Offroad Tech Discussion pertaining to additions or questions which improve off-road ability, recovery and safety, such as suspension, body lifts, lockers etc
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Locker FAQ

Old 02-01-2009, 06:45 PM
  #81  
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so your saying to keep you truck unlocked so when you get stuck you dont get stuck to far away from help??? that defies all logic................i wheel with a buddy who goes in before or after.............im also in PEI so are biggest mudhole is only like 3 feet deep
Old 02-02-2009, 11:22 AM
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It doesn't defy logic. You simply misunderstood what I meant.

I NEVER said not to use lockers. I said what I said only as a precaution. A locker equipped tuck could possibly get stuck in an area where a non-locker equipped truck can't get to in order to get the locker equipped truck out. And a locker equipped truck is usually harder to get stuck, which often means it's harder to get UNSTUCK when it does get stuck.

With or without lockers, you still need to use caution to avoid being stranded. It takes driving techniques which you have to learn. It helps to have a spotter, or you can get out of the truck to see what you are going to drive through. You can take a stick to test mud depth and find ruts, look for rocks that you might get hung up on, etc.
Old 02-16-2009, 11:02 AM
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hey guys, i'm new to this so i need some help. i have an '07 tacoma 4x4 with the v6, and i was wondering what my best choice would be for a rear locker. I wanted to get an aussie locker but they dont make one for my year. Will a locker for an older truck fit? i want to maintain city driveability while increase offroad capabilities. Thanks for the help
Old 02-16-2009, 03:53 PM
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Too late to trade it in for one with an elocker?
Old 02-16-2009, 03:58 PM
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o just swap out the whole axle forma junkyard and sell you old one!
Old 02-16-2009, 04:11 PM
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ya unfortunately the truck was a gift from my parents who bought it used so i cant really swap it out. I like the idea of findin an e-locker in a junkyard though, i'll have to start calling around
Old 02-16-2009, 04:27 PM
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yeah man a elocker is your best bet.. you might even have some wiring for it already in teh truck...do some research ... i know i priced a eocker diff for about 400 canadian..

alot cheaper than a arb
Old 02-16-2009, 06:34 PM
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He has to swap the whole axle though, not just the third.
Old 02-16-2009, 06:35 PM
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or modify the housing? or cant that be done on newer tacos?? is the elocker a different diff?
Old 02-16-2009, 06:43 PM
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Yep - the non elocked diff has a bigger housing (newer "8.4" diff) than the elocker (old size 8" diffs.)

Might be different on the 05+ Tacos though ... probably need to go to www.ttora.com and search
Old 02-16-2009, 07:11 PM
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well assuming i can find a good elocker axle, does anybody know if toyota or any other company makes a wiring kit for it? Has anybody done this before and know what im getting into?
Old 04-28-2009, 07:40 AM
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I currently run an Aussie locker in rear of my '82 truck. Some of the characteristics I have noticed that you should consider before getting a locker as they all operate on similar principle.

1. The clicking is quite loud, I have had people tell me they think I have a cv joint going or something. I can live with noise. I tell people "its an Aussie!"

2. The Aussie website says that it will reduce tread wear. Not entirely true. I am easy on the go-pedal when turning, and the inside tire regularly spins up until the locker locks both tires, and I can hear the tire squeeling. This characteristic is really pronounced when it is wet or icy. Now, I have very little weight in the back and that may be why it spins up so easily, your experience may be different. Also, the tire spinning is the inside one, with little weight due to weight shift, so the wear is minimal. But the tires never spun when the diff was open.

3. The driveline winds up alot. If you don't know what that means, the tension built between the two tires trying to spin different speeds, puts pressure into the diffs, driveshaft, and transmission (when engaged). There is a resulting pressure inside the tranny, and shifts are harder or slower due to this pressure. I run a manual and grind my gears a little almost every time I shift now. Beware you standard transmisison owners, and keep in mind that alot of the older trannys barely handled the regular daily abuse.

4. The locker locks well, and in snow it works nice, but on ice, the back end tends to slide sideways under acceleration. This is something you really need to be conscious of, especially if you have more power, then breaking traction is easier. Having said that, my truck has very little weight in the back, and this may have added to the problem. We have 4x4's however, so lock the hubs and not a problem.

5. The axle tends to wrap more than before. A traction bar is highly recomended. MY leaf springs bend alot due to the added traction.

