Oregon Engine Rebuilders
01-21-2011, 09:32 PM
#61
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I don't know what kind of warranty KB has, but OER claimed to have an unlimited mileage warranty! But after what John told me in the shop, iiii'm not so sure now! He said he'd void the warranty if i wanted another set of the KB's cuz he not going to install them anymore cuz he's had tooooo many problems with'em! My question is whyyy! I'm not totally buyin the whole detonation business. I'm startn to wonder if that just an easy way out for him to say its my fault n not a misconstructed long block by him! DON'T KNOW! As for what grade of fuel to use and what to set the timing at, he never really said. But i've always ran a minimum of 89 but mostly premium which is 91 octane here where i live. I ran my timing at 10 degrees adv. w/ no noticeable detonation and exhaust was not hot to the touch, just warm. John also told me you cant here detonation in an aluminum head. I've asked several reputable mechanics if that was true and everyone of'em said BS. so i'm scratchn my head also because theres other people on this forum that have also had the same problem as me. Is this a coincidence? You guys tell me!
02-16-2011, 09:33 PM
#62
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Sorry to bring up my favorite topic but.........
I have recently confirmed OER uses D&J Rock Products. Which includes the Rings I had major oil control issues with. Since this thread is specific to Oregon Engine Rebuilders I sure would like to hear about any Oil Consumption issues anyone has had with their engines from them.
Thanks
02-17-2011, 11:42 AM
#63
Contributing Member
PS
OEB recommended that I use the oil pan gasket that they provided even though all of the service manuals and a well-respected local Toyota mechanic recommend using the dealer sealing compound instead. Hopefully I will not eventually end up having to change the oil pan gasket.[/quote]
PS I had to change the pan gasket and am now not having any oil related issues.
OEB recommended that I use the oil pan gasket that they provided even though all of the service manuals and a well-respected local Toyota mechanic recommend using the dealer sealing compound instead. Hopefully I will not eventually end up having to change the oil pan gasket.[/quote]
PS I had to change the pan gasket and am now not having any oil related issues.
Last edited by Buck87; 10-16-2011 at 04:13 PM.
02-17-2011, 12:54 PM
#64
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The motor was running rough until at 800 mi I started using 89 octane instead of 87. It was pinging all along but the sound was so subtle that I did not recognise the sound untill it was gone.
Last edited by Buck87; 02-17-2011 at 03:45 PM.
02-17-2011, 02:07 PM
#65
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FYI this is what OER is advertising:
"The following is a list of the performance options installed in this "SUPER-STOCK" long block engine: New hypereutectic pistons and wrist-pins, over-sized IN&EX swirl-polished, chrome tipped valves, torque RV Crane cam shaft with 425/IN and 440/EX lift, high volume oil pump and a rubber lined steel chain guide for the slack side. On top of all that, a NEW, (not remanufactured) heavy casting head, new timing cover and a full set of high quaity gaskets!"
No mention of higher compression.
According to Wiki hypereutectic pistons are: "A hypereutectic piston is an internal combustion engine piston cast using a hypereutectic alloy–that is, a metallic alloy which has a composition beyond the eutectic point. In materials science, the word eutectic refers to a specific ratio of chemical composition at which the constituent elements will form a single, homogeneous phase when cooled. Above or below this ratio, separate chemical phases will form during cooling due to insolubility of one constituent in the other. Most metals are not eutectic, and have different phases present in their cooled form. Hypereutectic pistons are made of an aluminum alloy which has much more silicon present than is soluble in aluminum at the operating temperature. Hypereutectic aluminum has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion, which allows engine designers to specify much tighter tolerances.
