Potential New Adjustable Air Shocks...
#21
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Originally Posted by 4RUNR
And what do you use to pump them up? Not many even good quality tire pumps will go above 80psi.
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#22
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
For a long time I never ran mine above 110psi for just that reason. It is very hard to get air pressure higher than that with normal compressors. I've used my ARB compressor to air them up to 100psi, my big compressor at home will do 110psi. I now have an on-board CO2 tank which could go up to bursting pressure, but 110psi is high enough for me anyway. At 110psi the ride gets pretty stiff. At 25psi they are quite soft, I usually run them at about 40psi unless I'm loaded down in back, or wheeling steep trails.
Chris
P.S. Also, how do you measure each shock with this valve to make sure that each has the same amount of air pressure or does it do it automatically?
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Originally Posted by aowRS
Chris,
I am really close to either go the same route you did, or install a set of rear Air Lift bags with an in-cab controller. What are your impressions now and do you have any pics of the install?
Andreas
I am really close to either go the same route you did, or install a set of rear Air Lift bags with an in-cab controller. What are your impressions now and do you have any pics of the install?
Andreas
I have an Airlift setup that has the compressor, guages, controls, bags etc. I'll be selling it for pretty cheap here if you are interested.
EDIT: BTW I just did this mod last week. The hardest part is drilling out the rubber bushings to 3/4" inch. I spent almost an hour just on that.... Besides that, it seems to ride fine.
Last edited by yoda-g2; 06-06-2005 at 08:26 AM.
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Originally Posted by yoda-g2
I have an Airlift setup that has the compressor, guages, controls, bags etc. I'll be selling it for pretty cheap here if you are interested.
EDIT: BTW I just did this mod last week. The hardest part is drilling out the rubber bushings to 3/4" inch. I spent almost an hour just on that.... Besides that, it seems to ride fine.
EDIT: BTW I just did this mod last week. The hardest part is drilling out the rubber bushings to 3/4" inch. I spent almost an hour just on that.... Besides that, it seems to ride fine.
Chris
#25
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Originally Posted by ravencr
So that answers my question then. I was wondering if the factory fill point was cross-linked in such a way that wouldn't hinder flexing, and if the gabriel and Monroe shocks are the same, then I'd love to know what type of valve you go to make them independent of each other, which would help me even more when towing my trailer???
Chris
P.S. Also, how do you measure each shock with this valve to make sure that each has the same amount of air pressure or does it do it automatically?
Chris
P.S. Also, how do you measure each shock with this valve to make sure that each has the same amount of air pressure or does it do it automatically?
As far as the air pressure in each one you just have to open the valve before you air them up or check the pressure. I have found it usefull for tracking down leaks too. By checking the air pressure before opening up the valve and then again after openning the valve you can tell if one side is leaking or not. If you wanted to have a higher pressure on one side you could open up the valve, air up to that pressure, then close the valve and adjust the pressure on the other side with the valve closed. Does that make sense? There is just one valve stem for airing up.
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
The value I used was from Lowes or Home Depot and is one of those cheap water line valves like is commonly used for the little 1/4 inch water line that goes to ice makers in your freezer. The only trickey part is finding the correct fittings to mate the line to the air shocks, but I found those at Lowes too. It helps if you unscrew one of the stock Monroe fittings and take it to the store with you. It would help a lot with your trailer, it's like having a sway bar when they are un-linked.
As far as the air pressure in each one you just have to open the valve before you air them up or check the pressure. I have found it usefull for tracking down leaks too. By checking the air pressure before opening up the valve and then again after openning the valve you can tell if one side is leaking or not. If you wanted to have a higher pressure on one side you could open up the valve, air up to that pressure, then close the valve and adjust the pressure on the other side with the valve closed. Does that make sense? There is just one valve stem for airing up.
As far as the air pressure in each one you just have to open the valve before you air them up or check the pressure. I have found it usefull for tracking down leaks too. By checking the air pressure before opening up the valve and then again after openning the valve you can tell if one side is leaking or not. If you wanted to have a higher pressure on one side you could open up the valve, air up to that pressure, then close the valve and adjust the pressure on the other side with the valve closed. Does that make sense? There is just one valve stem for airing up.
Chris
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Originally Posted by ravencr
I've got first dibs on selling my airlift kit, because I started this thread! J/K, but
Chris
Chris
LOL, Sorry. I just read the entire thread.
Last week I remembered seeing that someone was interested in being able to adjust the pressure from their cab. I figured the compressor I have would be a good idea, but I wasn't sure on selling it then. I decded over the weekend to get rid of it and just skimmed the thread till I saw his name.
By all means sell your first (though I will beat your price by half)
j/k - I'll wait till you dump yours before I post mine in the classifieds, just don't let it go too cheap or I'll have to you!
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Originally Posted by yoda-g2
LOL, Sorry. I just read the entire thread.
Last week I remembered seeing that someone was interested in being able to adjust the pressure from their cab. I figured the compressor I have would be a good idea, but I wasn't sure on selling it then. I decded over the weekend to get rid of it and just skimmed the thread till I saw his name.
By all means sell your first (though I will beat your price by half)
j/k - I'll wait till you dump yours before I post mine in the classifieds, just don't let it go too cheap or I'll have to you!
Last week I remembered seeing that someone was interested in being able to adjust the pressure from their cab. I figured the compressor I have would be a good idea, but I wasn't sure on selling it then. I decded over the weekend to get rid of it and just skimmed the thread till I saw his name.
By all means sell your first (though I will beat your price by half)
j/k - I'll wait till you dump yours before I post mine in the classifieds, just don't let it go too cheap or I'll have to you!
Chris
#29
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Originally Posted by ravencr
Wow, so you're going to make me search for this aren't you? J/K, but I have no clue at this point. I'll try to find them.
