all are OK.

BTW, I have associates that have had good results with SPOT trackers.
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SARtruck View Post
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SARTruck,

I didn't cut much off the flywheel, and its still in spec, so we are good to go there. As far as welding, we don't one have our disposal so we may need to consider the cost of welding.... But yes, definitely beefing up the backing plates. I wonder....are kidney belts needed if I reduce the torsion bars and take the blocks off the truck maybe the ride won't be sooooooo rough.

Your question about the lubrication. We hit up and greased/repacked the wheel hubs and bearings, put the correct weight motor oil, differential fluid, transmission fluids, brake, transfer case, transmission, and pretty much anything that could be lubricated on the driveline. I didn't think about the doors, but it might be a nice thing to do for the guy getting the truck New hoses, belts, etc. have been put on, we will be using the old stuff as reserves if something goes wrong.

Automotive dum-dum putty sounds as universal as JB Weld (which I am bringing just in case, that stuff is awesome!!! )

SPOT trackers, Ill check em out.

Btw, did you know that taking this truck is something that militia drive around in over there, so I wonder if we may be questioned at borders for being military/ mercenaries haha

Last edited by 2012MongolRally; 04-08-2012 at 07:20 PM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by westjohns yota View Post
just an idea for thought, not sure if it has been done or not, you can make changeing a cv axle, (front 4wd) alot easier to change on the trail since your cv angle in pretty steep but knocking the studs out where the cv axle attaches to the front diff. and useing grade 8 bolts instead, makes more clearnce for cv axle removeale, the last thing you want to do is lose 4wd out in the trail somewhere
Good idea, I was talking to my friend who was telling being about some guys that traveled from Spain to South Africa going through the Congo Route which turned out to be a nightmare for them because....they sheared off a wheel at the wheel studs. I understand the bolt pattern was strong enough to handle the parallel and axial torque on each individual bolt/ stud shaft, so when they started driving through some tough pits at crazy angles they sheared the bolts off. Soooo they ended up camping out in the Congo for awhile Although, I won't be driving through the Congo Jungle it might be a good idea. To be honest though we already threw new axles on and packed the bearings....so idk if we will do the conversion. If I find a way to do the conversion (which it is a conversion from the 6 to 8, correct?) and I see it as absolutely necessary we may. Thanks for the idea, any idea about the thread on here that might have it, I keep coming up with search results that won't include the "6 bolt pattern to 8 bolt pattern conversion"?
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:44 PM
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Hey guys, I finally took the time to load up the rest of the videos and edit them. So here they are, I may have repeated the one from earlier, ehhhhh whatevs, but enjoy. I will post pictures on the rest of the build down thus far soon.

Note that these videos don't follow the build order, but they are more or less just about the build process

Out-takes 1 - Basically the finished point about 2 weeks ago (some other changes have occurred since then)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maFl2DWoDjg

Out-takes 2 - Our humanity is being robbed of by the truck at this point
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9DxX...feature=relmfu

Out-takes 3 - Torching the bolt off
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_Nmm...feature=relmfu

Out-takes 4 - Need a light for the cigarette, sure yes the magmatized bolt haha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8jvW...feature=relmfu

Out-takes 5 - Making a new bolt...because purchasing one is just tooooo easy. The bolt was needed for the tensioner and it took a crap on use while assembling the belt assembly
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUsdA...feature=relmfu

Out-takes 6 - Black RTV became my best friend when I didn't have the gasket, I hope it works Btw, got any idea for the shifter handle that I ripped off haha, beer tap????? Might make for an interesting touch for the future owner of the vehicle haha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seQax...feature=relmfu
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 2012MongolRally View Post
I didn't cut much off the flywheel, and its still in spec, ...are kidney belts needed if I reduce the torsion bars and take the blocks off the truck maybe the ride won't be sooooooo rough.