The most common material used for automotive pistons is aluminum due to its light weight, low cost, and acceptable strength. Although other elements may be present in smaller amounts, the alloying element of concern in aluminum for pistons is silicon. The point at which silicon is fully and exactly soluble in aluminum at operating temperatures is around 12%. Either more or less silicon than this will result in two separate phases in the solidified crystal structure of the metal. This is very common. When significantly more silicon is added to the aluminum than 12%, the properties of the aluminum change in a way that is useful for the purposes of pistons for combustion engines. However, at a blend of 25% silicon there is a significant reduction of strength in the metal, so hypereutectic pistons commonly use a level of silicon between 16% and 19%. Special moulds, casting, and cooling techniques are required to obtain uniformly dispersed silicon particles throughout the piston material."
"Hypereutectic pistons are stronger than more common cast aluminum pistons and used in many high performance applications. They are not as strong as forged pistons, but are much lower cost due to being cast."
"The biggest drawback of adding silicon to pistons is that the piston becomes more brittle as the ratio of silicon is added. This makes the piston more susceptible to cracking if the engine experiences pre-ignition or detonation."
"The following is a list of the performance options installed in this "SUPER-STOCK" long block engine: New hypereutectic pistons and wrist-pins, over-sized IN&EX swirl-polished, chrome tipped valves, torque RV Crane cam shaft with 425/IN and 440/EX lift, high volume oil pump and a rubber lined steel chain guide for the slack side. On top of all that, a NEW, (not remanufactured) heavy casting head, new timing cover and a full set of high quaity gaskets!"
No mention of higher compression.
According to Wiki hypereutectic pistons are: "A hypereutectic piston is an internal combustion engine piston cast using a hypereutectic alloy–that is, a metallic alloy which has a composition beyond the eutectic point. In materials science, the word eutectic refers to a specific ratio of chemical composition at which the constituent elements will form a single, homogeneous phase when cooled. Above or below this ratio, separate chemical phases will form during cooling due to insolubility of one constituent in the other. Most metals are not eutectic, and have different phases present in their cooled form. Hypereutectic pistons are made of an aluminum alloy which has much more silicon present than is soluble in aluminum at the operating temperature. Hypereutectic aluminum has a lower coefficient of thermal expansion, which allows engine designers to specify much tighter tolerances.
The most common material used for automotive pistons is aluminum due to its light weight, low cost, and acceptable strength. Although other elements may be present in smaller amounts, the alloying element of concern in aluminum for pistons is silicon. The point at which silicon is fully and exactly soluble in aluminum at operating temperatures is around 12%. Either more or less silicon than this will result in two separate phases in the solidified crystal structure of the metal. This is very common. When significantly more silicon is added to the aluminum than 12%, the properties of the aluminum change in a way that is useful for the purposes of pistons for combustion engines. However, at a blend of 25% silicon there is a significant reduction of strength in the metal, so hypereutectic pistons commonly use a level of silicon between 16% and 19%. Special moulds, casting, and cooling techniques are required to obtain uniformly dispersed silicon particles throughout the piston material."
"Hypereutectic pistons are stronger than more common cast aluminum pistons and used in many high performance applications. They are not as strong as forged pistons, but are much lower cost due to being cast."
"The biggest drawback of adding silicon to pistons is that the piston becomes more brittle as the ratio of silicon is added. This makes the piston more susceptible to cracking if the engine experiences pre-ignition or detonation."
Last edited by Buck87; 02-18-2011 at 08:30 AM.
02-19-2011, 05:28 PM
#66
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PS
OEB recommended that I use the oil pan gasket that they provided even though all of the service manuals and a well-respected local Toyota mechanic recommend using the dealer sealing compound instead. Hopefully I will not eventually end up having to change the oil pan gasket.
OEB recommended that I use the oil pan gasket that they provided even though all of the service manuals and a well-respected local Toyota mechanic recommend using the dealer sealing compound instead. Hopefully I will not eventually end up having to change the oil pan gasket.
The pan gasket in the kit is of moderate quality. It works well if the installer cleans both surfaces very well and installs it totally dry with NO oils, solvents, lubes, sealers, RTV's or anything.
IF one uses RTV which is common AND the gasket it will almost always leak. The RTV has silicon which makes the gaket squish out, and tear. Couple this with most peoples love of over tightening and they have problems.
