Gevo

Hi guys. I have been searching and searching for a crossmember to replace the stock one for my 1991 Auto, single case, 4Runner. I also want to add a 1.5 inch drivetrain lift to put the tranny back where it belongs after the 1.5 inch body lift.

So, bubuilt is the ONLY option out there. The quality seems to be acceptable, but the price of $340 is simply not. All the other fab shops make them for dual case and or manuals.

So, I'm looking to make one for myself. I'd rather not re-invent the wheel and spend too much time measuring and decided how best it works. I looked around for a DIY measurements and layout, again no go.

So, next step, ask you fine folk! I need to get a local fab shop to cut and bend the 3/8 -inch steel sheet, otherwise I can do everything else. I want to give them exact measurements for nice clean square cuts. Any resource for the information I am looking for?

Or, better yet, a crossmember that cost $200 or less

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Just what is wrong with the one you have ??

If your going Custom just what measurements are you looking for

I would take my own measurements .

I have built parts from the customers drawings and measurements having tolerances within spec .

That end up not even close to fitting.

why 3/8"

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

1/4" would work fine.

Gevo

Well I am looking for all of the measurements. Lol. I guess I will have to take them myself as my options are limitted. Perhaps draw it in autocadd and share with ya'll if it works. I just like to have a plan before cutting and welding begins

And if I remember correctly, the budbuilt and trail gear crossmembers are 3/8? Ill have to double check.

Gevo

Oh, and the one i have is the stock one. It hangs to low, its to bulky and i want a 1.5 inch drivetrain lift. Also,I want a bigger area of protection

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Have you figured out how that much lift effects the drive line angles and lengths ??

Gevo

wyoming, as far as i can foresee, a 1.5-inch drivetrain lift won't have any ill effects. Also, I use the term slightly incorrectly, I won't be lifting the whole drivetrain, just the tranny.

When I did the body lift, I needed a bracket to correctly connect the 4x4 linkage to the body. I decided that I would prefer to lift the tranny back up into it's place, so I micky-moused an adapter to last the meanwhile.

Do you guys think I should worry about the 1.5-inch 'drivetrain' lift drive line angle issue???

Gevo

I double checked, and it seems like budbuilt is using 3/8-inch thick steel for their crossmember. Even so, I have read that some people were able to bang it up pretty bad.

Maybe 1/4-inch would work with some well placed reinforcements?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

It comes down to what your going to be doing !!

People can tear up anything but you really need to work at destroying a 3/8" cross member .

Rock bashing for fun see just how big a rock you can drop your truck on??

When the stock one looks to be around 3/16"

Just build apiece to your stock cross member to get your mount to sit 1.5" higher.

Then build a skid plate to mount below the cross member .

Just the way I would look at doing it .

One big piece trying to hold it up and get the first bolt started .

Gevo

lol, no, no rock bashing. As I said, I am not making this up, that's what some fab shops use for crossmembers

Yah, after all my searching it seems like for my setup the only options are to do it myself or pay lot more than I feel it's worth.

wyoming, thanks for your responses. Somehow I hadn't thought of using the existing crossmembers geometry. That makes the job much easier!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I tell people these things all day long

You have something already built it just needs some adjustments to meet your needs .

Gevo

That's why these forums are a great place! Perspective, ideas, opinions. Helps in our own conclusions

MudHippy

I would personally go with ⅜" minimum.

My question is...why lift just the tranny? I mean 1.5" isn't a lot. But you're still going to be putting extra stress on the motor and trans mounts if everything isn't lined up as it should be. And whatever other reasons I can think of why to lift the engine too.(I'll edit those in later).

Gevo

Hi Mudhippy,

I've put some thought into lifting the rest of the drivetrain. My main reasons for NOT lifting it are:

- There is more space between the firewall and engine block, leading to a little bit better cooling of that area. We all know that the cylinder closest to the firewall are usually where the heat issues are with the head gaskets.

- Clearance for work. Mainly in the same area as noted above. Can't really get in there when stock.

- Center of gravity. Already bunch of these offroad addition lift the center of gravity, so anything I can do to keep it low that doesn't affect offroad capability is good for me.

1.5-inches is very little and I am pretty sure the drive train has enough flexibility to work at these angles. However, I do also have a 1.5 inch suspension lift so I do understand that I have to keep an eye on this.

My ultimate goal is to have a flat belly, like 4crawler has. I can get around to more of that work when I move the spare tire to a tire swingout and move the gas tank to the rear.