Designsbyme

Most of you know I blew my engine about a month ago and I am in the process of putting in my new one. I was quoted 7k :cry: to get it fixed at the stealership and I will be fixing it for $3,500. I figure I should treat myself. My buddy and I are tired of working on the engine and we need something fun to do.

Here is what I was thinking about…
Front:
1.5" Lift, Ball Joint Spacers
http://home.san.rr.com/sdors/SDORS%20spacer%20page.htm
Shocks: Rancho RS9000X
http://www.gorancho.com/Flash_RS9000X.stm
Sway away 25mm Torsion Bars
http://www.swayaway.com/PowerBarz%20frameset.htm

Rear:
Rear Coils: Downey Coils
http://www.downeyoff-road.com/Suspen...ents/index.htm
Shocks: Rancho RS9000X
http://www.gorancho.com/Flash_RS9000X.stm

My question is, what else do I need to complete this system?
Should I just go the lame way and buy a kit? Like this pro comp lift?
http://www.4x4cyberstore.com/website...p/pcs_toy.html

And yes, I have done lots of research and I have read through a lot of the Yotatech threads. I would just like some current opinions and advice.

One more thing… My Runner is a 95 Auto… 0 miles

WSU4runner

Skip the torsion bars, they'll make your truck ride like crap. You'll be fine with just the ball joint spacers and they'll make it ride a lot nicer.

I've been looking at the Rancho shocks, they're running a good deal at 4wheelparts.com, buy 3 get 1 free.

WSU4runner

Oh yeah the ProComp lift will cost much more than they posted on that site. The one listed is for the Pickup's. The one for the 4runner will probably be over a grand. I say skip that, most people here will tell you the same.

If you want more lift try fj80 coils in the rear or get the Downey spacers along with the coils. That'll give you around 3".

Good luck.

Designsbyme

Is there anything else I would need to lift the front?
Also, any idea what sizes shocks I should use?
Last thing, will I need any breakline adjustments?

fooddude

Actually it is for pickups and 4runners as it says on the top. The catch is it says in the fine print at the bottom of it, it says it doesnt come with the rear coils, and that is why it is so cheap.

AgRunner06

The Downey kit comes with an extended brake line. I've heard that with just the coils and stock shocks that you won't need the brakeline because the shocks will limit your travel. If you get longer shocks and/or spacers than yes, you will need the brakeline.

I'm not too sure about the other stuff. But I can say that I really like my Downey HD coils and quite a few others will say the same.

doink

probably need to extend the brake lines. and that panhard drop bracked would be good . i wish i didnt go the "lame way"

Designsbyme

How do you like your pro comp lift? If you had to do it again, what would you do different?

Flygtenstein

If I were building something to wheel and drive but keeping IFS and staying on 33's, I would do as follows, which is in another thread also.

1" bodylift
BJ spacers
Cruiser rear coils
Panhard drop
Long rear shocks, like the 5009
Air shocks or some others in front
No swaybar or disconnects of some sort

The BJ spacers have loosend up my front and allowed me to bottom the suspension again.

The cruiser coils are cheap, but will like give too much lift unless you have a heavy rear like I do.

I have not yet messed with air shocks, so I cannot comment. Most others seem pleased, but you would have to run down the right length with the BJ spacers.

Mike, I usually come down hard on the IFS lifts. Apologies if you have been guilted into the opinion you expressed. If I was part of you drawing that conclusion which required the use of lame, I am sorry. Did the ARB make it in yet?

Brendan

if i may jump in...

i have a torsion bar lift in my truck right now. i didn't do the lift myself and i wish i never had it done at all. the truck feels like the entire suspension system is non-existant. can i drop the torsion bar back to original and use the ball joint spacer option and have the same lift, but with a smoother ride? i hadn't even heard of ball joint spacers when i was looking into a front lift.

WSU4runner

The ball joint spacers will give 1.5" of lift. You can uncrank your torsion bars back to stock.