I personally have installed quite a few of these lesser grade pan gaskets with great success. However I prefer using the Factory Toyota Pan gasket from the earlier 22R (they came with a Factory Gasket in the early years)
And the info on the pistons was great.
Last edited by Trainwreckinseattle; 02-19-2011 at 05:29 PM.
02-22-2011, 09:25 AM
#67
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i am installing an OER engine again and very lightly primed the kit gasket with oil and am attempting to only hand tighten all the oil pan bolts... i am a "climber" and feel my fingers can get everything just barely past snug which will hopefully be the 9 ft lbs my torque wrench doesn't go down to... i'll keep an eye out for lost bolts obviously.... i was able to go round and round and round the pan several times always getting the tiniest little turn out of everything until i couldn't do it anymore... but never touched it with a wrench... we'll see!!
02-22-2011, 05:09 PM
#68
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OER are JUNK!!! in dealing with a recent warranty issue, the owner was very antagonistic, telling me i tuned the engine wrong before i even told him what failed or mailed the engine back to him... he then had my engine for 3 and 1/2 weeks before sending me an engine with so much overspray from the powder coat in the head ports that the distributor didn't fit!! they also replaced my high performance keith black pistons with stock rock pistons without asking me or crediting me, even for shipping if nothing else... they never ever called me to tell me they received my engine or found something wrong with it... my pistons cleaved, and one of the mechanics at OER told me that NEARLY EVERY SUPER STOCK THEY BUILT WAS RETURNED FOR WARRANTY!!! i have no faith in my motor... he also told me he "wasn't familiar with top ring end gap", which the piston manufacturer will tell you is the main cause of piston failure... improper install!!
Last edited by desertwalker62; 02-22-2011 at 05:17 PM.
02-28-2011, 09:04 PM
#69
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Hello to all you fellow Toyota Lovers on yota-tech! I just found your forum about 2 weeks ago while lookn for tech info, and i think its awesome! There is a wealth of info on here! Its great! Guess i'll explain how n why i found you guys. About 3 years ago i purchased a 22r "SUPER STOCK" supposed 135hp engine from Oregon Engine Rebuilders. Just under 5000 miles later i had to pull the head back off n take it down to john for repairs. The exhaust valve guide in #2 had fell out and was hangn by the keeper. He told me it was caused by detonation? no damage to the piston or cylinder. It was repaired and then i put it back together. A year and a half later which was a week before christmas this year, on my way to work it started to miss really bad. Turns out the piston in the #2 cylinder was split in half. Again when i called john at OER he said it was caused from detonation. So as we speak its in getting a new set of STOCK pistons 9.7:1 i think he said, not the KB Hyperutectic 10.5:1 pistons that were in it. He told me if i wanted KB put back in he'd charge me $200 and void my lifetime mileage warranty. This engine only has 11,472 miles on the rebuild! My question to anybody who might know, do stock toyota pistons mfg by dj rock contain silicon to help dissipate heat n friction like the KB pistons? Crazy question i know but thats what he told me! Just tryn to find out if i'm being told the truth. I think there's a guy in Northern CA thats a yota-tech member that went through a similar experience with the same company AND motor a few months ago! I totally feel yer pain man! Any comments or feedback would be GREATLY APPRECIATED! I'm just plain frustrated!
09-12-2011, 07:04 PM
#70
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Greetings all!
Well, my son's 22RE Super Stock engine failed last week while he was cruising on the freeway. He heard a loud "thunk" and then zero power. He had it towed to our favorite Toyota mechanic. He looked int he engine bay and saw something laying on the a- arm. One of the rod caps along with a grapefruit size hole in the block! Oh boy.
We removed the engine and found both of the nuts for the rod, bottom half of bearing and one of the rod bolts in the bottom of the oil pan. Personally delivered it to OER on Friday. John was not in. Machinist on duty said he had never seen a 22RE fail like that. Commented that we would be getting a new long block.