6. You are not invincible. I have already gotten into mudholes that I thought I could get through, but didn't. Need a front locker to get more stuck next time!
Old 09-18-2009, 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Napoleon047
When is it time to invest in a locker?
Generally, when you find yourself getting stuck due to wheels spinning freely in the air while its opposite is on the ground not moving.

On what type of terrain will a locker help the most?
While a locker will help in any off-road condition, it will help most in conditions where the terrain is uneven causing a tire to lift into the air; and in conditions where the traction is uneven.

Lunchbox Lockers

What is a lunchbox locker?

A lunchbox locker is any of several brands of lockers that replace the spider and side gears in a differential.

Are these lockers selectable?

No. These lockers are fully automatic, meaning they require no user input to lock them. They are actually locked by default, meaning they are tied together. One side will automatically unlock, however, when needed.

What kind of quirks should I expect?

The locker makes itself know when making U-turns and 90 degree turns at intersections. In these cases, it helps to either coast with the clutch in or to drive with steady throttle through the turn. In more gentle turns and on the highway, the locker will be un-noticeable as it engages and disengages.

Can I install a lunchbox locker myself?

Yes. A home mechanic can install a lockrite with simple hand tools. One person can do it, but an extra pair of hands comes in handy.

How does one go about installing a lunchbox locker?

The locker will come with instructions, the best supplement I know of to these instructions is here.

Should I get a lunchbox locker or save up for an ARB or E-locker?

Well, if you want/need a locker but dont have a lot of money to spend, then yes, you should get a lunchbox. Because of its low buy-in cost, and its ease of install, lunchbox lockers have a lot of bang for the buck. If, however, you have the money to spend on an ARB, go for it. The majority of the people who install lockrites are happy with them.

Are these lockers weak?

Pretty much any peice of equipment has its limitations. Lunchbox lockers do fail on occasion. The most common breakage is a chipped/missing tooth. These usually go unnoticed because the locker continues to function as before. Rarely, the locker will jam in the locked position acting as a spool.
So which is the best option ? i have 97 4runner auto sr5 i need locker cheapest and best for front and rear. PLEASE HELP
Old 09-18-2009, 05:14 AM
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Cheapest and best are mutually exclusive. Cheapest will be an aussie or lockright (lunchbox style). You can adapt to driving them with a little practice, and be just fine. Should be easier with the automatic tranny too.

Best is ARB.

Pick your poison.
Old 09-18-2009, 08:59 AM
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Actually, cheapest would be welded or a spool ... I would add elocker to the "best" option (for the rear only on IFS rigs obviously)

All "traction aiding devices" balance on-road performance, off-road performance, and price/complexity. The only lockers that do not have performance tradeoffs are the selectables. If you drive on snowy streets or someone else drives your rig (wife, for example), this could be a HUGE (perhaps life and death) factor.
Old 09-18-2009, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by AxleIke
Cheapest and best are mutually exclusive. Cheapest will be an aussie or lockright (lunchbox style). You can adapt to driving them with a little practice, and be just fine. Should be easier with the automatic tranny too.

Best is ARB.

Pick your poison.
thanks, how about front if i put locker in and i only drive rear in city will it turn on ? will it be pain to have front locker? or it wont bother me if i drive with rear only and if it does manual hubs is the answer ?
Old 09-18-2009, 12:20 PM
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Someone will have to chime in who has an auto(lunchbox) locker in the front with ADD. I would assume it would be fine, as the add disconnects one side of the diff, which should allow you to have no issues with the locker. Could be wrong though.
Old 11-23-2009, 10:51 PM
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My knowledge about lockers is small. Could someone give me some information about a decent rear locker kit I could purchase (looking to spend maybe around/up to $400, little less/more?) please, 1998 4Runner SR5 V6 Automatic. Thank you.

Edit; my brother-in-law said after a while the Lockright ones get a bit 'clunky' when driving around on the street, but are a really good locker for wheeling. Since I probably will spend more of my time on the road, what will be the best locker to look into?

Last edited by CodyX36; 11-24-2009 at 10:17 AM.
Old 11-25-2009, 02:49 PM
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how has welding held up for anyone?
Old 03-31-2010, 10:58 AM
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I have been driving my truck on the weekends with a welded rear and it really isnt that bad i think it would be worse in a newer truck. if i was to dd it i would go with a lunch box locker or somthing better its worth spending the money on the good stuff. if your like me and break everthing you get in then a spool might be the best bet.

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