Are You A Synner??
#1
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Are You A Synner??
just curious on who runs FULL synthetics in their motors and differentials?? i switched at 52k to mobil 1 and now have 85k miles on my taco 4x4 v6.. i like the stuff............. anyone have concrete proof like pics and etc that justifies using full synthetics in regular vehicles like ours??
#3
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i was told by numerous mechanics that NOT to run synthetics in differentials bc of the pressure and etc... just curious on your takes.. i just put full syn in all of my diff's including the t-case..
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If surfaces need to be lubricated, I believe in lubricating them with the best stuff available.
I am not sure what "pressure" you are referring to, but synthetics lubricate better in every way and more resistant to breakdown in every way. No matter what the effects of this "pressure", synth will handle it better, so that argument makes no sense.
I am not sure what "pressure" you are referring to, but synthetics lubricate better in every way and more resistant to breakdown in every way. No matter what the effects of this "pressure", synth will handle it better, so that argument makes no sense.
#5
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I have to fully ditto WATRD.
synthetics lubricate better in every way. This is just how it is, the only reason i would say to go with dinno oil would be if you have a oil leak. The good old fasion oil tends to help with leaks better. Otherwise synthetic all the way!
synthetics lubricate better in every way. This is just how it is, the only reason i would say to go with dinno oil would be if you have a oil leak. The good old fasion oil tends to help with leaks better. Otherwise synthetic all the way!
#6
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what glocks you shoot?? i bought a g19 or something like that (9mm mid size) a few years ago and love that thing... i got the 9 so my lady can shoot though she is still scared of it......... ok got off subject
-as far as the mechanics go they showed my pics that they took of full syn and reg diff oil at 40k miles. from the pic it did look like the syn seperated and the dino just got black looking and kept the same density........ to me it wasnt enough to go by and swithced to full syn in the diff's
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#9
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Could not figure out if I had posted that in this thread of not for a sec?
I have had/used a few of them but my fav would have to be the Model 21 in .45 ACP. I just like the hitting power of the .45 over the 9mm. The only 9mm I would like to have is the Military and police only version that can be full auto and has a 32 round extended mag. Now back on topic?
#10
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Synthetic really shows it's worth on turbo cars where the turbo will generate heat that is over 400% hotter than the engine temp and the oil must be stable enough to be going between the extemes since turbo tolerate very little when it comes to excessive heat spikes and synthetic oil won't breakdown as quickly (not even close) as dino oil will. Also go out when the temp is -20 and pour out some synthetic and then some dino oil and if you live in very cold weather you'll use synthetic by what you see.
I drag raced,autoxed,ice raced my modded Eclipse for 8 seasons and 90,000 miles of hard driving and it still ran high 12s (@5800ft asl) when I sold it at 117k on the odo and it was always ran on M1 syn changed every 3500 miles. It had a few leaks toward the end of my ownership but the crankshaft had minimal play in it the last season I raced it.
My Runner isn't driven as hard or puttign out 350hp so I go 9k between changes with syn in it and I use RedLine synthetics in the gearboxes just like I did on my DSM.
I drag raced,autoxed,ice raced my modded Eclipse for 8 seasons and 90,000 miles of hard driving and it still ran high 12s (@5800ft asl) when I sold it at 117k on the odo and it was always ran on M1 syn changed every 3500 miles. It had a few leaks toward the end of my ownership but the crankshaft had minimal play in it the last season I raced it.
My Runner isn't driven as hard or puttign out 350hp so I go 9k between changes with syn in it and I use RedLine synthetics in the gearboxes just like I did on my DSM.
#11
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full synner. i did used oil analysis for M1 in my taco at 5000 miles (filter change only) and 10000 miles (oil and filter change). the lab reports showed wear (metals) to be below average for my engine block, and lubricity to be holding high enough even at 10000 miles. i could probably go to 15000 miles, but ten is easy enough for me to deal with.
i recently had to replace my taco cylinder head (cracked) and noticed that all of the original scoring was still there. i used standard oil for 85000 miles and then M1 up to the current 115000 miles. i'd say both oils were doing a good job, but the synthetic is probably doing a better job and over longer drain intervals.