Chris
Chris
Last edited by mt_goat; 06-06-2005 at 10:02 AM.
#30
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I know that a new setup runs $102 for the bags and like $187 for the compressor/guages. I havn't really seen what they go for used except for what I paid for mine.
Off the top of your head do you recall what PSI the compressor can go up to? I just got to thinking that setting it up in the rear storage compartment and running it off the rear cig lighter just when I need it might be a posibility... Hmm I may end up keeping mine after all... I'll have to think it through.
Off the top of your head do you recall what PSI the compressor can go up to? I just got to thinking that setting it up in the rear storage compartment and running it off the rear cig lighter just when I need it might be a posibility... Hmm I may end up keeping mine after all... I'll have to think it through.
#32
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Does anyone have a preference between Firestone "Ride-Rite" air bags and Air Lift's version? If so, why? Prices for both of these setups appear to be in the same range.
Andreas
Andreas
#33
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
LOL, it's not that hard to find, they are very common. I should have noted that the fitting I found to adapt the 1/4 inch air line to the shock body doesn't seal by compression like the Monroe fiittings do with the little o-ring, I just used teflon tape to seal the threads where it screws on to the shock body. You can see the fitting in this pic: http://community.webshots.com/photo/...10088111luJhMz The only leaking problems I've had were with the original Monroe or Gabriel fittings that I've used on the passenger side.
Chris
#34
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Originally Posted by ravencr
So where do you mount this valve? Which line? Does it matter?
Chris
Chris
#35
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Chris,
I'm still trying to decide if your idea with the shocks will do what I need, or if I should go with the air bags. Your solution is certainly more elegant/cleaner than air bags. What are your impressions at this point and do you have any pics of the setup?
Andreas
I'm still trying to decide if your idea with the shocks will do what I need, or if I should go with the air bags. Your solution is certainly more elegant/cleaner than air bags. What are your impressions at this point and do you have any pics of the setup?
Andreas
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Originally Posted by aowRS
Chris,
I'm still trying to decide if your idea with the shocks will do what I need, or if I should go with the air bags. Your solution is certainly more elegant/cleaner than air bags. What are your impressions at this point and do you have any pics of the setup?
Andreas
I'm still trying to decide if your idea with the shocks will do what I need, or if I should go with the air bags. Your solution is certainly more elegant/cleaner than air bags. What are your impressions at this point and do you have any pics of the setup?
Andreas
Chris
#37
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Okay, guys, here's the pics you've all been waiting for. I'm very impressed with these shocks so far, and I think I'm going to go ahead and sell my N86's. They worked great tonight with 20psi and 120psi. So, here's the long awaited pics:
Here's a pic of 20psi, which is the lowest recommended air pressure. Keep in mind all I have in my truck is my spare tire, my hi-lift jack, and that's about it.
Here's a pic that shows how close I am to the bumpstop, but it's probably a little hard to see, sorry!
Here's a picture of the mounting location I used, just up on the wheelwell lip, which may be slightly harder for those with 0-1" of body lift, but maybe not:
Here's a pic of the air line running over to the passenger side, but this probably won't apply to anyone, because I've relocated my gas tank. Either way, it's really easy to find stuff to ziptie the line too:
Here's the air line running from the shock up through the little nut head and over to the driver's side:
Here's the driver's side air line routing, same as the passenger side:
Here's the passenger side air line routing:
Ok, here's the picture that tells it all:
That's a 3" difference in height between 20 psi and 120 psi, and keep in mind that 160 psi is the maximum pressure recommended:
That's 27 1/4" at the lowest setting and 30 1/4" at 120 psi. Who's going that kind of departure angle with all those custom bumpers out there??
Here's another bad picture showing the 3" additional inches of height gained at the bump stop:
And to finish off, here's the cheap Walmart branch air pump that easily pumps it up:
Hope this helps you guys! I'm very happy with my purchase, and I'm sure you guys will be too, because it's easy to install, infinitely adjustable, their cross-linked for great suspension travel off-road, and apparently with a little valve they can un-cross-linked to assist with sway when towing or loaded down heavily. How can you beat that for a whopping $70?
Chris
Here's a pic of 20psi, which is the lowest recommended air pressure. Keep in mind all I have in my truck is my spare tire, my hi-lift jack, and that's about it.
Here's a pic that shows how close I am to the bumpstop, but it's probably a little hard to see, sorry!
Here's a picture of the mounting location I used, just up on the wheelwell lip, which may be slightly harder for those with 0-1" of body lift, but maybe not:
Here's a pic of the air line running over to the passenger side, but this probably won't apply to anyone, because I've relocated my gas tank. Either way, it's really easy to find stuff to ziptie the line too:
Here's the air line running from the shock up through the little nut head and over to the driver's side:
Here's the driver's side air line routing, same as the passenger side:
Here's the passenger side air line routing:
Ok, here's the picture that tells it all:
That's a 3" difference in height between 20 psi and 120 psi, and keep in mind that 160 psi is the maximum pressure recommended:
That's 27 1/4" at the lowest setting and 30 1/4" at 120 psi. Who's going that kind of departure angle with all those custom bumpers out there??
Here's another bad picture showing the 3" additional inches of height gained at the bump stop:
And to finish off, here's the cheap Walmart branch air pump that easily pumps it up:
Hope this helps you guys! I'm very happy with my purchase, and I'm sure you guys will be too, because it's easy to install, infinitely adjustable, their cross-linked for great suspension travel off-road, and apparently with a little valve they can un-cross-linked to assist with sway when towing or loaded down heavily. How can you beat that for a whopping $70?
Chris
Last edited by ravencr; 06-09-2005 at 04:02 PM.
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Originally Posted by dragr1
How does it flex at different psi?
Chris