bobbybouche

Hey Az wheelers,

I really could use one of you guys as a Guinea Pig that would happen to be running a 94ish 22RE with the 3 plug ECU. I think I have a bad ECU or AFM, but the AFM checks out to spec. So if I could plug my ECU in someones truck that runs I can either check it off the replace list.....or replace. Problem is it does not seem to advance correctly. And for the record the TPS is correct, timing is dead on at 5° with jumper then advances to 12° when pulled. So any help with this would be much appreciated. Feel free to PM me.

Thanks Guys

Jason

bobbybouche

Oh well, Thought I'd try!

808nickh

I have an extra 86 4runner ecu that i keep for a spare if you think it might work?

aquaprice

Sorry I have 2 with 2 plugs.

bobbybouche

Hey Guys just saw the posts and thanks. Hey Nick thanks for the offer but I'm pretty sure
the ecu has to be from a second gen truck!

808nickh

No worrys man thought id offer if you find out that it could work let me know

bobbybouche

I'm back guys, do any of you have a spare afm I can plug into my runner? On my other thread InternetRoadkill thinks that might be the issue. Only asking to BORROW as I will get deleted if spoken otherwise Just need to test if that's been my issue.

Thanks a lot Wheelers

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

BOBBY, MY FELLOW 'GREMLIN HUNTING BROTHER'! lol....

No help from me, as I'm 87'realm... But hopefully you'll find one. What about Assyrianrocker? Snowboarder? They're both Phoexians... Not sure if Assyrian is running a 22re... thought he was in a 93-94 4Runner. Snowboarder.... Hmmm, pretty sure he's 97'ish, IIRC. Not volunteering them, just sayin, there's lots of AZ dudes, from what I see.

Does your rig have an intermittent miss? Like a " PUP-PUP-PUP-PUPUPUP-PUP-PUPUP-PUP-PUP " ????? I know, sorry, hahaha... it's still the best imitation I can think of to text, lol. Or is it just timing stuff?

Hope you're well, Bobby, ...

Mark

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> ..... what are you saying, EXACTLY, is wrong? "Timing advances to 12* with jumper removed, dead on 5* when jumpered".... what's the problem?

Far as the jumper,.... you're seeing it bog like it's supposed to.(I would suggest, otherwise, you be SURE the pins in the diag port are making contact... The smog guy could NOT get it to work cuz he was using the left side of the pins... I moved them over and VOILA, idled down and timing checked out).... But yours sounds like it's doing what it's supposed to... so i'm a lil confused.

bobbybouche

I am good Mark thanks, as for misses, none, the 22re runs great in a sense. In a nutt-shell just about everything in the motor and bolted to it is new, I have tested and re-tested all components. Problem is the very bad(lean) ping( mostly under load and highway speeds) while knock sensor is plugged in, right, replace the knock sensor...no change. It does not ping while the knock sensor is unplugged (but you can smell it is in rich mode this way) . So while surfing the Yota Tech forums I came across the air flow meter sweep test which does not seem to be in the fsm. So I test the AFM "AGAIN" and it fails the sweep test. So I'm just waiting for a cheap AFM or for some one to let me plug there's or a spare in before spending any more money on "Second Guess". Would really like to see if this fixes this problem.

Thanks Mark

bobbybouche

[QUOTE=ChefYota4x4;51915551]BOBBY, MY FELLOW 'GREMLIN HUNTING BROTHER'! lol....

No help from me, as I'm 87'realm... But hopefully you'll find one. What about Assyrianrocker? Snowboarder? They're both Phoexians... Not sure if Assyrian is running a 22re... thought he was in a 93-94 4Runner. Snowboarder.... Hmmm, pretty sure he's 97'ish, IIRC. Not volunteering them, just sayin, there's lots of AZ dudes, from what I see.

P.S. You might have just volunteered them^^^^^^^^^^ I'm sure there would be beer involved

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hahahaha... yeah, ooops! Sorry Assyrian! lol....

What part of the 'sweep test' is it failing? Is it hitting under 20ohm at any time? Or over 1000ohm? Hmmm, interested, as mine is reaching 1400-1600ohms at a couple spots. Nothing like that at idle, but then, ... I have no idea where the vane is open to at idle, ya know?

Hope you get one to borrow, just to rule it out. Funny thing, my original AFM doesn't seem to hit over 1000ohm, unlike the one I bought to replace it. But the adjustment screw/plug thing? It was removed and tweaked at some point... And the dealership foreman, from what I remember, couldn't get the right FSM readings. He tried to tweak it to specs, and it just made it worse... so I replaced it. STILL has the same exact 'erratic "pupupupupup-pup---pupupupup-pup-pup-pupupuup" kinda thing! lol.

bobbybouche

I didn't pay attention to the ohms as much as the dead spot in the track. It happens at about 1/5 opening and my guess is that the dead spot is resetting the ecu's fuel curve which in turn would cause the lack of power and lean ping I'm getting. The crap thing about this is if this ever gets figured out, I still have to replace the timing chain tensioner as I got a defected one.

