Ugly Water Pump...
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ugly Water Pump...
So I decided to change my timing belt today (151,000 klms on it) and not knowing if I needed to or not, i decided I'd replace the water pump as well. I'm kind of glad I chose to do this because once I got the covers off, this is what I found:
Kudos to everyone at Yotatech for all the info on replacing the timing belt and also the the advice on changing the water pump while you're at it!!!
Kudos to everyone at Yotatech for all the info on replacing the timing belt and also the the advice on changing the water pump while you're at it!!!
#2
have never seen anything clutter up like that. about time to inspect the problem. so definitely the stuff thats surround that front-side block is not suppose to be there.
#3
Contributing Member
Once the WP starts weeping that's pretty much what it's going to look like when it's been doing it for a while.
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w...llen1/4Runner/
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 04-13-2007 at 04:59 AM.
#5
do you mean the wp has a seepage? if that was the case, then that WP needs immediate attention and toyota red coolant might NOT be a great idea after all.
gpcollen1 had the same thing happen, have a look.
Once the WP starts weeping that's pretty much what it's going to look like when it's been doing it for a while.
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w...llen1/4Runner/
Once the WP starts weeping that's pretty much what it's going to look like when it's been doing it for a while.
http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w...llen1/4Runner/
#6
Contributing Member
I'm talking about when the WP goes south.....that's when seepage occurs.
.....and yes, toyota red coolant is a good thing for your engine.....all coolants leave a residue when evaporated.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 04-13-2007 at 06:05 AM.
#7
so is that residue due to seepage failure or what? if failure due to seepage, the flow rate on the seepage hole is pretty significant to let you know the cooling system is lost of coolant and cause overheating slowly.
i am not sure wether which coolant will be better but i still use toyota red coolant for my 4runner. from two past experiences w/ conventional prestone on two diff car w/ diff block material (aluminum and iron w/ leakin seals, if that matters) and it has a failure due to seepage. however, the residue that stayed on there for couple of days do not show any sort of sign of residue built up like that. as a matter of fact, the coolant was still retained around the oil pump housing and such, but still no residue. it actually cleanned away the oil residue from the aluminum housing.
not to conclude but it seems like the toyota red has an adverse effect on the material(s).
i am not sure wether which coolant will be better but i still use toyota red coolant for my 4runner. from two past experiences w/ conventional prestone on two diff car w/ diff block material (aluminum and iron w/ leakin seals, if that matters) and it has a failure due to seepage. however, the residue that stayed on there for couple of days do not show any sort of sign of residue built up like that. as a matter of fact, the coolant was still retained around the oil pump housing and such, but still no residue. it actually cleanned away the oil residue from the aluminum housing.
not to conclude but it seems like the toyota red has an adverse effect on the material(s).
Last edited by profuse007; 04-13-2007 at 06:59 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
the power of researching before tackling a job.
Out of curiosity, has anyone had any experience with not getting the timing belt done correctly? For instance, having one of the cam sprockets out of alignment (or time) by one gear tooth (I know it's a belt but not sure what else to call it) and try to run the motor that way? How bad will you notice the missalignment or will the motor even start?
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Land of Enchantment
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
when i did the timing belt on my subaru, the left side cams were off by one tooth. this caused the engine to run, but very poorly. it felt like we unplugged a spark plug wire. no power whatsoever.
be very careful though, some engines are interference engines, meaning that if the valve timing is off, then the valves will strike the piston crown.
be very careful though, some engines are interference engines, meaning that if the valve timing is off, then the valves will strike the piston crown.
#10
Contributing Member
Mine looked like that too, thick and gooey. Never had a green coolant wp have that kind of build up, but then again, my wps have never been hidden behind timing covers to weep for who knows how long, either.
The 3.4 isn't an interference. Mine went together fine. 2
The 3.4 isn't an interference. Mine went together fine. 2
#11
Contributing Member
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Land of Enchantment
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#13
Contributing Member
so is that residue due to seepage failure or what?
Yes, the WP is toast.
if failure due to seepage, the flow rate on the seepage hole is pretty significant to let you know the cooling system is lost of coolant and cause overheating slowly.
