Tankz

So I am going to copy and paste plus add to what I posted in general electric and had no responses but several views.

Basically as I make the chassis ready for a motor swap and continue to drive the vehicle daily I need to upgrade the audio system in the truck. 1990 ext cab pickup with the 3.slo.

With that said plans are as follow:

Create a lift block to put under the seats or brackets to raise the seat in order to mount the amps underneath. Looking to make a custom box out of most compartments. The 2 rear "door" panels that have the storage will be turned into where the mids go. Most likely 6-8" in each. Plan on adding 2 or 4 6"/9" coaxles on the bottom of the storage panel under the rear seats. Mount a shallow sub in the larger of the 2 storage units on the bottom if i still feel the need but going to wait until I have the mids in there. Also add 2 highs into the front pillars. Want to use a single din unless i find a great deal on a double din. Also looking into door speakers and making and putting the a nice set up front and only doing 2 6"/9" in the rear. I am not sure yet. I am going for quality over sound. I absolutely hate static.

With all that said here is my question. Can i fit larger than a 4" speaker in the dash? I have not opened it up. How large is the inner part behind that screen? How much plastic can i cut away before i cannot mount anything?

Also, I plan to upgrade to the 110 amp alt. Any complications with this or is it a plug and play? Wanted the 160amp but NWOR said it is physically to big

Anyone who has done audio knows that in order to get the most out of it you need to keep the sound in the vehicle. I prefer to mute all outside noise. The less sound outside you can hear means the more quality generally of music you can achieve. With this in mind, I would never use Dynamat but instead Fatmat, same and if not better quality but cheaper. Now I hate doing all that since the carpet than bulges in areas if not careful, and you honestly cannot cover EVERYTHING. I had a buddy of mine strip out his Acura RSX of all deadening and used a black paint that was supposed to sound deaden and it also protects everything underneath. Anyone know a good brand of such material. He rolled it on using a roller and said it is actually quieter than the stock and he dropped 100+lbs of dead weight in his car.

Also is there a company that makes not just GOOD but EXCELLENT! replacement carpet? I plan to trash the stock one, stained and flat. I need to be able to pull it a little to be able to mount the speakers on the bottom of the passenger seat.

Anyone have pictures of door speakers installed? Any pictures of behind the door panel with measurements? Before I start tearing into my truck I want to have a plan so I can execute in a matter of a weekend working most hours a day on it. I plan to custom wire the entire system minus the harness for the head unit.

trying to keep it at 2 amps. but only time will tell.


Thanks in advance.

RSR

Some have fit 4x6s in the dash, but at least on the drivers side, that's the largest you can probably do. I'm running the Alpine 4.5s in my front and am extremely happy. I also have the factory speaker boxes in the front too, so 4.5s are the largest I can fit. Have stock toyota in rear speaker boxes (everything but bass sucks but that's what you expect from 20+ yo speakers, but with the Alpine's performance in mids and highs, just getting base from the rears works great) -- but also built for only 4.5T speakers, and you can 6.5s in that area...

As far as soundproofing, start first with all your weatherstripping. Without doing that, any matting is just a waste of $. I've done main door seals, sunroof, and quarter windows thus far. J strips at top of doors are $100 for the pair, so haven't done those yet and my quarter windows are still quiet, so I'm good there.

But for the money and performance, it's hard to beat cruiser crap's quiet crap / quietcrap from what I've gathered on these boards (haven't installed in my own rig yet, btw): http://www.cruisercrap.com/quietcrap/index.html
You might still want to do use dyna or fatmat immediately behind/around your speakers, but for general sound insulation cruisercrap should be great.

Also, you might have seen this forum I posted: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...w-pics-269140/

I haven't done it yet, and haven't updated, but I think I'm going to go with 1/2" (need to remeasure) speaker/filter foam (should allow air through yet help to sound deaden) and just use double side tape it over the cab side of that paneling. Will probably just do the vent in back corner and then under speaker. But might decide to do on sides of seatbelt too. http://www.thefoamfactory.com/opencellfoam/filter.html I'll probably go with the 20 as it passes 3 more cubic feet of air per minute (~17%) than the 30, and presumably makes my rig more fuel efficient when driving with the windows down even though I have my windows up with air on recirculating most of the time anyways...

After doing my weatherstripping, I get some engine noise and then road noise from the rear vent, but new weatherstripping alone makes a world of difference.

94Yo

Was just thinking about starting a thread on this very same topic... I tackled the beginning of my audio setup today in my newest 94 xtra cab.

I'll be posting pics and doing a thread soon, but here's the short version. I installed Infinity 4629CFP (4x6 plate speakers that ROCK!) in the factory 4" location in the dash. These required VERY little fabrication. They clear fine and I only needed to trim a little of the corner of the plate for the drivers side location. Takes 2 seconds. I then cut 6" holes in the door for my JL Audio c5 midrange woofers. This gives me a true three way component setup that will absolutely scream clarity. An 8" JL Audio w7 is next and will be go behind the drivers seat and the amps to power the sub and midrange will go in the storage compartment under the rear seat (driver's side).

I'll also be adding some 6.5" component JL c2's to the side compartment cubbys in the rear as well.

Some serious pics to come (and possibly my first thread!)

94Yo

Also, what alternator upgrade are you looking at? That's probably the next task at hand.. Unless I pull the trigger on herculiner for the rockerpannels first. ;D

RSR

LC Engineering makes the highest plug and play alt that I'm aware of.

http://www.lceperformance.com/High-O...-p/1080014.htm

Nashman used a 7mgte high output alt with some fabrication: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...63/index2.html

RSR

Also, might want to look at upgrading wiring, including big 3, before a new alt:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rite-up-33526/

RSR

Actually, here's a 170 that was at the top of today's posts: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...15/index2.html

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

I am currently going to be doing a timing chain job with head on. I am pulling off the power steering pump to rebuild it. So I will have access to the alternator which is all covered in what I assume to be ATF from the pump (that's the way I bought it). I am going to be buying Trail Gear's bracket kit to install the GM alternator on my 22re. Check this site here:

http://alternatorparts.com/index.htm

http://alternatorparts.com/Toyota_hi...lternators.htm

I have exchanged emails with the guy. I was going to do a CS- 130 140 amp because eventually I want a winch in front of my 4Runner. The guy told me that with any hard use with the winch, it would burn up the smaller CS-130 alt, which in itself is probably bigger than the original Nippondenso alternator. He recommended the bigger CS-144 alternator.

Check here for the CS-144.

They would install the 1/2" v belt pulley I would need and supply the adapter harness for plug and play.

I just don't believe a stock size alternator that was rebuilt by Jackie Chan somewhere in the mainland and ships for $102 is going to last putting out that kind of power, if it even comes anywhere near it which I doubt. That's why alternators that put out any kind of power are bigger in size so that heat can be dissipated through the bigger case. Because heat is the enemy to any alternator...just saying.

The 140 amp CS144 for $180 brand new American made with American parts is hard to beat. No core charge either. You get what you pay for... Do it right and do it once.