P.S. I think you should make a video of you doing the puppuppuppup-pup-puppup thing without your truck

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dead spot, eh? Like, your sweeping the vane along and 0.000?

I DID do a video on that last page where I verbally described it! lol.... It's an erratic 'pup', lol.

Sorry to hear bout the tensioner... sUCKs to have to pull that sucker off for something like that! (ASK ME HOW i KNOW ALL ABOUT THAT!)hehehe. ESPECIALLY when it's due to some machinists MULTIPLE 'knob' moves, not even a faulty part! lol.

bobbybouche

It didn't drop too Zero but it was a VERY noticeable drop, and from what I understand it's supposed to increase at a steady rate with no fluctuations.

You want to talk about machinist malfuntions this is rebild #2. I took his word the first time that it was ready to assemble and did not check anything, fail on my part. He over-turned the crank and knicked a the thrust bearing surface. So long story short the bottom end would rap on decelleration which sounded like the valve train. When it started to get worse at about 20 miles I torn the bottom end apart in the runner, thats when the trust bearing fell out. So rebuild #2 went to another shop.....

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

4Crawler page;


The E1-FC connection is what triggers the fuel pump to operate via the Circuit Opening Relay
And it is the second tast that really matters. That is when the plate in the AFM is pulled open by the air flowing into the engine that closes the Fc contact with is what leeps the Circuit Opening relay powered up which in turn sends power to the fuel pump.
On test #2, you should see the resistance generally increase as the AFM plate is moved from closed to open, but it may not be in a smooth linear fashion. The resistor track in the AFM is laser trimmed for calibration at the factory and you may see sections where the resistance first increases, the drops down a little before increasing some more. What you want to watch for are places where the resistance drops below 20 or above 1000 ohms (for example if it goes to infinite/open circuit) as that would indicate a problem.
What sort of problem? Well, assume this resistance increases with vane opening and is what tells the ECU how much air is coming into the engine. So, for example, say the resistance is 100 ohms at 10% vane opening, 200 ohms at 20%, 300 ohms at 40% and so on up to 1000 ohms at 100% vane opening. Then the ECU can see that resistance and figure out that say 250 ohms equates to 25% vane opening and can calculate how much air/oxygen that equates to. Then given that much air, it can know how much fuel to add to get a nice 14.7:1 air/fuel mixture. But if this reading goes 100-200-300-infinite-200-400 or something like that, what does the ECU do with that sudden infinite reading? It can't mean there is infinite air, so it probably ignores it and goes into some sort of safe but less than ideal operating mode. In reality, the factory calibration of the AFM is likely more complicated than this simplistic example, but you get the idea. The idea with this test is to verify that the E2 - VS reading does not go OUTSIDE the specified range of vane openings. So ANY reading in between 20 and 1000 ohms is fine and any reading less than 20 ohms or more than 1000 ohms might be an issue.
How can this reading go infinite and why does it not go to 0? Simple, all that is inside there is a piece of circuit board with a resistive strip laid out in an arc and a slifding contact, attached to the vane, that moves along that resistive arc. The farther along the arc, the more of the resistive material is between the end and the contact, so the resistance reading increases. Well, this thin, somehat fragile, resistive strrip can wear out in time, or an electric arc can burn away some of it or whatever. Once that strip is broken, worn away or otherwise damaged, any point past the damage will not be connected to the starting end and thus reads infinite ohms (resistance). And short of some piece of metal or wire breaking loose inside the AFM and shorting the sliding contact to the start of the resistor strip, a short circuit is a highly unlikely failure mode.
So a problem like this is basically a terminal problem, it is not like you can get in there and magically repair the resisitive strip.

*****************************************

Not saying you didn't see that, just asking if it's dropping more than he's mentioning in that highlighted section? Mine does the same thing, but now I'm really more curious as to whether mine is REALLY IFFY since it hits 1400-1600ohms in a couple spots..??? lol.

Best to ya, man... hope you get this sussed, asap!

bobbybouche

Hey Chef,
I have always been bad about writting down and giving info. It's like I write in code that only I understand till I get a response, then I go, well ˟˟˟˟ I really need to clarify better. Anyways I should of stated that I did the sweep test under power, and the power curve is suposed to be steady and a smooth increase with a anolog meter. That of coarse had a swift drop, as for the ohms test exactly where the swift drop off is is a dead spot when testing it in ohms. I do understand what you are saying about the ohms test itself. I also appreciate your input and the fact you brought the thread back to life and pointing out to the other 22re Az trucks guys needing to step up....lol!