Bean

What does your ScanGauge show for for the water temp? I know it varies by condition, but what range do you experience?

I was showing 190-195 pretty consistenly on the highway with no AC. I just had the timing belt and water pump replaced and I'm now showing 198-220, mostly in the 203-210 range but it fluctuates alot. (Not to mention that it's been a good bit cooler around here since the work was done)

Dealer says that what I'm seeing now is actually normal but I'm concerned by the jump in temp AFTER putting a new water pump in.

CTRJ

I'm seeing anywhere from 195 to about 202. I haven't had my gauge long and it hasn't been really hot here though. The highest I remember was 202 with the AC on and running about 70-75 on the highway.

MTL_4runner

That seems odd.....

Did they replace the thermostat too? Stock open temp (190 degree) ?
They also may have used too much RTV on the WP and some of it broke off and got in a coolant passage.

Bean

Same thermostat, fresh coolant.

Dealer said everything is operating normally and won't work on it any further but I'm still concerned. Would a power flush clear a blocked passage??

MTL_4runner

Reverse flushing might remove the blockage if there was one. Just be sure to remove the thermostat before you do it or you won't get as much benefit from doing so. I've seen a few cases where RTV is used too liberally and some of it breaks off and plugs some if the head gasket coolant passages. I'm not sure I'd be completely alarmed by the temps you're seeing but you might also try just running with no thermostat at all for a few days and see what temps settle to. If the temps are still above 200 degrees with no thermostat at all, then you have a definiate problem on your hands.

mt_goat

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Bean

interesting development

Today was the first day I drove it since sine the dealer had the car to recheck everything. SG showed temps very consistently between 195 and 202. The highest reading I noticed was 204. So, did they fix something that they wouldn't admit to, was the SG going wacky or was there some blockage that cleared itself??? I may never know but I'm definitely going to keep watching the readings. btw it was 10 degrees warmer today than when I was seeing readings of 220 for short intervals.

Rescue84

My SG usually shows around 202, the highest being 204.

hopper

First day with my Scan Guage and I was at about 190ish on freeway.

mt_goat

It can take a few warm-up and cool-down cycles to work all the air pockets out after a radiator drain and refill. Has your radiator been sucking coolant from the over-flow bottle?

RacerX

I'm thinking the same idea mt_goat mentioned

there might still be some air pockets in the system which take bleeding or time to remove...

not sure how prone that motor is to having air pockets but try leaving the motor to idle with the heater on but at a low fan setting (to keep the thermostat open) and drawing outside air not recirculating... just for 20-30 min also might be worth while to check the fan clutch...

MTL_4runner

That's a very good sign. Leave all the heaters on full (both front and rear if you have one) while on the highway......roll the windows down if you need to since it may get quite warm. About 15-20 minutes of highway driving should clear out any trapped air pockets if there were any.

SLC97SR5

I warm right up to 190* all year long, if it's COLD and I'm on the freeway, I'll see 186 and in the summer loaded, uphill with the A/C on I'll see 205*.

Bean

thanks all.
The fan clutch seems okay.

Drove 190 miles round trip for work today. One 15-20 mile stretch in each direction in pretty heavy stop and go traffic. Hit 205 breifly, stayed between 200 and 204 most of the trip but with the heavy traffic I wasn't really watching it all that closely. I turned the AC on for a bit just to see what would happen... temp reading actually dropped to mid-190's, go figure.

Maybe I over reacted but, my antenna mysteriously broke while it was in for service, and I came away with a variety of new scratches so I was assuming the worst all around. Especially since cooling issues were the demise of my 95 truck (3.0).

mt_goat

The real test of the cooling system for me is when the day time highs are in the 100s.

MTL_4runner

You might try and new thermostat or at least test the old one in a pot of water to make sure it opens at the right temp. It seems like maybe the thrmostat is sticking and needs a spike in temp to fully open (hence the drop after the AC kicked on).

rearviewmirror

The ScanGauge is reading what your ECU would receive in regards to engine temp so I think they're pretty well spot on. It makes you wonder what they did right/wrong to have the engine temp increase, then after the return of the vehicle it runs cooler again.

smccollamjr

I think this is a good possibility. I just changed the thermostat in my XJ. It's on the front of the block so I lost just about all the coolant out of the engine. The first few times I drove it the temp jumped around a good bit and kind of concerned. But now staying right where it always did before the old stat wore out.