Blade Runner

Just changed the timing belt on my v8 4runner.
Thanks for the write up. It helped in several areas (getting the stupid fan clutch removed, for one)
I used the write-up as well as the FSM. You need the FSM for the torque settings.

Here's a few tips to add that might help others:

1) PS pump:
--You do not need to remove the PS pump, just remove the pulley from the pump. It's easier. The only thing that's in the way is the pulley.
2) Tensioner Pulley bracket:
--If you do not have a 10mm hex wrench, but have a set of Torx wrenches, a T-55 torx will work too.
3) A/C:
--You do not need to take the oil-filter off to get the bottom AC bolt off. If you have a small extension, a deep 14mm socket and a swivel, then you can use that to get around the filter.
4) Crank Bolt:
--To remove a stubborn crank bolt, you can prop the breaker bar or handle extension (I used the handle for the floor jack) against the garage floor, and If you have an assistant to help out, you can just have them crank the motor for a split-second while you remove the negative battery cable immediately from the battery to stop the continuous start mechanism we have on some of these trucks. This did it in one try. I suggest giving it a few test runs without the socket attached to the crank so you can get the routine down.
5)Tensioner.
--You do not need a fancy press to get the tensioner to turtle itself back in. I used a large (8") C-clamp, placed the tensioner inside, and hand cranked the C-clamp shut to compress the tensioner.
6)Timing-Belt install:
--In the FSM it suggests that before you install the belt, line up the crank to the timing mark, but also place the timing mark on the RH Cam gear 1 tooth to the left, and the timing mark on the LH Cam gear 1/2 tooth to the left. This is important. When you install the tensioner, the timing-belt will tighten and cause the Cam gears to shift. They will move exactly 1 tooth on the RH and 1/2 on the LH. This is why you line them up that way. What this does is places the marks exactly where they should be after the tensioner is installed.
If you start out with the marks lined up exactly with each other, they will be off when you install the tensioner.
7) Use something to organize your bolts and nuts! This is very important. I used an organizer I got from Sears. It has about 20 different square cups to hold and separate the bolts and nuts. I labeled each one as I took them off. You can also number the boxes, so it's easy to install everything in reverse order.
8) Take pictures of the engine in stages, that way you can reference the pictures during the re-install.



Good Luck.


-Rob

partrige

Maybe I missed it but the harmonic balancer has opposite threads for removal and replacement. Thanks for the write up

Noctivagans

I just tackled this job (as well as replacing all my drive belts and flushing the rad) on my '03 Tacoma (5ZV engine) and used this guide as a general reference. There were a few differences but the jist was the same, and combined with a few other sources, this helped out a lot! Thanks!

Just a few notes I made while doing mine...

1) DEFINITELY invest in the $60 Snap On tool that compresses the t-belt tensioner. I decided to cheap out and go it alone and it was quite a bit of extra work getting the AC compressor and bracket off to get to the two bolts that hold the tensioner on so I could compress it in a table vise. And I had only one shot at pulling the pin, so all I could do was hope to hell that everything was lined up and stayed that way. I imagine you could use a less bulky vise to compress the tensioner in situ, but I didn't have that option.

2) I replaced the water pump and found out that, if using the factory supplied form-in-place gasket, you DO NOT need to use rtv or any other additional sealer.

3) The crank pulley bolt was absolutely the biggest PITA about this job. I had an impact wrench, but it didn't manage to budge it at all. Special homemade tools and a breaker bar? No go. I ended up using a breaker bar on the bolt with the handle snugged up on the frame and bumping the starter. I was super nervous about it, but it worked like a charm. One quick turn of the starter and she loosened right up. I would recommend this technique only as a LAST RESORT, and only if you use a great amount of caution. Just pretend like you're going to severely mess up your engine if you don't get it right, and you should be fine.

4) And lastly, I learned that the crank seal can be pretty fragile. I ended up folding the inner lip back on itself and then proceeded to rip it trying to get it back out. Being Saturday in a small town, my truck laid dormant for the rest of the weekend until I could get the part on Monday. They're cheap ($13), so in hindsight I should have bought an extra just in case, since they're such a critical piece and all. Or maybe I should have just pulled my head out of my arse and installed the first one with a tad more finesse.

Anyways... just my two cents based on my fresh experience. I would definitely suggest people take this task on if a) they have the right tools, and b) have a day (or three) to spend on it. You really get to know your truck better taking on a task like this. And I would also recommend getting the full timing belt kit from volkstoy on ebay. It shipped quickly, and I got everything (drive belts, water pump, gaskets, t-belt, t-belt tensioner and idler pulleys, etc.) for well under $300CDN. The dealer quoted me over $1000 for the same equipment.

sjj62

Very nice write up. I just had this done on my '04 Tundra DC with a kit I bought on ebay from Volkstoy. The water pump had a small leak but the original belt still looked good after 198,000 miles. Still, I feel much better knowing it is new and good for another 100K.

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Saving this for later. Thanks!

kjs250

I have been wrenching for over 40 years.....your "timing belt manual" made this job fell as though I've done 20 of them.!!!
F-A-N-T-A-S-T-I-C !!!
Thanks thanks thanks

a10acboy

Curious. I'm not mechanically savvy so had the dealer do the work. First time at 90k they said they replaced the camshaft seals. This time at 183k they didn't and said they never do. I called them out on the first receipt and now have a refund. I questioned why they didn't replace them, he said the 4wd has a different seal and doesn't need to be replaced. Again, I'm not a mechanic, but why would the same exact engine have a different camshaft seal? Am I truly getting the run-around?