... not to mention conditioning seals and eliminating sludge.
i guess i should add that i used Mobil synthetic gear oil all around, and have not noticed any detrimental affects. for the record, i even loaded the grease gun with Mobil synth. that might be going overboard.
i recently had to replace my taco cylinder head (cracked) and noticed that all of the original scoring was still there. i used standard oil for 85000 miles and then M1 up to the current 115000 miles. i'd say both oils were doing a good job, but the synthetic is probably doing a better job and over longer drain intervals.
... not to mention conditioning seals and eliminating sludge.
i guess i should add that i used Mobil synthetic gear oil all around, and have not noticed any detrimental affects. for the record, i even loaded the grease gun with Mobil synth. that might be going overboard.
Last edited by bktaco; 04-10-2007 at 12:44 PM.
#12
I'm a fan of synthetics and am in the process of swapping my 4Runner over. I just did M1 EP for my first oil change at 93k. Hopefully someone changed the oil before that!
I'll be swapping the diffs over sometime this spring.
For the auto tranny I'm sticking with Toyota brand and having them do the flushes.
In my old '95 Toyota PU (3.slow) I ran synthetics for 120k+ miles. Sold the truck with zero engine problems. I use M1 in my wife's WRX wagon and once I rebuild the engine on my '86 BMW 535i, that will have synthetics, too.
I'm a synner.
MadCityRich
2002 4Runner Ltd
I'll be swapping the diffs over sometime this spring.
For the auto tranny I'm sticking with Toyota brand and having them do the flushes.
In my old '95 Toyota PU (3.slow) I ran synthetics for 120k+ miles. Sold the truck with zero engine problems. I use M1 in my wife's WRX wagon and once I rebuild the engine on my '86 BMW 535i, that will have synthetics, too.
I'm a synner.
MadCityRich
2002 4Runner Ltd
#14
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The Runner I just got has 145k miles on it... I think I might switch over to synthetics on the next oil change. This thread and the seafoam thread has me ready to go ahead and do a service on it now.
Last edited by fenrisx; 04-10-2007 at 05:48 PM.
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Engine - M1 since 30k
Tranny - Just drain tranny pan at oil changes and fill with regular stuff
Rear Diff - Regular stuff - had it on hand. Syn upon next change
T-Case - Mobil Syn (got a bunch of bottles at a flea market for $3 per)
Front Diff - Have not gotten that far yet
Tranny - Just drain tranny pan at oil changes and fill with regular stuff
Rear Diff - Regular stuff - had it on hand. Syn upon next change
T-Case - Mobil Syn (got a bunch of bottles at a flea market for $3 per)
Front Diff - Have not gotten that far yet
#16
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engine- mobile 1 syn for the past 30k miles
tranny-- valvoline high mileage and or yota factory stuff
front and rear diff-- mobile 1 syn
t-case- just basic gear oil 75-90-- i dont use it often at all so that will do
tranny-- valvoline high mileage and or yota factory stuff
front and rear diff-- mobile 1 syn
t-case- just basic gear oil 75-90-- i dont use it often at all so that will do
#17
Mobil1 everywhere except the slushbox because it is already trashed (O/D Planetary failure). When I get a new (at least new to me) tranny in it will get Mobil1 as well.
For manual gear boxes running GL-4, I like redline MTL.
AN interesting side note regarding oils in other, older applications:
Go to page 7 of the PDF: Locobrits January 2007
For manual gear boxes running GL-4, I like redline MTL.
AN interesting side note regarding oils in other, older applications:
Go to page 7 of the PDF: Locobrits January 2007
#18
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Im running Dyno everywheres. Never had a problem with it, so im not going to change. I have two very good mechanic buddies who have been doing it their entire lifes, saying that synthetic is overpriced and not shown to be any better.
As long as you change your oil, thats all that matters.
As long as you change your oil, thats all that matters.
#19
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That's a little like saying; "You can dump anything in your gas tank, as long as it's flammable."
If dino juice works for you, fine... it's your engine, but that should not be taken to imply that it's providing the same level of lubrication that synth would be.
Oil changes are critical, but synth needs to be changed out less frequently and lubricates better during it's service.
If dino juice works for you, fine... it's your engine, but that should not be taken to imply that it's providing the same level of lubrication that synth would be.
Oil changes are critical, but synth needs to be changed out less frequently and lubricates better during it's service.