Greedy

I am having the URD fuel uprade kit installed by a local shop. They had some issues fitting the smaller pulley on the S/C (was binding up against the S/C body) and ended up opening up the nose drive. When they opened it up, they said that the oil was very black and burnt smelling. They are recommending a complete overhaul of the S/C for ~$800. Does this sound right? The S/C itself has about 40K miles on it and the oil has never been changed. I have done a search and did not see any other problems like this with such low mileage. It is a 4th gen S/C (black one). I am leaning towards just replacing the oil and calling it good. The only noise that I ever heard from it was when I would floor it and would then let off the gas it would let out a screech (sounded like a belt slipping). This only happened for a short period of time though and has not been doing it for the past 6 months though. Any ideas?

Weasy2k

Thats low oil milage...there should not be a problem fitting that pulley on there...i dont know what there doing wrong?? Is it a URD pulley?

Black oil = used oil....i dont know why they opened it for but all it needs is a oil change.

I did the same thing to my s/c after 40k and it smelt bad but the new oil didnt smell any better

Just noticed it was a URD pullley you got...i have never heard of a problem with those pulleys.

Greedy

Thanks. Just got off the phone with magenusson and they confirmed that the oil being black and smelly is normal. The pully that I have is a URD 2.2 inch pully but it is the old style i think for the 1st gen blowers. I ordered the new supergrip one and some new oil from TRD.

Weasy2k

Sweet...800usd for a rebuild is also a bit on the high side...good to see its fine

HUTCHSTACO

what shop are you going to?

TRDOLMAN

What happened Greedy is that the new pulley was probably a little tight and the guys had to knock it on with something. Of course they will tell you they didn't but they did. Either that or they hit the shaft of the gear puller trying to get the old pulley off. One way or the other, they forced the shaft too far back into the housing. If the shaft is too far back, the back of the pulley will rub the leading edge of the nose drive case. I have seen it too many times. Before you put the nose drive back on, get the shaft back into it's proper position. Have the shop guys refer to this site if they have any questions about it:
http://www.rollingperformance.com/snoutrebuild.htm

NEVER use anything to knock a pulley on to an Eaton nose drive. If the pulley is too tight to slip on firmly by hand, use fine sandpaper, or a fine drum sanding tool on the bore of the pulley until you can firmly slide it on by hand.

If I were the mechanics at that shop, I would be a little embarrassed.

mt_goat

Nice link! What kind of pullers will work for taking the stock pulley off?

Greedy

Thanks TRDOLMAN, I will check that. If it is the case, do you reccomend me sending the nose unit to magnesson to have it rebuilt? (I don't feel comfortable having the shop rebuilding it) . Also, the stock pulley fits back on fine and does not rub. Does this mean that the shaft may not have been pushed back?

TRDOLMAN

If you checked out that site ( look over the whole site), and looked at the nose drive itself, you will see that the nose drive assy is pretty simple. I would take care of it myself but I don't have any idea how mechanical you are or whether your mechanics are any good. It should be as simple as pressing the shaft back into place from the back side. Are the couplers in good shape with the holes not wallowed out? I would consider at least replacing those. If it were mine and I had it apart like you do, I would replace the bearings and seals as well. Sending it off is a judgement call on your part.
If you are installing a URD super grip pulley and it rubs----the shaft has been knocked back too far. All those pulleys are CNC machined and are the same. I can't say the same if you are installing another brand pulley.

Goat----I use a simple 2 jaw gear puller to remove pulleys.

Greedy

Thanks again... I did read the whole site and it appeared that you needed a new bearing and seal, press and puller. I dont's have access to these tools and don't trust the shop to do the work. The pulley that was rubbing was bought off a fellow yotatech member about a year ago and is supposed to be a urd 2.2 inch pulley. However, it does not look like the one I just ordered off the URD website - it is silver and looks very similar to the stock pully just smaller. If the stock pulley sits normally and does not rub, do you think I am ok? Also, I check my girlfriends truck (taco with S/C) and it appears that the stock pulley on it has the same clearance as my stock pulley does now. Worse case scenario - if I install the new pulley from urd with no rubbing but the shaft was pushed back a little bit, will it destroy the internals of the S/C or just wear out the nose assembly quicker?

