Yopar's 1997 T100 Build-Up Thread
09-10-2010, 10:46 PM
#21
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What a clean T100, wish mine was that nice. Great job posting your build-up. I plan to go with a Toytec BJ lift. You went with shackles instead of an AAL, would like your thoughts on one verses the other. Any clearance issues on the trail? Again super post, answered a lot of questions, Can't wait for your follow on posts.
98 T100 3.4 auto
98 T100 3.4 auto
09-11-2010, 05:00 PM
#23
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Thanks for the comments guys, the folks really like it...mom can even drive it comfortably and easily!
I went w/ the shackle lift because I didn't like those puny stock ones, an AAL would have worked just fine, but I also wanted a very slight lift, nothing more than 1", even less and that's what the shackles did just fine. We might have to AAL if we end up putting heavy loads in the bed, we'll see.
Here's pics of extending the spare tire holder arms, as the 33" wouldn't fit without it. I just did the rear part, and it sits up there nice now.
Also, I've since added Low Profile lower control arm stops in front, for added UP travel. Down travel is limited by the stock bump, don't want to go too far down w/ the BJ spacers in there. CV angle is just about stock, truck height is about 1/2" higher than stock after letting the torsions down a hair w/ the BJ spacers.
New sway bar end links and bushings were also installed, the old ones were rusty and needed to be cut off. Now it's real easy to unbolt one side for trail flex. I need to post a pic of the OME stabilizer install; it needed a universal bracket on the draglink.
I went w/ the shackle lift because I didn't like those puny stock ones, an AAL would have worked just fine, but I also wanted a very slight lift, nothing more than 1", even less and that's what the shackles did just fine. We might have to AAL if we end up putting heavy loads in the bed, we'll see.
Here's pics of extending the spare tire holder arms, as the 33" wouldn't fit without it. I just did the rear part, and it sits up there nice now.
Also, I've since added Low Profile lower control arm stops in front, for added UP travel. Down travel is limited by the stock bump, don't want to go too far down w/ the BJ spacers in there. CV angle is just about stock, truck height is about 1/2" higher than stock after letting the torsions down a hair w/ the BJ spacers.
New sway bar end links and bushings were also installed, the old ones were rusty and needed to be cut off. Now it's real easy to unbolt one side for trail flex. I need to post a pic of the OME stabilizer install; it needed a universal bracket on the draglink.
12-30-2010, 08:42 PM
#27
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nice truck coming out good i have a question where did u get those shackles from i have a t100 with the procomp 4 inch lift im looking to get rid of the blocks soon and go with 4 inch lift springs and the stronger shackles and that will take care of the rear for now
12-31-2010, 07:02 AM
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"Shackles Rear Wide" from Trail gear, but you have to use extra spacers and a few nice washers to get the offset, as the originals are not the same width top/bottom. See post 51520815:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f206.../#post51520815
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f206.../#post51520815
09-03-2011, 07:51 AM
#29
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Bed sides put on with steel bed frame pieces, galvanized hardware and pressure treated wood. Not much else done to the truck lately, some maintenance like valve cover gaskets, trans fluid change, etc. Driven a few more thousand miles.
11-09-2011, 06:29 AM
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excellent job my friend, i have the 97 version as well, just had a new motor put in last year with 22,000 on it, original had 197,000 but i submerged it in a water hole and those alum heads dont like getting cooled off so fast, cracked both of them, i did the top end rebuild on it and wouldnt ya know, the lower-end blew out, so crate motor i went, was a good experience though rebuliding that 5z. now i hae a vibration issue that i cannot find! seems to vibrate when it gets hotter! i repalced all the u-joints and center bearing on the shaft and had tries rebalanced thinking i lost some weights(i have to have barracudas on my rims or they will fly off in minutes of being on the highway), but im at a boggle, onl time it shakes is when im driving over 55 and then 70 it clams out and then 80 it comes back! any thoughts?
11-09-2011, 06:55 AM
#31
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drive shaft? maybe? try getting the driveshaft reclocked and balanced, has the same problem on my 87 when i first put my motor in, didnt makr how the drivesahft went, and i love the tires man, always loved that arraassive look, next bumpers? 
11-12-2011, 05:23 PM
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excellent job my friend, i have the 97 version as well, just had a new motor put in last year with 22,000 on it, original had 197,000 but i submerged it in a water hole and those alum heads dont like getting cooled off so fast, cracked both of them, i did the top end rebuild on it and wouldnt ya know, the lower-end blew out, so crate motor i went, was a good experience though rebuliding that 5z. now i hae a vibration issue that i cannot find! seems to vibrate when it gets hotter! i repalced all the u-joints and center bearing on the shaft and had tries rebalanced thinking i lost some weights(i have to have barracudas on my rims or they will fly off in minutes of being on the highway), but im at a boggle, onl time it shakes is when im driving over 55 and then 70 it clams out and then 80 it comes back! any thoughts?
05-07-2012, 09:08 AM
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The T100 is a great truck. Great build quality, and definitely worth buying if you need something with a little bit more room. The 3.4 has plenty of power for the size of the truck, but we have not towed anything with it yet. A friend of mine has towed 5,000+ lbs with his 22RE 1 ton truck, so power is in the eye of the beholder.
If you drive only street, the Michelins are good tires. The Maxxis Big Horns are good dual purpose tires with a pretty aggressive tread.
If you drive only street, the Michelins are good tires. The Maxxis Big Horns are good dual purpose tires with a pretty aggressive tread.
