victimeiced

hey guys, i've decided to do an SAS. What axle have you guys thrown in there to replace the IFS? Also, whats a good/cheap locker for someone who just plays in the mud?

Also, when i have the front done, is it ok to drive w/o a leafspring conversion in the rear or does that have to be done right away?

Right now my rig looks like this: 7" lift and 33x12.5's (small tires for the lift i know). After the SAS, i'll have 11" lift and fit 38.5's hopefully.

Cebby

If you are going right to 38's, bypass using the Toyota axle out of the pre-85's and got directly to Dana 60's front and rear.

Why do you want so much lift? Thought about less lift and cutting the fenders?

victimeiced

Well i'll be honest, i'm not a hardcore wheeler, i just like to play in the mud on weekends lol. I'll get flamed for it, but its just the look i want,i want it to be very very big.

with that being said, its cool if people want to flame haha, but it would also be cool if i got some answers too.

Cebby, will it be necessary to swap out the rear axle too? I was under the impression i could keep the rear, throw a 60 in the front and leaf springs all 'round.

yotafool

I'd love to do a rear leaf spring conversion now and a SAS later, but i dont have the tools nor the garage space. Good luck man.

Shane

You can keep it, just be prepared to deal with blown gears if you really get on it.

The Toy front axle has come a long way with all of the improved shafts and birfields out on the market today, but with 38+ tires you still stand a good chance of breaking parts if you abuse it. Lately it seems the common breaking point has moved away from inners, birfield bells and hubs and it's now the stub shafts that people are snapping. Keep in mind it's usually stupid "hey, watch this!" type stuff that's causing it but still.

victimeiced

thanks for the info man, i'll throw 60's in front and back. Also, i don't really know much about the kinds of lockers out. I just really go mud-wheelin', what kind of locker would you suggest?

Cebby

If you can afford it, dual ARB air lockers are a top choice. These are completely selectable so they are transparent on the street. Get a stout 100% duty compressor, (not the ARB one) so you can handle airing up those big 38's at the end of a run also.

Shane

What he said.

shazaam

Dag when I asked about my SAS, you guys told me to get a Rubicon .. must be a 3rd gen hater thing.



j/k

wimpywade94

so how much money do you really have to do this swap cause adding it up im thinking its gonna be a spending mud toy, i know that where i live 60 axles front and rear arent cheap, and when you start adding costs of putting them under your runner that i presume you drive everyday, with dual arbs' onboard air, and rear leaf conversion im assuming over 5g's

please correct me if im wrong.

wade

Cebby

I'm thinking $7G+.

Dual ARB's with regear is around $2600, Allpro swap kit is like $1700, rear leaf conversion is another $750, $300 each for the 60's (wild guess), OBA setup with tank line, fittings, etc. $500, + shocks, + brake line work, various other stuff.

superjoe83

correct me if I'm wrong , but you will need a 60 out of a Chev because the diff is on the pass, side, and its pretty hard to find 1 ton Chev 4x4's Ive seen these axles go at upwards of $1200

victimeiced

nope, its not gonna cost me too much at all. Firstly, i don't have to pay for any labor, cuz its me, my dad and his best friend (who works on axles for a living) working on it. He already has Dana 60's that will cost me $200 a piece. I also already have leafsprings that were from a rig my dad had (no cost). To do the actual conversion of SAS + leafsprings will cost me about 500 bucks or so... i know, im a lucky man for gettin the hookup

Dual ARB is wayyy too costly for me, i'm looking for a $500 locker or so. And i'm not going for a compressor.

Then i just have to sell my 33"s, and get the 38.5"s.

I know its crazy how this SAS is practically just falling in my lap for nothing, its really a lucky situation.

Cebby

Don't forget the hi-steer...

Cebby

Or the driveshaft work...

victimeiced

driveshaft work is under control, but could you explain the hi-steer to me?

Joe

I think there's a better option out there than Dana 60's for off-road and it'll be a lot cheaper. That option is called a high pinion 9" and it's brand new and just coming on the market. It'll give you the ground clearance of a Dana 44 and should be a lot stronger than the Dana 60. Here's the site: http://www.truehi9.com/ The Pirate Board has had several write-ups on the high pinion 9" so if your a member you could do a little searching over there as well. As for lockers, the ARB's are the way to go if your vehicle is also your daily driver but that said, I also know there's a lot of full Detroits and lunchboxes out there on daily drivers.

NCSU-4runner

my room-mate just bought a mud truck, he had a toyota front axle running 44in boggers with a nitrous injected 350 motor, and it held together ok. You only bust stock toyota birfs when turning, locked, and getting on the gas. Anyway, you can do a Ujoint conversion or get some longfields and its not that big a deal anymore. 60s arent needed unless you really plan on getting heavy on the gas in high traction areas like rocks.

I'd get a toyota axle if i were you. With all the new axle shaft tech coming out for toyota axles the gap to a 60 is decreasing.

NCSU-4runner

Hy-Steer

this is the hy-steer i use. All the manufacturer's systems are basically the same. Prices have come down alot recently too which is always good.

Joe

Marlin Crawlers also make an excellent kit and the price is right. http://www.marlincrawler.com/steering.html