TomCham

I am waiting for my URD 2.2" pulley to arrive & will fit it to my s/c'r. The URD fuel kit works well & the power/torque is a lot better than before. I have to run my rig a little longer to see if the long term fuel trim will change.

Dave, do you think running the 2.2" pulley is safe w/o water mist system? My rig is for daily use & occasionally for offroad & expeditional in China. My exhaust temp is between 1,400-1,500 degree F with standard pulley. We are using 98 Octane fuel here, that's the only gasoline available in Hong Kong so I beleive it may prevents spark knock at higher boost like 9.5psi.

MTL_4runner

You'll probably be ok with octane that high in your fuel but watch those exhaust temps because your moving alot more air. With the cheap gas we have out here there is no way you could pull that off without an aquamist since the incoming air heats up that much more with the smaller pulley. You may still need the aquamist but I would try it first and see how the high test gas does.

midiwall

I'm not Dave, but I'll answer... Yes! (I've run the 2.2 for quite a while now) But I wouldn't go any smaller without a mister.


edit: I just read your whole message. sorry. Umm, Jamie's got a point - your temps seem pretty high for running 98 on a stock pulley. Those are WOT temps, right?

Where did you install the thermocouple? Are you running headers? Are you SURE that you're not lean on top? Do you have a wideband O2 that you can check with?




Greedy... _DOOD_ I wish you woulda' dropped me a line before you took the truck to a shop. I woulda' been happy to come over and help you out or do the install for you. Buy me a slice of pizza and we woulda' been square!

Hope you get it worked out!

oh hey... and what shop is this that we all need to stay away from now?

Greedy

Damn! Should have called ya (mark right?). Thanks for the offer though! However I just had surgery on my knee and wasn't going to have the time to get it done for a few months and was worrying about the wear on my engine. The shop I brought it to is Carbeurator Connection in Totem Lake. They actually have been pretty good guys, just not real familiar with our set ups apparently. They did say that they would pay for the rebuild of the nose if needed so at least they are admiting to and covering for thier mistakes. Plus, they are giving me a pretty good package deal including install, and dyno-ing. I may hit u up when i install my headers and body lift if you want!!!

TomCham

Midiwall, thanks for your respond. I will watch the exhaust gas temp closely after the 2.2" pulley is fitted. Those are WOT temp (1,400-1,500 defree F) & my thermal couple is fitted 7" on the #6 exhaust down pipe from the exhaust port..

My EGT gauge shows Cercius degree, I have to check on the degree C to F convertion table again to make sure it's 1,400-1,500F

I fitted a Dynojet Wideband commander & the AFR at WOT is 12:1 & 12.5-13 at part throttle. Richer fuel mixture will have a cooler EGT & my mechanic said it's very safe now.

I think I will get an aquamist system in the next step after the 2.2" pulley is fitted & tested. Really envy TRDOLDMAN's 300bhp RWHP

rimpainter.com

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...harger+rebuild

HUTCHSTACO

you should keep mark in mind, he helped me out with my tbs (i know u guys hate them) and seems to really know his stuff.

TRDOLMAN

It might be just a problem with that other pulley you bought. If you have the same clearance as the other truck with stock pulleys then you should be good to go. Try the new pulley and see if it rubs. If not, you are good!

If the URD pulley doesn't rub, the shaft hasn't been pushed back (if it ever really was) too far. I wouldn't worry about it. If you are worried about it---send it off to Magnuson.

TRDOLMAN

Jamie and Mark answered your question. I would only like to add that according to Gadget, 1450 at WOT is optimal and nothing to worry about.

midiwall

CC is where I organized a "Dyno Day" a couple of years ago. I thought they'd be "better" than to pull apart the nose and try to sell you a rebuild. hmmm..

And um... you're on your own with the headers.


I agree, but I was thinking that it should be lower on the stock pulley with 98 octane. I'm running a bit rich at 1330 on 92 with the 2.2". hmmm..

Tom, like we've all said - just keep an eye on the temps and figure that you'll have to add fuel when you put the pulley on.