YotaTech Forums - 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners

Need Rear Locker Acutator

Dodecahedron — Tue, 19 May 2026 09:30:33 GMT

Looks like i got scammed when i bought a rear locker. The actuator is toast. Anyone know where I could find one for a decent price. Yotamasters has them but they're over $500.
98 4runner.
Any leads much appreciated.

Attempting to control AC with haltech / 94 pickup

White5thgen — Mon, 18 May 2026 16:03:39 GMT

I�ve got my haltech all setup and running currently setting up an IAC and haltech controlled fan relay I wanted to do the same with the A/c compressor.

would anyone be able to assist me with figuring out in the A/c wiring where the request signal is? Maybe I�m missing something but this is my goal

�Wire the 22RE's A/C Request signal from the cabin switch to a spare Analog Voltage Input (AVI) or Digital Pulsed Input (SPI) on the Haltech.�

I am assuming once that is located, I should be able to find the ground side of the compressor relay pretty easily to setup a DPO

any help is appreciated

Fuel pump hose issue

bufbooth — Mon, 18 May 2026 02:49:38 GMT

I have a 1991 Toyota pickup with the 2.4L engine. It would start and idle but would bog when accelerating to about 30 mph and then cruise okay. The fuel pressure was at 10psi vs the usual 50psi. I installed a new Toyota brand fuel regulator and fuel filter, but that did not help. I brought a new fuel pump and then Found the issue at the old fuel pump, the rubber hose from the pump that attaches to the metal line on the fuel pump came off, which I thought was due to a loose hose clamp. I decided to install the new fuel pump with a better hose clamp and all was well for about 2 months when the same bog issue returned. The rubber hose came/blew off again. What would cause the rubber line to blow off? Thanks in advance...

Fuel pump hose issue

bufbooth — Mon, 18 May 2026 02:46:36 GMT

ID this gasket

Eighthnote — Fri, 15 May 2026 21:28:26 GMT

Hello all, at the top of the 3.0 motor in my 1993 SR5 4x4 I've looked and looked for the gasket that goes in between the housing where the upper radiator hose is mounted. There's nothing in there (but nasty which I'm trying to clean out) it just looks like a L housing for the return hose. If you know what that housing are is called that might help. Again, just looking for the gasket.
Thank you,

I moved the top of the housing and hose out of the way so you can see it.

Radiator Replqcement

Hitdogg — Thu, 14 May 2026 23:26:20 GMT

Hey guys, 1991 4Runner, manual transmission. Noticed a coolant leak at one of the brass plugs at the bottom of the radiator. The only thing I can think of that those plugs are for is transmission cooling for an automatic transmission. Which brings me to my next thought, and that is there isn't supposed to be coolant there. So I feel like there may be an internal leak causing coolant to be there. Correct me if I'm wrong please.

So any suggestions on a new replacement? Any pros or cons for one from RockAuto? I feel pretty sure it's the original radiator. As always, thanks in advance!

Recommrndations needed: Vendor for exhaust system

Ken WYMT — Wed, 13 May 2026 14:16:09 GMT

I am trying to find a vendor for a muffler and downstream pipe. I don't want to deal with a stealer or "muffler shop." I just want to buy the parts and install them. I bought a BRexhaust kit from Autozone for my wife's Matrix and it was easy to find the right parts, and it fit fine. I am getting very frustrated trying to find the parts for the truck:
1994 extended cab pickup, 121.5" wheelbase, 2.4L 22RE engine, 4wd, 5 speed trans.
If you have bought from a vendor that made it easy to find the right exhaust system parts, please share that info. I am in Montana, but I don't mind ordering online.

Thanks!

'85 Dolphin Running Weak!!

Van_Rover — Mon, 11 May 2026 00:35:42 GMT

This problem is slowing me down. My rig won't go above 35 mph!

It's got a rebuilt 22re with 6k miles. It drove fine for a year, but now it shakes on idle, and backfires through the intake on throttle blips as well as being absolutely gutless. I've done a fair amount of troubleshooting already, but I'm at a dead end.

Here's what I've tried:

all new vacuum lines
new spark plugs and wires
new cap and rotor
new injectors

checked throttle position sensor
checked O2 sensor
checked air flow meter
checked coolant temp sensor

adjusted timing
adjusted valve lash
Fuel pressure test: good
compression test: 150, 150, 150, 135

Oh man, if anyone has any ideas, you're wiser than I.

Attached Files

IMG_8466.mov (19.99 MB)

New Brake swap upgrade for 1983�1995 Toyota Pickup 2WD front wilwood, 12.2" rotors.