Called and talked to John this AM. He said that we ran the engine without oil which caused the bearing to fail. We argued about the cause for several minutes. I then asked what would be next steps and he replied that we would be getting a new long block. John is not a very personable owner and I did not like being attacked in that way. Customer service is not very important to him. We'll see what grade of engine we will get.
Mark
Well, my son's 22RE Super Stock engine failed last week while he was cruising on the freeway. He heard a loud "thunk" and then zero power. He had it towed to our favorite Toyota mechanic. He looked int he engine bay and saw something laying on the a- arm. One of the rod caps along with a grapefruit size hole in the block! Oh boy.
We removed the engine and found both of the nuts for the rod, bottom half of bearing and one of the rod bolts in the bottom of the oil pan. Personally delivered it to OER on Friday. John was not in. Machinist on duty said he had never seen a 22RE fail like that. Commented that we would be getting a new long block.
Called and talked to John this AM. He said that we ran the engine without oil which caused the bearing to fail. We argued about the cause for several minutes. I then asked what would be next steps and he replied that we would be getting a new long block. John is not a very personable owner and I did not like being attacked in that way. Customer service is not very important to him. We'll see what grade of engine we will get.
Mark
10-15-2011, 06:01 PM
#71
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Forgot to give you guys an update on this motor.....
One week later (9-17-2011) we picked up the "new" super stock long block. The bottom end was brand new and he gave us back the head that we had on the original motor. After loading it up and getting the remaining parts and gasket kit, John proceeded to lecture me on how we ran the engine low on oil and that is why the rod cap came off and blew out through the block. He then proceeded to continue his lecture on all of the other things that we apparently did wrong. Since I had the engine in the trailer and I did not feel that me arguing back would help the matter, I did not say anything, except "Thank you" when he was done and left.
Beware all parties who are tempted to purchase one of the engines from OER. It might be a good price, but the quality of parts, workmanship, and most important - customer service, are missing from OER's business plan. Save up a little more and buy from someone else or buy the parts and do it yourself.
Just my opinion.
Mark
One week later (9-17-2011) we picked up the "new" super stock long block. The bottom end was brand new and he gave us back the head that we had on the original motor. After loading it up and getting the remaining parts and gasket kit, John proceeded to lecture me on how we ran the engine low on oil and that is why the rod cap came off and blew out through the block. He then proceeded to continue his lecture on all of the other things that we apparently did wrong. Since I had the engine in the trailer and I did not feel that me arguing back would help the matter, I did not say anything, except "Thank you" when he was done and left.
Beware all parties who are tempted to purchase one of the engines from OER. It might be a good price, but the quality of parts, workmanship, and most important - customer service, are missing from OER's business plan. Save up a little more and buy from someone else or buy the parts and do it yourself.
Just my opinion.
Mark
05-28-2012, 10:17 PM
#72
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I am glad I found this thread. Many of you may know that I occasionally buy and sell parts. In the process of doing so I have met a lot of local Toyota truck owners. Of these I have known of at least 10 that have purchased rebuilt motors from OER. Of those that have, all have had problems, all have had issues with warranty.
Although I have not personally purchased a motor from them I have sold them core motors several times. I have met the owner and the help. Both are crass and difficult krumgens that are hard to deal with. The shop is a disaster.
I can not impress upon you enough to not purchase engines from them based on what I have heard here and from local buyers. I do believe they are not properly rebuilding or testing parts the put into their motors.
If local to Portland there are several companies I have been hearing decent or good things about their rebuilds.
http://www.bnmengines.com/
http://stevesprecisionmachine.com/ (came highly recommended)
http://www.portlandenginerebuilders.com/engine.html
http://www.nwteamyota.com/
http://www.aluminumheads.com/ For aluminum heads only- I purchased one from them 10 years ago with great success and good customer service.
I cant vouch for any of these personally, but only by others reference. I am looking to get one rebuilt soon and will looks to Steve's precision machine as my first choice. If I find other options, i will add them here.
Although I have not personally purchased a motor from them I have sold them core motors several times. I have met the owner and the help. Both are crass and difficult krumgens that are hard to deal with. The shop is a disaster.
