KD7NAC_07FJ

And now for some more pre-mods;

I got the lightbar from www.fjcruiseraccessory.com, added 4 holes on the underside, grommetted and wired.



I'll be adding 4 PIAA 510's to them once I figure out exactly how I'm going to run the wires. This also shows a close up of a pig tail with waterproof connectors.



And I will be adding a couple of these on the back as soon as I figure out how to mount them and run the wires inside the stock roof rack. I do not like exposed wires. I think I may have to take the rack off and pretty much completely apart to run the wires but hey that's what modding is about right



And lastly, for this post anyway, I found a great set of switches to control the lights form 4x4mods.com.



You can also see the dual battery indicator and switch mod to the painless kit. I was having a hard time figuring out where to mount the kit and then while driving home the other day I noticed the two blanks in the center switch cluster and thought perfect!

With some very careful hot knife cutting and carefully planned holes I now have a great place for the dual battery controlls.

Now if it would just warm up enough to do some installs. Freekin 18 degrees brrrrrrrr

KD7NAC_07FJ

Well I needed a little mod fix so I added the second horn. Freeway blaster $14

The aux-horn lead in the upper left of the engine compartment is tapped off of the main horn lead. The wire runs through the wire run under the support and is grey with a black stripe.

With all my dual battery stuff to be tucked in the corner I decided to mount it behind the grill with the other one.

I took the grill out so you can see better;


It was really easy just a few plastic rivets, two screws and firm but gentle pulls on the snap points.

Pulled the wire out of the loom and chased the grey/black one back into the engine compartment. I was able to clip off the connector and pull the wire out of the loom to where I attached the horn. Trimmed the wire to length and spliced the factory connector back on to the wire, added some heat shrink tubing and put it all back together. Took about 30 minutes.

One word of caution, there is a stud in the center bottom that you have to slide the grill to the left to get off and I found it was much easier to pull the stud out and put it in the grill before snapping everything back together.

KD7NAC_07FJ

I spent today installing the dual battery.

The finished product;


My neighbor popped over and said "my god what have you done to that brand new truck" LOL



Found the ignition hot in the fuse block. Snipped a spade connector in half and it seats perfectly. Also spent about an hour trying to figure out where to put the fuse for the ingnition wire. Why not the fuse box



The switch and LEDs installed. Not to bright - just right.



Place for the relay fuse and I found some Voodoo Blue e-tape



Tomorrow I'm installing the gang blocks, Bandi Mount and the radio. I have 2 - 6 circuit boxes instead of 1 -12. One inside and one outside.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Darn that looks good!
Doing the dual battery though is way beyond my abilities.

I could mount it and all, but not tear up the dash and do all that electrical work.

Can you do a simple dual battery setup where you do not use a switch and have to pull the dash all apart?

KD7NAC_07FJ

Sure - I did that on my Suburban. Just used a battery isolator and everything is under the hood. You won't be able to emergency start the rig off the second battery from inside but I just used my jumper cables and jumped the main battery from the second battery.

The install that I did wasn't hard just time consuming. Once I figured out that the dash and pretty much everything else snaps in and out it was a breeze. The painless kits wiring diagram is pretty simple. If you can crimp a connector you can put it together.

I do solder and heat shrink all my connections though.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I can do the simple one with the isolator.
I did that on my '90 truck I had to pull my tent trailer with.

Wired in the isolator under the hood, and ran a charge line to the trailer plug back aft, and whenever the tent trailer was being towed, my main battery charged the tent trailer battery.

That is all I really need.
Want to wire up the winch and future bass amp 4 gauge wire to the 2nd battery.

I would have to move my 2nd horn like you did too.
I think I can trace that wire, and do the resplice to put the horn up front.

KD7NAC_07FJ

If you pull the radiator cover off it's easy to get at the wire loom that has the horn wire in it. I had to take the washer tank out and undo the whole bundle but I'm just picky about leaving blank wires. You can easily unwrap it from the factory horn to about the washer tank and that will give you plenty of wire to locate the second horn on the other side as the factory horn.

