Yopar's 1997 T100 Build-Up Thread
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Yopar's 1997 T100 Build-Up Thread
Doing this build for my folks... It's a babied, 227k highway miles, 1997 T100... SR5 model and CLEAN interior... had recent brakes/rotors, timing belt, water pump, idler arm, drag link recall, fresh fluids in everything... Totally clean underneath... I would have liked to have gotten him down in price a little more, but the truck is a SOLID building platform and has a lot of life in it... even if we end up doing a fresh motor later on down the road...
Plans are
needs an exhaust: Magnaflow and a high flow cat, not sure about headers...
33" Maxxis BigHorns, or Interco Truxus MT, or Firestone Destination MT
1.5" BJ spacers w/new upper/lower Ball joints for safety.. or maybe the 1" spacers...
4.88 gears, with either Detroit or Aussie locker in the rear.. I have the front 7.5" diff already, just need to get some 4.88's for the rear diff install
OME shocks, probably the N98's front, and the N85 rear
maybe some rear shackles if needed
possibly a 1" body lift if needed...
and throw a winch plate on the front, under the stock bumper for the cheap used Warn xd9000i I just picked up
Plans are
needs an exhaust: Magnaflow and a high flow cat, not sure about headers...
33" Maxxis BigHorns, or Interco Truxus MT, or Firestone Destination MT
1.5" BJ spacers w/new upper/lower Ball joints for safety.. or maybe the 1" spacers...
4.88 gears, with either Detroit or Aussie locker in the rear.. I have the front 7.5" diff already, just need to get some 4.88's for the rear diff install
OME shocks, probably the N98's front, and the N85 rear
maybe some rear shackles if needed
possibly a 1" body lift if needed...
and throw a winch plate on the front, under the stock bumper for the cheap used Warn xd9000i I just picked up
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New Tires Installed
Tires installed, stock suspension. Not rubbing yet...., I removed the front mud flaps for clearance, and might have to hammer the pinch weld, or remove some of that plastic. The other option is a 1" body lift.
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The tires $price went up since 2008. Recently there was a tariff passed on all imported tires "from China", Maxxis are made in Thailand, but I think the tariff was something like 35%. So now tires from overseas cost more... in response, the US tire makers increased their prices too, because they figured if the overseas ones cost more, then they should as well....
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Front Suspension and Diff
Work being done on the front suspension. Parts are Sankei 555, the nice stuff from Japan. I have a Downey brace coming for the newly replaced idler.
Front diff is 4.88 out of a '95 4runner with 135k on it, looks nice inside, open carrier. I'm leaving the ADD on, but I am also adding the Aisin locking hubs. Kind of a best of both worlds type of thing. Today I have to trim a brass fitting (90 degree turn to fit under the oil pan) to put in the diff breather extension today, and then install the diff.
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BJ Spacers installed
Front BJ spacers installed, w/ trimming of upper A arm done to clear the spacers.
Downey idler arm brace installed on new idler arm. Maybe later we will get the bronze bushing from SDORI (Frank).
Rear diff, 4.88 w/ Yukon gears and Detroit soft locker. Set up by local shop Advance Driveline.
Downey idler arm brace installed on new idler arm. Maybe later we will get the bronze bushing from SDORI (Frank).
Rear diff, 4.88 w/ Yukon gears and Detroit soft locker. Set up by local shop Advance Driveline.
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Hubs
Front manual hubs installed. These bolt on to the T100 w/ no mods whatsoever. ADD is still intact on the front diff for ease of use during bad weather, ie, keep the hubs locked and drive around (same as stock T100 hubs), use 4wd whenever you need it. Unlock the hubs when you know for sure 2wd is only needed, highway, etc.
OME shocks installed, BJ spacers installed, inner/outer tie rods installed...
I leave the rubber boots on the shocks but I don't zip tie the bottom tight, I leave it loose so water/dirt can easily fall out. Many people remove them completely.
OME shocks installed, BJ spacers installed, inner/outer tie rods installed...
I leave the rubber boots on the shocks but I don't zip tie the bottom tight, I leave it loose so water/dirt can easily fall out. Many people remove them completely.
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Rear Suspension stuff
This is the small stuff that takes up time to find. Spacers for lower shock mounts came from the pile of stuff on my bench, I don't know what they were from but they worked great. They needed 1 layer of heat shrink wrap to fit the bushing nicely. The upper bushing, which there is no picture, uses 2 bronze alloy bushings to downsize to the stock T100 upper mounts, about 1/16" thick.
Driver side shock mount needed to be extended 1" to correctly reach the shock, so 3/16" plate was used to extend the mount. You can also see the flip kit installed. The flip kit is the standard Trail Gear one for all older 4runners/trucks. The U bolts fit the axle housing just fine. The T100 rear axle housing is 3.25". The shock mounts are also Trail Gear. The stock rubber snubber bumpers are re-used, just turn them 90 degrees and weld them to the flip kit plate.
Driver side shock mount needed to be extended 1" to correctly reach the shock, so 3/16" plate was used to extend the mount. You can also see the flip kit installed. The flip kit is the standard Trail Gear one for all older 4runners/trucks. The U bolts fit the axle housing just fine. The T100 rear axle housing is 3.25". The shock mounts are also Trail Gear. The stock rubber snubber bumpers are re-used, just turn them 90 degrees and weld them to the flip kit plate.
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Rear Suspension stuff 2
The passenger side shock mount is just welded to the housing. Full axle drop was enacted before welding to make sure the shock wouldn't limit the drop.
Nice and clean under the axle now.
Nice and clean under the axle now.
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Rear Shackles T100
Stock T100 shackles are 4.5" length. Trail Gear kit for the "wide" shackle works, but you need to ask for the 150mm length shackle bolts, and you need some extra washers. Use the Trail Gear spacers that come w/ the "wide" shackle kit, for the bottom, and add your washers to keep the plates parallel.
I chose the 5.5" shackle plates to get about 1/2" lift out of the rear.
I chose the 5.5" shackle plates to get about 1/2" lift out of the rear.
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The tires $price went up since 2008. Recently there was a tariff passed on all imported tires "from China", Maxxis are made in Thailand, but I think the tariff was something like 35%. So now tires from overseas cost more... in response, the US tire makers increased their prices too, because they figured if the overseas ones cost more, then they should as well....
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So far I have only been driving around town to get the truck done, it's fine on the street, a little clunk when going from D into R, and on some corners I hear the inside wheel chirping a little, but it's fine. I haven't taken it in the woods yet, but I am sure it won't get stuck.
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Originally Posted by yotamonsta
Good looking truck man i like those tires!!!! And FYI the only tire still made in the USA is Cooper, general was the second but the gave up a couple years ago!!!
It's crazy to think only Cooper makes tires in the US. Boy, the politicians sold our country throughout years didn't they.