Kmoore737

Nice write ups but I have a question. The haynes manual says on the 05 and 06's 4.7s once you line up the crank and the cams you rotate the crank 50 degrees CCW on the 06 and 50 degrees CC on the 05...PRIOR to installing the belt. That make zero sense to me can anyone explain?? Thanks

Yota_Kid

post #26, if you install the belt with arrows facing forward the crank arrow will land on the crank dot. the belt has 210 teeth and when you flip it around its off by one tooth on crank. also, the oem and new belts have a "fray" on 1-2 teeth, the direction of this fray should match the old belt, and you'll likely see the match with arrows facing forward. this "fray" is not damage, just the way they are made, but it should fall into the gear teeth a certain way, etc.

and if your in there for t-belt, might as well do the crank seal (tip, use very sharp awl to pierce old seal and pry out easily, you may need small hammer but do not go crazy with awl, you dont want to gouge the aluminum). lightly lube the new seal, push in with hand, you can seat tap it with blunt piece of wood, but go easy.

post #48. my 2006 2uzfe has a small cylinder shaped tab on crank timing cover. i believe you get to TDC and then CW it to this tab so that the cams dont move after removing the belt. you should always story-pole the old belt and take pics before removing old belt, then story-pole back onto new belt. just makes things easier, etc.

post #47 - sounds like BS to me.

w0eaj

Outstanding, Zlathim. I just got my '02 Tundra SR5/Access 4x4 4.7L, and while it runs fine, and was up to snuff on maint, what you did here is invaluable. Being "raised" on British cars, I've always "cooked my own", so I'm sure I'll use this. No kidding; very nice work, indeed. TC - Denver

ertmann

Thanks for this!!!

yotatom

what an awesome write up, thanks for posting, I have been thinking about changing belt kit in my 05 double cab, has 59,000 miles but 10 yrs old. would you worry? is you 2000 a vvt motor and does it make a difference? thanks again. tom.

shepherd2111

Great write up ! I have a 2005 with 92,000+...... definitely going to refer to this article when the time comes..... Thanks for the info & pics.

Mhkabler95

Man that was really informative! Great job on adding the tips and all. I really appreciate this because I have the first gen sequoia 4wd with the 2uz in it and I'm sure a water pump replacement is in the near future. The job doesn't seem too bad.

knuckleduster271

Fyi- if your facing the vehicle from the engine bay the cam gears need to be slightly moved to the right- not the left.
As the tensioner puts tension on the belt both cam gears move slightly to the left as it takes slack out of the belt.
If you move them to the left as stated in this thread tou will be two teeth off on both cam gears to the left insted of them lining up as op stated..

mikero

Thanks for taking the time for such an accurate and dertailed POST. The pics helped to affirm the final steps when I did my '04 Sequoia.
One thing the MAY aid someone in the future whose doing a Sequoia... The OP states, "along with a gasket and o-ring for the water inlet assembly..."

I searched two days for the existence of such gasket (of course the OEM/Aisin kit I picked up off Amazon for $152.00 (USD) came with the O ring). I finally read the FSM more carefully and realized that only "seal packing: Part No. 08826–00100 or equivalent" is used on the rectangular part where the inlet bolts line up. I am referring to the '04 Sequoia and posting so others who may be searching in vain will consider the possibility that their particular application may NOT call for a gasket either.

mac79

Very good wright up and helped me with gathering the parts and tools I needed. Due to my location everything had to be ordered and no parts local for my 01 Sequoia.
I have been reading on may different sites that the Sequoia 4.7l is a interference fit engine. My timing belt actually broke while driving and when I pulled it out of the engine it was in three pieces. Installed a new belt and water pump and did a compression test and all cylinders were 190 to 195 psi. Well its running and driving and everything seems just fine.

zombieblitz

Nice write up. I do not approve how you did it though. I am in the process of doing my own 05 Tundra at this very moment. Every kit I looked at also had the crank and cam seals with them as well and you tailed to do them as required in the process. I don't condemn other peoples work so don't get me wrong. I am just wondering why you did not do them as required. Also did you change the water pump gasket that you got with your kit, for the proper tin one that most after market kits do not come with?? I myself am doing the seals, and I tossed that junk paper gasket, and bought the correct one. Save a lot of problems down the road...
Nice write up. And thanks.

My motto is if your going to do it. Do it right the first time.

zombieblitz

It's to allow for Toyo's new variable timing they came out with. It's a pain in the arse to work with. But with the right aftermarket parts, that 4.7 screams.
Mine a 2UZFE in my 05, but that is the reason for it, and if not you would get more advance then you should under load. 30 plus years turning a wrench. That's why you very seldom see one with a super charger on them any more.

ernbilly

Thanks,great write up and all the info. I'm a new owner of an '04 Sequoia with 93k and will be doing the same in the future. I've replaced the whole shebang on my '04 Tacoma 3,4 without any problems and wondered how difficult doing the Tree with the 4.7 was gonna be. If anything it might be easier ... bigger and more room. Thanks again