I can not impress upon you enough to not purchase engines from them based on what I have heard here and from local buyers. I do believe they are not properly rebuilding or testing parts the put into their motors.
If local to Portland there are several companies I have been hearing decent or good things about their rebuilds.
http://www.bnmengines.com/
http://stevesprecisionmachine.com/ (came highly recommended)
http://www.portlandenginerebuilders.com/engine.html
http://www.nwteamyota.com/
http://www.aluminumheads.com/ For aluminum heads only- I purchased one from them 10 years ago with great success and good customer service.
I cant vouch for any of these personally, but only by others reference. I am looking to get one rebuilt soon and will looks to Steve's precision machine as my first choice. If I find other options, i will add them here.
Last edited by trekkerpaul; 05-28-2012 at 10:20 PM.
08-19-2012, 05:06 PM
#73
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any problems oregon engine rebuilder
im thinking of getting a superstock engine from oregon engine rebuilders ...any thoughts problems ..reliability issues ..is it a true dynoed engine i sometimes drive 600 miles a week highway miles ..anyone have 100.000 miles on one of their suprstocks..hp and torque gain true..
ive heard some problems true /false
ive heard some problems true /false
08-19-2012, 09:08 PM
#75
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Not dynoed. Mine has 20,000 with no problems. If you want a good warranty go locally. Stock engine should be okay for anything these trucks are capable of.
08-20-2012, 12:41 PM
#76
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anyone had experence with ..putneys custom automotive engine ...out of northern california
or PACIFIC ENGINE SALES also known as raptor engines
or JOHNS FOREIGN ENGINES ...
SUNWEST ENGINES ALSO ...THANKS
or PACIFIC ENGINE SALES also known as raptor engines
or JOHNS FOREIGN ENGINES ...
SUNWEST ENGINES ALSO ...THANKS
08-20-2012, 12:47 PM
#77
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IT SEEMS when you call them back and start asking the hard questions most get annoyed ..in my business autobdyand paint ..i could take it, after all its the customers hard earned money and his vehicle..i found out from experence they had gotten previously burned from a poorly done repair..by someone else..i did not take it personal..
08-20-2012, 01:08 PM
#78
Registered User
Every single time one of those OER engines go back to OER for repair and their "lifetime" warranty, the person gets blamed for it and you get a stock engine back in return. Meanwhile the $$$$$ you spent on the super stock engine is wasted because now you don't have that engine.
I've heard good things about those Putney engines on here though.
I've heard good things about those Putney engines on here though.
03-08-2013, 02:27 PM
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Thought I would update this with some new information on my old OER Super Stock. It blew up.....again. I sold the 4runner a little over a year ago before moving to Colorado (needed to handle 10,000ft passes and tow a trailer from Oregon so I bought a Montero Sport 3.5xs...love it). One of my friends ran into the guy I sold it to several months later and I guess the motor started smoking terribly and then let go catastrophically. I feel terrible for the guy but I really thought they would get the motor right by the 2nd warranty. Do NOT buy from OER!!!!!! EVER!!!!
03-08-2013, 02:47 PM
#80
Registered User
I've had my OER engine since 2007. Not sure how many miles are on it at this point. I've had it in a couple different trucks.
It still runs great, makes good power for a 22re and gets round 17-19 mpg in my xtra cab on 35's and 5:29's. Other then it having a very noisy valve train since new I can't complain.
I have not had to warranty it so I can't give any input on that part.
I've beat this engine a few times, dragged an f350 a mile down the beach to the access point in 4low tached out, wheeled it and have had no problems.
It still runs great, makes good power for a 22re and gets round 17-19 mpg in my xtra cab on 35's and 5:29's. Other then it having a very noisy valve train since new I can't complain.
I have not had to warranty it so I can't give any input on that part.
I've beat this engine a few times, dragged an f350 a mile down the beach to the access point in 4low tached out, wheeled it and have had no problems.