KD7NAC_07FJ

I got the gang block installed today;



and the Bandi Mount;



And since I installed the antenna mount I also installed the radio but since most of you aren't Hams I didn't take any pics.

And since I was back there chasing wires I put in the dual 12v outlets running off the second battery with the 115v outlet;

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Very nice!
I still need to add an aux box for acc.
I had one in the 4Runner.

I like yours better though since it has a cover, will have to look into yours some more.

KD7NAC_07FJ

The fuse box is the 6 circuit version of the one posted in the original Dual battery mod. I put one under the hood for the lights and one in the passenger kick panel for all the internal accessories.

Blue Sea 5025, I've seen them for $26.32 at CLR Marine.

RockRunner1

Sweet build so far, showe dmy wife the dash picture she freaked LOL. I am working on some items for the rear of her truck, once doen I will post them for al of you. Nothing like you are doing, she still won't do anything big bit.............give me time I will get my hands on her FJ

I noticed you do your own powder coating and took a look at the gun, very nice and good price. How much powder are you using on some of these items? Reason I ask, I am looking at doing a bunch of little items but would also want to do a set of wheels. Just want to know if it is cost effective. The colors I would be using would be gloss black and a bright gloss yellow. Any info is appreciated.

HUTCHSTACO

what are you going to do as far as wheel and tires

KD7NAC_07FJ

Thanks,

The kit came with two little envelopes of powder and I've since ordered more from Eastwood.com they have different quantities and every color there is so it's a good source. The little envelope did the Bandi mount and 2 other small items. I didn't expect it to last as long as it did so I was pleasantly surprised.

Oh and unless you have a REALLY big oven you won't be able to do your wheels yourself. My battery box was about as big as I can do myself and I had a bit of a challenge getting it in the oven without messing up the coat. You can powder coat with a heat lamp if you really know what you are doing but I've only attempted it once and I got lucky. I send my big stuff to Craig Craft.

Good news is most powder coat places are pretty reasonable since everybody does powder coat anymore.

RockRunner1

Thanks for the info, I figured the wheels were a stretch but.................

I do have a place here in Denver that treats me right, did a couple of quad frames during my racing days. But if I can get a gun like yours for the price of 5 items being done one color only I rather do it myself and save a few bucks. Not to mention do some stuff for friends.

KD7NAC_07FJ

Well it was supposed to rain all day today so I started working on my switches instead of threading the light bar and backup lights. It hasn't rained since this morning...... oh well, got some work done anyway.

I decided on the left vent cap trim piece next to the steering wheel but after much tinkering I decided I'd have to add a box to mount the switches since there isn't any usable space behind the panel.

So I fabbed a box to match the contours of the trim piece;




After powder coat and switches inserted;


In the rig from the drivers seat;



Outside looking in;



It's not wired yet because I haven't finished that part of the wiring harness. Doubt I'll get it done today since the pager just went off so more later.....

Edit: added drawing

garrett1478

wow that looks really good. very nice.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Wow!



So that is what you were upto yesterday.
That looks great!

Looking forward to see all what they control later.

I need to read up now on how to take off the dash part where the mirror control and my IPF fog light switch is.

That looks like it came from the factory that way Wayne.

rocket

iTrader: (1)

Looks really good.

Have you considered making a batch of them to sell on the forums and ebay?

X-AWDriver

Man,awesome fab job on those switches;very OEM looking.

KD7NAC_07FJ

Thanks guys

I have considered that, how much interest is there? I still have the pattern and dimensions and it was a pretty easy fab since I got my new box & pan brake.

The bottom "tube" comes off separate from the dash otherwise you need to take off the "end cap", bottom plastic panel and the metal shield under it and you can access just about anything. it's pretty easy, if I remember correctly there are only a couple of screws in each piece and the rest is snap together.