I don't think this will mess up anything, you'll have a better ride and 1.5" of added flex

WSU4runner

The lift is for pickups, as pictured on the site, you'll pay another $200 or so to get the coils and whatever else comes with the 4runner lift.

doink

yeah, i mean, the kit is fine for what i do, but in retro spect i see how its lame. it did cost an arm and a leg, and if i knew my crap like how i do now, id prolly gone the way you did or something along those lines. no harm done
and about the arb, its not in yet. the tech had a family member die, so it had to be pushed back till next week.



like i said, its fine for me. in retrospect, i woulda gone with cruiser coils, etc. could have saved money and gotten arbs in sooner

Dan_90SR5

Alright, I had thought about going with a SAS, but I think that I'm going to just do the easy stuff for now and see how I like. Yeah, spend alot more in the long run but maybe not if this is all that I need to satisfy me.

I have my own ideas for the rear that I think will suit my taste better, but maybe I need more info before I decide that. Now for my many questions that might help in my decision process.

What is the spring rate and height of the Cruiser springs? What year Cruiser?

The BJ spacer will lift the Runner 1.5" correct? Can I still make minor adjustments with the T-bars if needed to level the Runner?

And finally is the 1" bodylift necessary to clear 33" tires?

Is there alot of body roll on the street without sway bars? This will be a dual purpose vehicle and will see alot of street time too.

I have 15x10 wheels with 4" back spacing......will I need spacers so that my tires do not rub with 33x12.50s? (This one isn't as important because this issue can be handled after the truck is back on the road.)

I ask all of these questions because I'm ready to start ordering and need all of the info that I can get. I also don't want my 33" tires to look too small because the truck has been lifted too high.

Thanks in advance for any and all info that you can give me on this. This isn't the route that I wanted to go with my Runner, but I need it on the road soon.

Flygtenstein

A little coil discussion:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27052&highlight=cruiser+coils

Some ball joint spacer thoughts:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29218&highlight=cruiser+coils

I thought I saved a long response to one of these questions, but I cannot find it. I know I PM'd someone a lot more than I want to type now.

Designsbyme

After some research and some advice from a good friend, I think I'll be holding off on the suspension. If I can just wait three more months, I can get an SAS and never have to upgrade.Thanks all for the info. I hope that soon I can post lots and lots of pictures of my buddy and me installing the SAS.

Designsbyme

If I were you I would wait. It will be better in the long run.

Flygtenstein

Solid axles sure look great on the internet, but there is a lot of cheap wheeling that can be done with the set-up I outlined. What I have, in total, is maybe $500 and runs 33's easy. Spend another $200 for a lunchbox rear or $800 for an ARB rear and you are handling a lot of trails. Regearing is big bucks, but the rear will likely stay when the swap comes.

Locked IFS trucks will spank open diff solid axles all day. I was there, but if you want it on tape the CO4RJ DVD has several hours of it.

Dan_90SR5

I'm just going to go with Flygtenstein advice for now and see how it goes. I don't want to really, but it just makes sense right now. I have to get new tires and with as much as tires cost I'd hate to buy tires and then end up going SAS and having to buy new ones. At least with this set-up, I know I will be able to wheel alot of places until I wear the tires out. Then I can decide what to do from there. Which could possible be to stay where I'm at.

I have one more question and I know the responce, but could I clear 35" tires with this set-up and a 3" bodylift? I know, we all had going the cheap way out like that, but is it possible?

-Dan

And......you never answer me about streetability without sway bars. My Runner will see alot of street driving and hopefully alot of offroad too.

Robinhood150

SAS's on the internet are over rated. If you have a bone stock truck and the only lift options you know about are from searching the threads here, then you don't need to SAS, yet. IFS forces you to actually learn the technical skills necessary to become a GOOD driver and wheeling is all about the driver. Once you gain those skills and know the limits of your truck, then SAS can and should be done.

Like adrian said, the CO4RJ dvd shows perfectly how locked 2nd and 3rd gens walked all over a solid axle, open diff'd truck. The setup adrian outlined above is one of the cheapest ways to properly lift a truck for moderate trails. With that suspension setup you can run the rubicon (barely, but it's possible).

Baby steps. You gotta learn to walk before you can crawl.