Well, I'm the newest member of the blown head gasket club.
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Well, I'm the newest member of the blown head gasket club.
I've spent the last few days tearing her down (I don't qualify for the V06 campaign). What kind of head gaskets should I use this time around? Tim from DOA suggested I use felpro gaskets and spray them with copper gasket sealer. Does this sound like a good idea? Also, is it worth it to spend $250 on doa studs? I've heard that part of the problem with these engines blowing gaskets has to do with the oem head bolts.
I plan on putting in a sound blanket on the firewall. I'm going to polish and slightly port the heads. I'm going to get rid of the clutch fan and go electric, and do the isr mod. What else should I do while it's apart?
It looks like the failure was at the #1 cylinder. How do I go about cleaning the tops of the pistons? Is there any special way or certain chemical to use, or should I just go at it with the scraper?
Would it be safe to gently finish cleaning the bottom of the heads with a soft wire wheel on a grinder? Please throw some suggestions at me. Thanks guys.
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Can't answer your mechanical questions, nor can I say if the DOA's are worth the $$. But I CAN tell you to replace the studs with new ones. I don't care how many times the Dealer says it's OK, but it just makes sense with these torque-to-yield type studs. Seems that's how they maintain the 'hold' on the head...the bolt is actually tightened untill it stretches. After that, it aint never coming back to spec. I'd offer that, in applications which re-use the studs, this is what causes repeat business for the shop.
Up here, each bolt costs $16.00 (OEM) and I believe there are 14 of them to be replaced. Either way (Dealer or DOA) it's gonna be $$$.
Up here, each bolt costs $16.00 (OEM) and I believe there are 14 of them to be replaced. Either way (Dealer or DOA) it's gonna be $$$.
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Originally Posted by yotafool
what about arp head bolts and studs? dunno if they are any cheaper
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I would go with head studs and OEM (since its been redesigned) head gasket.
Man that head gasket is toast. Even when I did the HG recall for the Ford 3.8 V6 engine, they didn't look as bad as that one.
Man that head gasket is toast. Even when I did the HG recall for the Ford 3.8 V6 engine, they didn't look as bad as that one.
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I used very very fine steel wool and polishing compound.
When I did the head gasket on my car I turned the crank with a breaker bar to TDC one at a time useing a light polishing compound and very fine steel wool I cleaned the tops of the pistons till they were shiney in just a few minutes each! Then I wiped them off clean, and when I turned it so they were down I wiped the cyls with clean oil and coverd them up. I say stick with OEM gaskets and new bolts or studs, its a royal PIA to do this job!
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Definitely do NOT re-use the bolts. Dealer says they are not TTY, but I think they are full-o-crap. If you need ARP studs, you can get them from DOA Racing and I believe http://www.engnbldr.com/. Ted, who owns Engnbldr is a GREAT guy with great reputation and prices. He's the first place I'd go for anything.
I installed the DOA ported heads on a 94 - it did wake up the engine, but only above 3500RPM's. Not to take anything away from Tim, as I was happy with the service and quality of work, but I'd likely not do it again... With shipping, that is about 1/3 the cost of a 3.4 swap.
I installed the DOA ported heads on a 94 - it did wake up the engine, but only above 3500RPM's. Not to take anything away from Tim, as I was happy with the service and quality of work, but I'd likely not do it again... With shipping, that is about 1/3 the cost of a 3.4 swap.
#10
Originally Posted by HondaTec521
Get that coolant outta the cylinders,that will damage the walls .then hose it down with wd40 or motor oil.
#11
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i don't think it'd hurt anything, but i don't really group wd40 as too harsh of a solvent. that said, motor oil is a much better idea.
i cleaned the carbon out of my combustion chambers with a brass brush. didn't seem to scratch the aluminum and it worked very well. with the pistons i'd agree with the last guy that said turn them to TDC and polish them up with either steel wool or a soft metal brush.
i cleaned the carbon out of my combustion chambers with a brass brush. didn't seem to scratch the aluminum and it worked very well. with the pistons i'd agree with the last guy that said turn them to TDC and polish them up with either steel wool or a soft metal brush.
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wd40 plus a green brillo pad (the nylon material) will work and you won't get as much metal shavings as with a brass brush or metal abrasive tools. WD40 should be ok, just drain the oil, fill, run it a while, drain again to get the WD out and from killing gaskets. Hats off man that is a hell of a job, I am not looking forward to doing that on mine. BTW has the snow melted yet?
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Originally Posted by ChickenLover
(I don't qualify for the V06 campaign).
Why didn't you qualify?
#14
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I only have a few things to add as this discussion/problem is so common. First of all, absolutely use new bolts, no question about it what so ever. As for the sealant, I personally use Permatex red. It's in a spray can and works super well for head gaskets. I also use fingers width of teflon sealant on the threads about 1/2 up from the bottom. This prevents any seepage that might occur. On the cam seals (the outside of course) and end caps I use aviation sealer. Good luck. ChickenLover, is that a JD Combine your standing on? Not that I was only admiring the combine. LOL.