Silver Mine Motors — Fri, 08 May 2026 18:01:43 GMT

Hey guys,
Just finished designing and machining a new front caliper bracket for the 1983�1995 Toyota Pickup 2WD. It lets you bolt on either a Wilwood 4-piston or 6-piston caliper using a stock 2018 Lexus IS300 rear rotors � that�s a 12.2 inch rotor compared to the original 9.7 inch rotor.
The four-piston caliper is Wilwood part 120-13844, and the six-piston option is 120-13435. Both are a huge step up from the stock single-piston setup, and the pads are significantly larger too.
After testing, the four-piston setup clears 15-inch wheels, while the six-piston needs 16-inch wheels. The new rotor mounts on the front of the hub, so the wheel sticks out about 8mm per side.
This has been one of the most requested upgrades I�ve gotten over the years, and I�m glad it�s finally done.
If anyone wants to brackets or full kit I've got them up on silverminemotors.com

Replacing the rocker tower screws 22re

wrmwrld — Wed, 06 May 2026 16:45:38 GMT

3/4's of the way through rebuilding my 22re in my 4x4 1993 pickup, want to replace the phillips screws holding the rocker shaft in the tower (3 total) with hex head button screws. I cannot for the life of me find the part number or a vendor that sells this exact bolt. I tried ordering from McMaster Carr and the bolts they sent are trash and are not even threaded all the way up to the button head, and so wont seat flush in the tower. Any suggestions?

Crank NO start

lateknight666 — Mon, 04 May 2026 07:29:49 GMT

I bought a 91 4runner, supposedly a rebuilt 3vze in it (some paperwork to prove) but hasnt run well since rebuild, almost 10 years ago. I have been researching relentlessly about what causes this and the fixes. So far i have replaced all related relays (efi, cor, etc), ive replaced all fuses in engine bay, and checked the fuses in the drivers kick panel, which were all good. I tried a different ecu, checked voltage to ecu and it was good. Ive replaced ignitor, dizzy, wires, checked voltage at coil, checked voltage going to dizzy, etc. Which were all fine. Recently found a thread on here about how the maf could be the issue, i popped mine open and it was fine. I have an extra that i know is good, tried it anyways, and it made no difference. None of which has made the fuel pump prime or run at all when the key is turned. When jumping the fuel pump, the vehicle starts right up, but runs poorly. Once revved up past 2k, the check engine light comes on and gives code 52.

My thoughts are the injectors aren't receiving correct voltage and causing the knock sensor to trip, but I still am at a loss as to why the fuel pump will not run unless jumped.

New guy, same old ideas....

zandrewzoo — Sun, 03 May 2026 16:45:43 GMT

I have owned a 91 pickup for the last several years. I have hauled coal, fire wood, tools, etc. The truck has been good to me and honestly I haven't treated it well. It's rusting and falling apart to the point I can't drive it currently. When it was purchased it had 380,xxx on the clock. I driver it till 420,xxx when the odometer stopped and replaced it. That odometer had 130,xxx on it and it stop a couple years back at 264,xxx.

I have a lot of love for the truck. My son which just turned 15 does too and this is were things change. The motor starts and runs but honestly it's on its last leg and I was wanting to do something stupid like an an audi 20v 1.8t with a k04 some there is kits for the 1.9 diesel the 20v will swap in just as easy. My son does not want that route, sadly. He wants to go with a turbo 22re so I purchased pistons, manifold, turbo; the works. I am not going to be stupid and try shove 21psi into it. I just want enough to get it up the dang road without shifting into 3rd going up hills. I am thinking 10psi is a good number but believe tuning will be needed. I have a det3 which I think would be a good option. I have searched but no one has went this route. Is there any resources to help me on this endeavor?

4x4 indicator switch

Hitdogg — Sun, 03 May 2026 01:34:31 GMT

Hey guys. I seem to have a bad 4x4 indicator switch on my transfer case. I ordered a 20 dollar switch off ebay, but it is a tad bit long. Meaning the switch is made even in 2wd. Looking at them physically, it's hard to tell how much longer the new switch is. I think, the part number I need is 84222-35050. The part number that I ordered shows in the listing as a 84222-35090. The connector was different, but was easy enough to switch out with the original, but like I said, it's a bit too long. Anybody have a source for this switch? Or know the correct part number? Its a 1991 4Runner with a manual transmission. Thanks in advance.

Asking for a friend 1991 V6 4wd question

22R88 — Sat, 02 May 2026 00:42:29 GMT

So a buddy has this truck and did some engine work, he has it all back together but cannot locate where the hose coming off the vent canister connects to the engine. One line comes from tank and the canister has a low point drain hose but he cannot find or recall where the one on the engine hooks up. Any help or tips appreciated.
Lawd I sho miss my totalled 1988 reg cab😉

thanks
22R88

IAC Valve and Surging Idle

chrismelto — Fri, 01 May 2026 19:43:46 GMT

So, I have a 1990 Toyota Pickup 22RE. It's been sitting for a while. I tried to clean everything up and put it back together. I got the truck running, but it had the surging idle. The first thing that I did was cover the hole inside the throttle body and the idle stabilized. So, I removed the throttle body and I removed the IACV. The Idle Air Control Valve looks fine. It looks relatively clean. I even removed the hose that goes back into the thermostat to make sure that it wasn't clogged too. Is there anything that I can do to fix the IAC valve besides just buying a new one? Or should I just resolve to buy a new one?