VSV for EVAP (purge) - interchangeable?
#1
VSV for EVAP (purge) - interchangeable?
Hey folks,
First time poster here. I've got a bad purge vsv on my '01 (2.7l m/t 4x4). I'm planning to get one (or two) from the junkyard or ebay. The specific p/n for my vehicle is 25860-75220. I'm wondering if I can't find that specific one, would any toyota purge vsv work? They have many models of the valve all starting with 25860 on both toyota cars and trucks. I realize the bracket or mounting mechanism may be different but I'm not too worried about that.
The way I see it, they are all 12v valves that the ECM decides to open or close.
Unless some of them are closed-when-powered and others are open-when-powered?
Thanks in advance for any help.
-Dog
First time poster here. I've got a bad purge vsv on my '01 (2.7l m/t 4x4). I'm planning to get one (or two) from the junkyard or ebay. The specific p/n for my vehicle is 25860-75220. I'm wondering if I can't find that specific one, would any toyota purge vsv work? They have many models of the valve all starting with 25860 on both toyota cars and trucks. I realize the bracket or mounting mechanism may be different but I'm not too worried about that.
The way I see it, they are all 12v valves that the ECM decides to open or close.
Unless some of them are closed-when-powered and others are open-when-powered?
Thanks in advance for any help.
-Dog
#2
Contributing Member
Caninetoggler,
Just a thought - I've been chasing three evap system codes for more than a year. Last year I purchased one of the valves that sit right at the charcoal canister over the spare tire. It was a bear to replace, cost nearly $60 from Toyota, and did nothing for my codes.
I've concluded that the only fix is to replace the entire $350 charcoal canister. Which I'd rather no do.
I did permantly mount a Scan GaugeII under my ashtray, and when a code pops up, I clear it on the fly, in seconds.
I've read that overtopping the gas tank can directly result in this charcoal canister failing - I always overfilled during the first 10 years of owning the truck.
Andreas
Just a thought - I've been chasing three evap system codes for more than a year. Last year I purchased one of the valves that sit right at the charcoal canister over the spare tire. It was a bear to replace, cost nearly $60 from Toyota, and did nothing for my codes.
I've concluded that the only fix is to replace the entire $350 charcoal canister. Which I'd rather no do.
I did permantly mount a Scan GaugeII under my ashtray, and when a code pops up, I clear it on the fly, in seconds.
I've read that overtopping the gas tank can directly result in this charcoal canister failing - I always overfilled during the first 10 years of owning the truck.
Andreas
#3
Thanks for the input. That's kind of why I want to go with a junkyard/ebay valve. But I think a big difference is that you've got 3 evap codes. I just have P0441, and it's been just this code for nearly a year now.
It first cropped up soon after I got my frame and everything replaced (original owner never brought it in for the recall). So, just to see if it would be covered by any kind of warranty, I brought the truck back to the stealership. They told me the code (which I already knew) and said an electronic valve needed to be replaced. They offered to do it for the low, low price of $300
Next I found a troubleshooting guide for all evap codes (PM me your email if you want this) which confirmed that when it is just P0441 it is likely a problem with this valve (the one for purge is the one with the service port on one of the lines coming out).
Finally I disconnected the valve, applied voltage to it and listened for an audible click. At first it did click but didn't seem to be doing so consistently. I tried spraying some WD40 in the mechanical side of it to clean it out. After putting it back on and clearing the code, it came back. The next time I took the valve off, it did not click at all.
So I'm confident enough to at least spend $10-$25 on this part to try it out. I'm just trying to figure out if I can just grab the first one I find (that works) at the junkyard, or the cheapest one on ebay rather than trying to track down the exact one for my truck.
Inspection time is right around the corner... I gotta fix this, and the e-brake .
It first cropped up soon after I got my frame and everything replaced (original owner never brought it in for the recall). So, just to see if it would be covered by any kind of warranty, I brought the truck back to the stealership. They told me the code (which I already knew) and said an electronic valve needed to be replaced. They offered to do it for the low, low price of $300
Next I found a troubleshooting guide for all evap codes (PM me your email if you want this) which confirmed that when it is just P0441 it is likely a problem with this valve (the one for purge is the one with the service port on one of the lines coming out).
Finally I disconnected the valve, applied voltage to it and listened for an audible click. At first it did click but didn't seem to be doing so consistently. I tried spraying some WD40 in the mechanical side of it to clean it out. After putting it back on and clearing the code, it came back. The next time I took the valve off, it did not click at all.
So I'm confident enough to at least spend $10-$25 on this part to try it out. I'm just trying to figure out if I can just grab the first one I find (that works) at the junkyard, or the cheapest one on ebay rather than trying to track down the exact one for my truck.
Inspection time is right around the corner... I gotta fix this, and the e-brake .
#4
I found one new on Amazon for $26. Figured it was worth a try as the reviews were positive. I haven't received it yet, so no report on whether it solved my EVAP CEL.
MadCityRich
2002 4Runner
MadCityRich
2002 4Runner
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