Water in the trannsmission....what will it do? HELP
#1
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Water in the trannsmission....what will it do? HELP
I think I got water in my transmission and today I put the truck into gear only to have it barely roll forward and it was acting as if the transmission was slipping - however there was NO jerking at all. Is this what happens if water gets in it? (the ECT button was on) When I turned off the ECT button, it seemed to get better, but i dunno. Right now my tranny seems fine and it was for the rest of the day, but for a good 15 minutes, it had me scared big time. The reason I think it got water in it was because I found a pretty deep mud hole yesterday...Im guessing the water was a good 16-20" deep...
Could this just be water in the tranny and if so, will changing the tranny fluid and filters help this? I hope my tranny isnt shot....:cry:
Steve
Could this just be water in the tranny and if so, will changing the tranny fluid and filters help this? I hope my tranny isnt shot....:cry:
Steve
#2
Hmmm....not sure about automatic transmissions, but my manual transmission has the breather at the top where the shifter goes in. Was the water over the top of your transmission?
Glenn
Glenn
#3
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Originally posted by Glenn
Hmmm....not sure about automatic transmissions, but my manual transmission has the breather at the top where the shifter goes in. Was the water over the top of your transmission?
Glenn
Hmmm....not sure about automatic transmissions, but my manual transmission has the breather at the top where the shifter goes in. Was the water over the top of your transmission?
Glenn
What are water in the tranny symptoms and what can be done about it?
My breathers have NOT been lengthened - I didn't realize the hole was that deep, and I couldn't turn around without getting stuck... :cry:
#4
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All you can do is dump it and change the filter .. personaly I would tow it to a place that can do a power flush and have them try to flush it out... Tell them there is water in it though, you don't want to screw up their equipment.. Gonna have to do the axles and transfer case too!!
BTW, I have taken water over the hood with out having it get inside (not the whole hood, water was around the center of the door and I dropped into a hole!) Kinda dipped in under~
PS.. I think you are screwed! :pat:
BTW, I have taken water over the hood with out having it get inside (not the whole hood, water was around the center of the door and I dropped into a hole!) Kinda dipped in under~
PS.. I think you are screwed! :pat:
#5
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Well, I let everything cool down and just now drove my yota all over the place with it acting completely normal. Im definately going to change everything with the help of a mechanic friend of mine and probably get it flushed as well.
Where exactly IS the breather for the front axle, differential and the tranny? Since I will have access to a lift and will be under my truck for a while, Ill extend all of them....
damn i hope my tranny's not shot. She's got 218k miles on her right now....keep your fingers crossed for me.:pat:
Where exactly IS the breather for the front axle, differential and the tranny? Since I will have access to a lift and will be under my truck for a while, Ill extend all of them....
damn i hope my tranny's not shot. She's got 218k miles on her right now....keep your fingers crossed for me.:pat:
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Originally posted by Firefyter-Emt
personaly I would tow it to a place that can do a power flush and have them try to flush it out
personaly I would tow it to a place that can do a power flush and have them try to flush it out
If you can get the tranny flush twice to get rid of that water, do it. Spend some money now for a tranny flush better than spending a lot of cash later for a tranny swap. I would drop the pan and clean them magnets if I were you and then get a tranny flush.
Noel
#7
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ok she's getting a tranny flush tomorrow after my test....what can I expect to be charged for such a flush? Does the flush include new filters and ATF? The mudhole incident was yesterday....
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#8
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Figure about $125 or so... But if you got water in the tranny, you have to do the axles and transfer case!! They are just as bed, but will not show signs like a slush box will..
#10
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I can do the rear differential tomorrow after the tranny flush. I do not know how to do the front end differential so that will wait until monday when I can enlist my mechanic's help on that. (Or if someone here can talk me through the front end differential fluid change that'd be great. )
How much differential fluid will I need to buy and should I go the synthetic route while im at it?
The transfercase is where? Will the tranny flush swap out the ATF in the transfercase as well since they both share ATF?
How much differential fluid will I need to buy and should I go the synthetic route while im at it?
The transfercase is where? Will the tranny flush swap out the ATF in the transfercase as well since they both share ATF?
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 03-18-2003 at 07:09 PM.
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I do not know how to do the front end differential
as for how much, that should be in your owners manual....
i don't know the differences between synthetic or normal......
#13
The front differential is basically the same as the rear. There is a drain plug at the bottom and a fill plug on the side. You will have to remove the plate from the front end. On my non-ADD truck, the front capacity is 1.7 quarts, and the rear is 2.3. So about 5 quarts. One thing I want to suggest is take the fill plug off first. If that plug is stuck and you drain the fluids, you will have a h*ll of a time refilling them. As for synthetic/dino, if you can justify the expense, go for it. I have it in my transmission/transfer case, but not my differentials.
Glenn
Glenn
#14
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Thanks for the help guys I appreciate it. The tranny and transfer case are being serviced right now. I explained thouroughly exactly what happened. If they find any major things beyond the standard 125 dollar fee they said they will call.