-Wrench
-Wrench
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Originally Posted by socal98runner
Why didn't you qualify?
Wrench, That isn't me on the combine. I'm about 100lbs heavier and a man. I can't imagine that little girl tearing an engine apart.
I am having a hard time deciding whether or not to buy doa heads and cams. I can't afford it right now but I could put them on a card. I just don't see myself taking this thing apart like this again. So perhaps I should just do it.
Is anyone absolutely certain that the OEM head gaskets have been redesigned? I would hate to go that route and end up doing this job again.
Thanks for all the input.
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I am certain that the OEM gaskets have been re-designed at least twice. The first re-design used a similar material (developed to move away from aesbestos-based gaskets) . The second re-design incorporated a stiffer ring to prevent that nasty blow out.
Your '95 probably doesn't quallify because it was manufactured after Oct '94, when the "improved" gaskets became available. To be sure, do a search on some of my HG posts, the info in them is pretty much 'direct from the source' and current as of the post dates.
Your '95 probably doesn't quallify because it was manufactured after Oct '94, when the "improved" gaskets became available. To be sure, do a search on some of my HG posts, the info in them is pretty much 'direct from the source' and current as of the post dates.
#17
Originally Posted by wrenchmonster
I only have a few things to add as this discussion/problem is so common. First of all, absolutely use new bolts, no question about it what so ever. As for the sealant, I personally use Permatex red. It's in a spray can and works super well for head gaskets. I also use fingers width of teflon sealant on the threads about 1/2 up from the bottom. This prevents any seepage that might occur. On the cam seals (the outside of course) and end caps I use aviation sealer. Good luck. ChickenLover, is that a JD Combine your standing on? Not that I was only admiring the combine. LOL.
-Wrench
-Wrench
#18
Originally Posted by Blair
...Your '95 probably doesn't quallify because it was manufactured after Oct '94, when the "improved" gaskets became available. To be sure, do a search on some of my HG posts, the info in them is pretty much 'direct from the source' and current as of the post dates.
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LOL. Hey CL, well nice picture anyway!!! Hey Yoter, combines are hot!! I'm strictly an IH man when it comes to ag equipment though.
In any case.... My understanding of the head gasket deal is that toyota will only do it once. In my case, the former owner did take part in the campaign and actually had the short block replaced. Cool!! But it also made my yota out of contention for another head gasket recall this time around. Still the recall should cover a vehicle regardless of mileage. What years it covers I'm not sure.
I had a dead hole on #4 and turns out after removal of the heads, #1 was just about to blow the head gaket... ring was broken at about the 2 o'clock position. I've heard all sorts of comments about which type and brand of head gasket to use. In my opinion it shouldn't make too much difference as long as it is made to meet OEM spec requirements. I ended up ordering a set from enginebldr (sp?) and the set I received was very nice and of very high quality. I think "rock auto" made them. I had no problems with any of the gaskets supplied and I also ordered the head bolts from him too.
The rest of the parts I used were ACDelco as I am a GM tech and get a good discount on their stuff. I also went with new standard cams, which my machine shop ordered. Not sure of the brand there, but they were very nice also (I used a good reputable machine shop).
Yes the job is truly a PITA. Even having all my tools and a fully equipped shop the job took me 18 hrs from start to finish. Good luck on your job.
-Wrench
In any case.... My understanding of the head gasket deal is that toyota will only do it once. In my case, the former owner did take part in the campaign and actually had the short block replaced. Cool!! But it also made my yota out of contention for another head gasket recall this time around. Still the recall should cover a vehicle regardless of mileage. What years it covers I'm not sure.
I had a dead hole on #4 and turns out after removal of the heads, #1 was just about to blow the head gaket... ring was broken at about the 2 o'clock position. I've heard all sorts of comments about which type and brand of head gasket to use. In my opinion it shouldn't make too much difference as long as it is made to meet OEM spec requirements. I ended up ordering a set from enginebldr (sp?) and the set I received was very nice and of very high quality. I think "rock auto" made them. I had no problems with any of the gaskets supplied and I also ordered the head bolts from him too.
The rest of the parts I used were ACDelco as I am a GM tech and get a good discount on their stuff. I also went with new standard cams, which my machine shop ordered. Not sure of the brand there, but they were very nice also (I used a good reputable machine shop).
Yes the job is truly a PITA. Even having all my tools and a fully equipped shop the job took me 18 hrs from start to finish. Good luck on your job.
-Wrench
#20
I just bought an '88 and it has a V6 with blown headgaskets...
Anyone know if a 22R would drop "easily" into the truck instead?
Might seem silly to go from a V6 to a 4-banger, but .. they don't seem to blow headgaskets as often
Anyone know if a 22R would drop "easily" into the truck instead?
Might seem silly to go from a V6 to a 4-banger, but .. they don't seem to blow headgaskets as often