Ruffstuff Toyota Full Float Flanges
04-21-2016, 06:35 PM
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Ruffstuff Toyota Full Float Flanges
We started making these years ago as part of our Fabricated Housing line-up. These flanges allow you to use the spindle, hub, and disc brakes of most Toyota front axles on a rear to make a full float axle.
This is a pair of weld on Axle Flange to mount Front Toyota Mini-Truck, Fj40, or FJ60 spindles to a rear axle (The FJ80 octagonal spindles do NOT fit). The caliper bosses are made to use the FJ60/IFS Truck ('86-'95) calipers and FJ40 or FJ60 vented rotors (FJ80 calipers do NOT fit).
These are made from 1" thick 44W Plate & available for 3", 3.25" and 3.5" axle tube sizes.
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01-09-2017, 12:18 PM
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Re-post from TacomaWorld, one of my employees built one of our axles with the Full Float Toyota Flanges.
I recently built one of our 9.5" Landcruiser housings with the Toyota FF Flanges for my 1st gen Taco. The land cruiser 3rds use the same 30 spline spider gears as mini truck/4runner/t100 8" 3rds, So front inner shafts make great sources for rear shafts. Then on the wheel hub side, I used RCV 30 spline drive flanges, making my shafts a pair of FJ80 Inner Front shafts (also from RCV, and also 30 spline on BOTH ends, stock is only 27 where it connects to the birfield), and that is also the same actual shaft I run on the long side of the front axle. All awesome because 3 out of 4 axle shafts are the same, hubs, bearings, spindles, brakes, are all the same on all 4 corners.
The other awesome thing that worked for my tacoma axle, and I assume will work for others.... I was able to take my factory brake hard line, gently re-bend a few angles, weld some trick tabs on the housing, and completely re-use it and the stock mounting clamps. The threads and general location of the brake fluid line are the same between the drums and the disc calipers. An e-Brake is not something I worried about for now, but you can get stand alone mechanical (or hydraulic) calipers for the e-brake, or a t-Case brake, or a line lock, or any wild contraption you can come up with.
Sealing can be a trick when you are trying to convert an existing housing to FF, because the seal for the axle shaft (stock) is by the wheel bearing, and is also for the SF size axle shaft. There isn't an inner seal at the pumpkin on stock toyota housings, and there isn't a seal location in the FF hub. What most people do is RTV up the spindle seal when assembling them, and then also RTV (the ˟˟˟˟ out of) the splines where they go into the drive flange. Since I was working with a new one of our housings, I was able to use SealsIt seal, which are flexible and will seal from about a 27 to 35 spline sized axle shaft.
I found this on Pirate4x4 while building, and everything I've been able to check measurements on has been correct.
Front Inner Long-Side Toyota Axle Shaft Lengths:
40/55/70 Series Drivers Side: 29.00"
60/62 Series Drivers Side: 31.5"
PU/4Runner (Solid Axle) Drivers Side: 31.5"
80 Series Drivers Side: 34.125"
Using the FJ80 shafts, my WMS comes out at 62.4" and that is about as wide as you could go, you could hit ~63" playing with the inner separation of the shafts, mine have some extra splined length and could be pulled out a bit and still be fully engaged in the spider gears.
Dropping to PU/4Runner/FJ60-62 length would get you down to ~57" WMS, or you could use 1 FJ80, and 1 other... Or go narrow and use a wheel spacer to make up the difference. Or pick a width that you want, and order custom shafts. All are valid options.
Some other measurements I came up with in researching this project that might be helpful for you...
Range of distances (play) between the ends of the axle shafts in the 9.5" 3rd member:
0.86" (~width of Cross-pin in open Cruiser 9.5" Diff) - 1.66" (distance between the inner sides of the spider gear splines)
Distance from the end of our FF Flange to the WMS of a MiniTruck/4Runner Solid axle hub (IFS hubs will be different): 2.55"
Distance from the WMS to the outer end of the axle shaft (with RCV drive flange):3.60"
Making a total from the outside edge of the flange to the end of the axle shaft: 6.15"
I recently built one of our 9.5" Landcruiser housings with the Toyota FF Flanges for my 1st gen Taco. The land cruiser 3rds use the same 30 spline spider gears as mini truck/4runner/t100 8" 3rds, So front inner shafts make great sources for rear shafts. Then on the wheel hub side, I used RCV 30 spline drive flanges, making my shafts a pair of FJ80 Inner Front shafts (also from RCV, and also 30 spline on BOTH ends, stock is only 27 where it connects to the birfield), and that is also the same actual shaft I run on the long side of the front axle. All awesome because 3 out of 4 axle shafts are the same, hubs, bearings, spindles, brakes, are all the same on all 4 corners.
The other awesome thing that worked for my tacoma axle, and I assume will work for others.... I was able to take my factory brake hard line, gently re-bend a few angles, weld some trick tabs on the housing, and completely re-use it and the stock mounting clamps. The threads and general location of the brake fluid line are the same between the drums and the disc calipers. An e-Brake is not something I worried about for now, but you can get stand alone mechanical (or hydraulic) calipers for the e-brake, or a t-Case brake, or a line lock, or any wild contraption you can come up with.
Sealing can be a trick when you are trying to convert an existing housing to FF, because the seal for the axle shaft (stock) is by the wheel bearing, and is also for the SF size axle shaft. There isn't an inner seal at the pumpkin on stock toyota housings, and there isn't a seal location in the FF hub. What most people do is RTV up the spindle seal when assembling them, and then also RTV (the ˟˟˟˟ out of) the splines where they go into the drive flange. Since I was working with a new one of our housings, I was able to use SealsIt seal, which are flexible and will seal from about a 27 to 35 spline sized axle shaft.
I found this on Pirate4x4 while building, and everything I've been able to check measurements on has been correct.
Front Inner Long-Side Toyota Axle Shaft Lengths:
40/55/70 Series Drivers Side: 29.00"
60/62 Series Drivers Side: 31.5"
PU/4Runner (Solid Axle) Drivers Side: 31.5"
80 Series Drivers Side: 34.125"
Using the FJ80 shafts, my WMS comes out at 62.4" and that is about as wide as you could go, you could hit ~63" playing with the inner separation of the shafts, mine have some extra splined length and could be pulled out a bit and still be fully engaged in the spider gears.
Dropping to PU/4Runner/FJ60-62 length would get you down to ~57" WMS, or you could use 1 FJ80, and 1 other... Or go narrow and use a wheel spacer to make up the difference. Or pick a width that you want, and order custom shafts. All are valid options.
Some other measurements I came up with in researching this project that might be helpful for you...
Range of distances (play) between the ends of the axle shafts in the 9.5" 3rd member:
0.86" (~width of Cross-pin in open Cruiser 9.5" Diff) - 1.66" (distance between the inner sides of the spider gear splines)
Distance from the end of our FF Flange to the WMS of a MiniTruck/4Runner Solid axle hub (IFS hubs will be different): 2.55"
Distance from the WMS to the outer end of the axle shaft (with RCV drive flange):3.60"
Making a total from the outside edge of the flange to the end of the axle shaft: 6.15"