They said that it was a possibility that the clutch's friction plates could already be well worn (218000miles) and depending on what needs to be done it could be really expensive. I hope not....
I dont think my truck has a whole heck of a lot of value left (1990), so if it's major, my truck could be totalled...in which case I loose my yota. :cry: I'd rather have my g/f dump me in front of my entire molecular genetics class than loose my yota....
For those of you thinking about doing the breather mod - DO IT NOW!! Avoid this hell hole Im going through.
They said that it was a possibility that the clutch's friction plates could already be well worn (218000miles) and depending on what needs to be done it could be really expensive. I hope not....
I dont think my truck has a whole heck of a lot of value left (1990), so if it's major, my truck could be totalled...in which case I loose my yota. :cry: I'd rather have my g/f dump me in front of my entire molecular genetics class than loose my yota....
For those of you thinking about doing the breather mod - DO IT NOW!! Avoid this hell hole Im going through.
#15
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UPDATE -
The tranny dude said that there was only about a teacup of water in the tranny's and TC's pan combined and that it had not mixed with the ATF very much at all. (The ATF wasnot pink at all thank God.) He said that the complete slipping earlier could be due to water getting into one of the valves. He also recommended a complete tranny overhaul sometime soon (~1400)
Anyhow my yota is back to its normal self tranny-wise. Ill be doing the differentials tonight or tomorrow morning before the drive into class.
I also ordered every damn new breather I could find - did you know there are 5 total? 1 breather per axle, 1 on the transfer case, and 2 on the tranny. They will ALL be extened as high as I can get em - dont need any of this damn crap again.
FirefighterEMT and everyone - thanks for the info and helping me out...if you need ANYTHING dont hesitate to ask.
Steve
The tranny dude said that there was only about a teacup of water in the tranny's and TC's pan combined and that it had not mixed with the ATF very much at all. (The ATF wasnot pink at all thank God.) He said that the complete slipping earlier could be due to water getting into one of the valves. He also recommended a complete tranny overhaul sometime soon (~1400)
Anyhow my yota is back to its normal self tranny-wise. Ill be doing the differentials tonight or tomorrow morning before the drive into class.
I also ordered every damn new breather I could find - did you know there are 5 total? 1 breather per axle, 1 on the transfer case, and 2 on the tranny. They will ALL be extened as high as I can get em - dont need any of this damn crap again.
FirefighterEMT and everyone - thanks for the info and helping me out...if you need ANYTHING dont hesitate to ask.
Steve
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Sweet.. Keep an eye on the dipstick for a while.. See if there is anything that looks odd on it when you pull it out..
I would hold off any overhaul unless it starts to give you trouble..
Course' I do have a 5spd out of a 90 pickup for sale cheap 86kmiles.....
I would hold off any overhaul unless it starts to give you trouble..
Course' I do have a 5spd out of a 90 pickup for sale cheap 86kmiles.....
#18
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There a few tricks to changing the diff oil. I'm not sure what year we are talking about but I bet its similar on new and old IFS.
Lock the hubs if you have manuals.
Drive 10-15 miles to warn up the diff oil.
Remove the skid plate/ bunny deflector.
Use a 6 point 24 mm socket and breaker bar to remove fill plug first. Fill plug is on the front of the differential.
Get a drain pan and undo the 24mm drain plug.
Let it drain forever and a day. Driving around towarm op the old oil helps a lot here.
Try to warm up the new oil as much as possible also. It will make it easier to pump in.
Its just about impossible to get the oil in from a 1 quart bottle. I used to use a lotion bottle to pump the oil in, then I broke down and bought a real pump.
Lock the hubs if you have manuals.
Drive 10-15 miles to warn up the diff oil.
Remove the skid plate/ bunny deflector.
Use a 6 point 24 mm socket and breaker bar to remove fill plug first. Fill plug is on the front of the differential.
Get a drain pan and undo the 24mm drain plug.
Let it drain forever and a day. Driving around towarm op the old oil helps a lot here.
Try to warm up the new oil as much as possible also. It will make it easier to pump in.
Its just about impossible to get the oil in from a 1 quart bottle. I used to use a lotion bottle to pump the oil in, then I broke down and bought a real pump.
#19
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Originally posted by Glenn
Don't forget the snorkle!
Glenn
Don't forget the snorkle!
Glenn
http://pnw4runners.net/pics/snork.jpg
#20
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Originally posted by Firefyter-Emt
Sweet.. Keep an eye on the dipstick for a while.. See if there is anything that looks odd on it when you pull it out..
I would hold off any overhaul unless it starts to give you trouble..
Course' I do have a 5spd out of a 90 pickup for sale cheap 86kmiles.....
Sweet.. Keep an eye on the dipstick for a while.. See if there is anything that looks odd on it when you pull it out..
I would hold off any overhaul unless it starts to give you trouble..
Course' I do have a 5spd out of a 90 pickup for sale cheap 86kmiles.....
Steve