No, it isn't. That has probably been seeping for weeks or months. Swede can probably answer how often he's had to top off the coolant due to the weeping of the WP.
i am not sure wether which coolant will be better but i still use toyota red coolant for my 4runner. from two past experiences w/ conventional prestone on two diff car w/ diff block material (aluminum and iron w/ leakin seals, if that matters) and it has a failure due to seepage. however, the residue that stayed on there for couple of days do not show any sort of sign of residue built up like that. as a matter of fact, the coolant was still retained around the oil pump housing and such, but still no residue. it actually cleanned away the oil residue from the aluminum housing.
Use whatever you want in your motor, I think you're seriously missing the boat here.
Quick search will find you plenty of coolant info on here.
not to conclude but it seems like the toyota red has an adverse effect on the material(s).
Um, no, it does not.
Yes, the WP is toast.
if failure due to seepage, the flow rate on the seepage hole is pretty significant to let you know the cooling system is lost of coolant and cause overheating slowly.
No, it isn't. That has probably been seeping for weeks or months. Swede can probably answer how often he's had to top off the coolant due to the weeping of the WP.
i am not sure wether which coolant will be better but i still use toyota red coolant for my 4runner. from two past experiences w/ conventional prestone on two diff car w/ diff block material (aluminum and iron w/ leakin seals, if that matters) and it has a failure due to seepage. however, the residue that stayed on there for couple of days do not show any sort of sign of residue built up like that. as a matter of fact, the coolant was still retained around the oil pump housing and such, but still no residue. it actually cleanned away the oil residue from the aluminum housing.
Use whatever you want in your motor, I think you're seriously missing the boat here.
Quick search will find you plenty of coolant info on here.
not to conclude but it seems like the toyota red has an adverse effect on the material(s).
Um, no, it does not.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; 04-13-2007 at 09:58 AM.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've had the rig for some 4 years now and put on around 80,000 klm's and have just within the last 6 months or so added a small amount of coolant maybe 1/4 to 1/3rd of a liter. That's all. Just to get it above the "low level" mark in the reservoir. It probably looks worse than it actually is, because when the coolant from the seep-hole hits the idler it probably gets sprayed all over the block. That'd be my guess. I've never had a cooling issue otherwise.
Also, when I removed the old pump, it looked fine. No play or roughness in the impeller shaft either. Who knows how long it could've lasted.
Also, when I removed the old pump, it looked fine. No play or roughness in the impeller shaft either. Who knows how long it could've lasted.
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Connecticut (NY State of Mind)
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey those pics look familiar!!
Mine appeared to be a very slow leak over a long period of time. I usually check all my fluids here adn there but definitely at oil change time. Not once do I remember having to add any significant amount of antifreeze to the vehicle but I probably added a little here and there - figuring a bit of evaporation in the transfer to the overflow/reservoir.
I had not removed the top cover to inspect the water pumps til i did the Timing Belt at 120k-ish.
G
Mine appeared to be a very slow leak over a long period of time. I usually check all my fluids here adn there but definitely at oil change time. Not once do I remember having to add any significant amount of antifreeze to the vehicle but I probably added a little here and there - figuring a bit of evaporation in the transfer to the overflow/reservoir.
I had not removed the top cover to inspect the water pumps til i did the Timing Belt at 120k-ish.
G
#18
tell me about it. if it builds up like that, its definitely not good for the components in there, especially for the timing belt. pretty odd to see it happens like this.
that seepage (weep?) isnt suppose to be there for sure. if the other guy has to top off his coolant, he definitely needs to check out this cooling system.
that seepage (weep?) isnt suppose to be there for sure. if the other guy has to top off his coolant, he definitely needs to check out this cooling system.
#19
Contributing Member
Yeah, I had a WP on hand when I did the TB. I'd been adding small amounts of coolant for awhile so I had an inkling.
#20
Registered User
It looks a lot worse than it is. When that Toyota red coolant dries up it gets crusty, unlike regular green coolant. I think it's a good feature as it helps you identify a coolant leak a lot easier. It only does this when it dries up from outside air, so it's not going to do this in your cooling system.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LotOMiles
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
8
09-14-2015 11:45 PM