... the doors, but it might be a nice thing to do for the guy getting the truck

Btw, did you know that taking this truck is something that militia drive around in over there, so I wonder if we may be questioned at borders for being military/ mercenaries haha
You should have no clutch worries then. Earlier I heard you mention slipping the clutch - don't. If your truck is running right, it has the grunt at idle to crawl over rocky washes in low range, and climb rocks with a little throttle. Slipping the clutch causes a rapid heat build up and heat destroys the clutch. I raced with a guy that slipped the clutch, he'd go trough a new one in 100 miles of desert. Same clutch lasted thousands of miles with him not at the wheel.

Use your gearing, not your clutch.

You might find a welder willing to sponsor your small needs if he knows the cause.

Two kidney belts = $45 The trucks don't ride that bad, but long days over rough roads add up, and your lower back will thank you.

You can lube door hinges with a little motor oil, but use the correct automotive lock lubricant, probably around $5.

Yes, they are called "technicals," effective hit and run vehicles that need little maintenance.

Where do you think the Taliban received Factory Authorized Service?

That was actually one of the factors that made me choose a Toyota, and I think the 86-94 "world' truck is one of the best.

Have fun!
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SARtruck View Post
You should have no clutch worries then. Earlier I heard you mention slipping the clutch - don't. If your truck is running right, it has the grunt at idle to crawl over rocky washes in low range, and climb rocks with a little throttle. Slipping the clutch causes a rapid heat build up and heat destroys the clutch. I raced with a guy that slipped the clutch, he'd go trough a new one in 100 miles of desert. Same clutch lasted thousands of miles with him not at the wheel.

Use your gearing, not your clutch.

You might find a welder willing to sponsor your small needs if he knows the cause.

Two kidney belts = $45 The trucks don't ride that bad, but long days over rough roads add up, and your lower back will thank you.

You can lube door hinges with a little motor oil, but use the correct automotive lock lubricant, probably around $5.

Yes, they are called "technicals," effective hit and run vehicles that need little maintenance.

Where do you think the Taliban received Factory Authorized Service?

That was actually one of the factors that made me choose a Toyota, and I think the 86-94 "world' truck is one of the best.

Have fun!
So kidney belts will be better than the Swedish Memory Foam I was going to lay down on the seats??? Wait a second.... what if that foam eats me alive....or I just fall asleep

That is the best reason to buy the truck then, its worldwide, but I had no idea the Taliban was getting factory authorized service....hmmmmm do you think there is a chance that we might get car-jacked for our truck??? Man that would make the trip really interesting, crossing the finish line on camel back, 3 months later! haha
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 2012MongolRally View Post
Swedish Memory Foam

the Taliban was getting factory authorized service...

hmmmmm do you think there is a chance that we might get car-jacked for our truck???
Foam and kidney belts a good idea.

I don't think it has been, at least not since late 2001...

Look poor and stupid, act old and wise...
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:56 PM
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Very cool thread! Id love to do this or something like it in my truck but unfortunatly i dont have the funds and wont anytime soon lol. Seems like you have a lot invested already! But its for a very good cause and it will be an adventure of a lifetime! I wish you the best of luck!!

You have some good responses from some very knowledgeable people. And it seems youre coming along nicely!

One concern\ of mine is that frame rust. All the rust for that matter lol. I even noticed theres rust on top of the engine. Id check over everything on the frame if you havent already. These frames are famous for rusting thru of not protected properly and in certain environments. And check electical connections as well. If theyve been wet that can be bad and lead to failure down the road. Tps, ECT, Injectors, MaF, are just a few. Look for any corrosion or rust on the insides of the connections/connectors. And check resistance/voltage levels per fsm spec.

Call your local toyota dealership and give them your vin number. They will tell you if theres any recalls and if theyve already been done. I just had my relay rod recall service done to my truck(about a yr ago) and they replaced the relay rod(of course) all tie rod ends (inner and outer) and gave me a factory alignment, all for FREE!!

Also, I knew someone personally that had a (IIRC) 93 toyota truck 4wd. He bought it for $800 because the frame was so badly rusted. Within a week he called the dealer and they told him it was under recall for frame paint failure or incorrect paint used or something like that. They offered him Blue book value of the truck. He accepted and went and bought a better yota with the $3000 they gave him for his old one.

Just some food for thought......Ill be following along to see how everything goes!! GOOD LUCK!
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