4x4guy74

I just thought that some of you might be interested in my current project. I am setting up a rear end for a four link set up. The pictures show the progress so far. The little hoop on top that points foward will be plated and receive the upper link mounts. I'll be sure to post more pictures every step of the way.

Joe

Lookin good - ever thought about using the Y link on top as opposed to using the "usual" 2 tubes? If you're going with the 2 tubes, are you making them adjustable or non-adjustable? Are you going with TJ coils?

Cebby

Looks good. How about a few questions...

Are you making your own tabs or buying them from somebody? Are you making 2 or 3 mount points on the tabs to allow fine tuning?

How are you attaching the links? Heims, JJ's?

Is this a trail only rig? What's it going on?

Relocating the gas tank?

4x4guy74

The rig is trail only and will have heims. I am making my own tabs, and the link configuration will have two triangulated links on top with parallel links on the bottom. The coils are 3" QA1 brand. The tubing is 1 3/8in x .120wall D.O.M. and all the plating and tabs will be 1/4in. In my first link suspension I found that the holes on the tabs tend to enlarge with heavy use. So I have a little trick up my sleve. I'll show you more about it as things go. By the way, thanks for the complements.

4x4guy74

Oh, I almost forgot. The fuel tank is gone. In its place is a fuel cell mounted in the bed cage.

4x4guy74

Well, I got the top plated in and the upper link mounts fabbed and welded in place. If you look closely you can see the hardened washers welded to the link ears. the washers actually double the thickness of the ears, and since they are a hardened steel they will prevent premature wear of the holes like I mentioned before. If they do wear out all you have to do is grind them off and install new ones. Much better than replacing the entire ear.

SloPoke

I'm really likin' this thread so far. Thanks for the progress pics/

Your work looks good man. You got some skillz.

SEAN_at_TLT

You do nice work!

Why not sleeve the holes or make the tabs thicker instead of welding washers on each side?

Keep the pics coming!

914runner

How would he sleve the holes? Anyways, this is really sweet! Where are you located in southern Oregon?

SEAN_at_TLT

I lieu of placing a washer on each side, he could bore the hole over and sleeve it with billet steel bar-stock drilled to the proper ID and cut to the width of the original tab with the two washers. Then weld around the entire circumference of both sides. That would make for the same dimensions but with one thick piece instead of three thinner pieces.

4x4guy74

No matter how you reinforce the holes they will always begin to wearout. Think of it like this. You have a bolt going thru a hole. Dirt and grime accumalate in and around the hole. That dirt and grime effectivley turns the bolt into a file that constantly files at the inside diameter of the hole making that diameter larger over time. High strength materials will slow this process down, that is the reason for the washers. They are harder and more dense and will slow the wear process down. Eventually they will wear, but they can be replaced very easy. Putting sleeves in the holes is a good idea but as they wear they will be very difficult to replace. The only other option I can see is to dissemble and clean the areas after every outing, but that is just not practical.

SEAN_at_TLT

I would think that link mounts would wear more from the torque-load placed on them as opposed to from grit, especially in a serious rig like yours. Stock 4Runner link mounts will last the the life of a vehicle that is not used very hard off-road even when subjected to ton's of road-grime etc. Don't get me wrong though, I think the way you are doing it is great. I was just curios if you had considered other mounting options etc. I still think you've done really nice, clean fab work...

4x4guy74

Well, I am sorry to keep you all waiting. I have been extremely busy trying to get my website (www.freewebs.com/1974k5) up and running that I haven't had time to post the progress. I finally found the time so here is the rest of the project.


Here you can see that the mounts for the captured coil springs have been fabricated and installed. Also, note the lower link ears.


The coil springs sit on top of the spring mounts, and are bolted to them with a keeper that sits inside the spring. The top of the coil is then attached to the chassis in the same manner, thus the name captured coil.


Notice that the lower link ears have a hooded tab. The hood prevents the mounts from bending or being pulled from the axle tube.


The shock mount passes thru the spring mounts plate and is welded from front to back. It is angled to accomomodate high pinoin angle, and located above the axle tube to keep it out of harms way.


And here you can see how the hoop is plated and how the upper link ears attach to it. The hoop faces foward and provides the correct angle for the upper link ears. Making for an extremely strong attachment point.

Thanks for all the complements. Feel free to post your comments or ask questions.

914runner

want to make me one?!

GRNTACO

Vey nice! I would like to do this someday to my Tacoma.

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

Is that the shock bolts on the sides? depending on the pinion angle, you might need to re do that. or chage to similar mount as the links for the shocks.

BruceTS

4x4guy74 nice fabrication work!

Have you ever tried to use the ACOS system?http://www.kevinsjeepparts.com/acos.html

When I do a 4-link on my rig, I'm planning on doing some of the same things you have, but will only clamp the spring at the axle housing. It's intresting that your having problems with your mounts wearing out, it seems if the bolts were tight enough that there shouldn't be any movement to cause the wear in the first place. The shock mounts I plan on using will be of a double shear design, I've seen way too many post type failures.

What size bottom links are you planning on running? With the lower mount level with the axles the load factor is increased dramatacally, even though the increased ground clearance is desirable. With the 4-link calculator, it can give you exact numbers. Vertical separation looks good, but hard to tell, I'm guessing 8"? I'm gonna keep my lower mounts at the axle close to the stock location, but beefed up to handle the abuse, considering my rig is still gonna be a DD.

SloPoke

Thanks BruceTS. Just looking at that I can better the design and solve a problem many linked coil springers run in to. Excellent linky! Needs a bottom set collar for when the axle droops enough to allow the coil to fall out. That collor needs to be attached to an inner rod that is sleeved by the threaded body. That rod needs a spring also sleeved inside the threaded body to resist the elongation of the coil spring in extreme droop. Kinda acting like a buggy leaf (3/4 eleptic) for coils. Folow me? or do they make those already?

BruceTS

Not too sure where your going?

With the ACOS on top and the coil spring clamped at the axle housing, a limit strap to prevent excessive droop, there is no way the spring can fall out. The lower spring clamp can be attached and still allow for the bump stop to work properly, by attaching a plate above the hold down bolt.

SloPoke

What I'm getting at is doing away with the limiting straps and building a limiting function inside the threaded body of the spacer. Hard to explain and my drawing skills suck.