The Tundra Coil lift revisited - pics and thoughts
#1
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The Tundra Coil lift revisited - pics and thoughts
Not the best comparison pics, but here's stock:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...61271308OGoRad
And lifted:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...61295237OvPRqj
CV's with the Cornfed drop:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...61280740waLaXH
So it's the Tundra lift coined by Bamachem, Gapguy, etc.... Props to them for their research and testing! I didn't do so hot in the measuring department, lost pre-lift measurements but I would guess I got the usual 2.5-3", if anything I'd guess closer to 3" (see CV angle). I did the whole process myself but I did run to town and have a shop use their hydraulic compressor to put the Tundra coils on the strut - they did it for free. For anyone reading this or thinking about doing this - I don't care what anybody says let somebody with the proper equipment put the new coils on. Taking the old ones off is cake with the usual spring compressors, but the Tundra coils are too much. Yes, it can be done, but then again you can probably cut a tree down with a steak knife too can't ya? Yeah, save your arms. While I was at it I did go ahead and put some new upper ball joints in as well, since I was in that deep and my rig has 110,000 on it. The old ball joints were pretty sloppy. I'm glad I did it looking back, after an alignment is straight as an arrow down the road and the guys who aligned it said it was an easy job. Taking them out and putting the new ones in was a real PITA, but if you had the right tools it might not be so bad.
I hated the ride at first. Just hated it. Our heavy 3/4 Dodge Ram rides nicer. It wasn't till after about 400 miles and the alignment that it dialed in. Now, I totally agree with everybody elses statements - it rides as tight as anything on the highway and is pretty forgiving at slow speeds. Don't ask me anything about flex, don't have a clue nor do I care at this point. I will say that it rides a bit harsh for the people in the backseat, and driving through town at 30mph or so and I still think it feels like a 3/4 ton truck when you hit bumps. I suppose it is still relatively "young" so I hope it softens up a bit. As for saying it rides rough, it's more in the back so I guess I do wish I used the next softer coil back there, or the Downey. However much it sounds like I'm ripping on the slightly harsh ride like I just mentioned, the 55-80 mph range feels soooo nice. I've been in some g-machines all lowered with the Eibach springs and Bilstein shocks, etc.... and I just want to say I'm suprised how similar the 4Runner feels now. Yeah, it makes no sense as I've got AT tires and a such. Well, that's just my $.02 worth, sorry I'm so long winded but I guess if you're reading this you made it. Peace
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...61271308OGoRad
And lifted:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...61295237OvPRqj
CV's with the Cornfed drop:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...61280740waLaXH
So it's the Tundra lift coined by Bamachem, Gapguy, etc.... Props to them for their research and testing! I didn't do so hot in the measuring department, lost pre-lift measurements but I would guess I got the usual 2.5-3", if anything I'd guess closer to 3" (see CV angle). I did the whole process myself but I did run to town and have a shop use their hydraulic compressor to put the Tundra coils on the strut - they did it for free. For anyone reading this or thinking about doing this - I don't care what anybody says let somebody with the proper equipment put the new coils on. Taking the old ones off is cake with the usual spring compressors, but the Tundra coils are too much. Yes, it can be done, but then again you can probably cut a tree down with a steak knife too can't ya? Yeah, save your arms. While I was at it I did go ahead and put some new upper ball joints in as well, since I was in that deep and my rig has 110,000 on it. The old ball joints were pretty sloppy. I'm glad I did it looking back, after an alignment is straight as an arrow down the road and the guys who aligned it said it was an easy job. Taking them out and putting the new ones in was a real PITA, but if you had the right tools it might not be so bad.
I hated the ride at first. Just hated it. Our heavy 3/4 Dodge Ram rides nicer. It wasn't till after about 400 miles and the alignment that it dialed in. Now, I totally agree with everybody elses statements - it rides as tight as anything on the highway and is pretty forgiving at slow speeds. Don't ask me anything about flex, don't have a clue nor do I care at this point. I will say that it rides a bit harsh for the people in the backseat, and driving through town at 30mph or so and I still think it feels like a 3/4 ton truck when you hit bumps. I suppose it is still relatively "young" so I hope it softens up a bit. As for saying it rides rough, it's more in the back so I guess I do wish I used the next softer coil back there, or the Downey. However much it sounds like I'm ripping on the slightly harsh ride like I just mentioned, the 55-80 mph range feels soooo nice. I've been in some g-machines all lowered with the Eibach springs and Bilstein shocks, etc.... and I just want to say I'm suprised how similar the 4Runner feels now. Yeah, it makes no sense as I've got AT tires and a such. Well, that's just my $.02 worth, sorry I'm so long winded but I guess if you're reading this you made it. Peace
#3
The 891's are a noteably stiff rear coil. You might try the 906 coil or Downey for a softer ride. Even stock, I think the rear rides rough....I think it's the nature of the beast. Get out there and flex the rear, it'll soften up a bit.
I can take no credit for the system, but I'm VERY glad you like it! I think it would be ideal if somebody (maybe me) were to run the 906 coils with a 3/4" HDPE spacer between the coil and and bumpstop. THAT would ride sweet!
Originally Posted by Rade at ARB
For a 4Runner we only recommend the OME891 springs if an extremely heavy load is being carried regularly. For light loads the OME906 will give about 2" of lift and the OME890 for 2.5" of lift with a medium load.
Originally Posted by Tim at ARB
The OME891 spring is not designed for normal use in a 4Runner unless extremely heavy loads are being carried.
Last edited by User 051420; 01-31-2005 at 09:01 PM.
#4
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Your front end looks a bit higher than others I've seen with the Tundra set-up. I assume it is because you have a relatively light front end (no aftermarket bumper or winch).
I have a set of the Downey rear coils I was going to sell. They are the HD 3.5" springs (P/N 48296-3). They actually only lift 2.5" and have about 8000 miles on them. In my opinion, they are a bit softer than the 891s. I swapped to 891s when I got the new rear bumper.
I have a set of the Downey rear coils I was going to sell. They are the HD 3.5" springs (P/N 48296-3). They actually only lift 2.5" and have about 8000 miles on them. In my opinion, they are a bit softer than the 891s. I swapped to 891s when I got the new rear bumper.
Last edited by Bighead; 02-01-2005 at 03:09 AM.
#5
The downey's are a lot softer than the 891's but still stiffer than stock (that's a very good thing). If somebody wants the combination of great flex and a killer ride, those are the coils to get!
Lance, you might want to post those in the classifieds. I doubt they would last long. Downey sells them for something like $260 a pair plus shipping IIRC.
Lance, you might want to post those in the classifieds. I doubt they would last long. Downey sells them for something like $260 a pair plus shipping IIRC.
Last edited by bamachem; 02-01-2005 at 03:24 AM.
#7
I'll see if I can get one this evening. At some point when I have the time and a place to do it, I'm going to take one of my assemblies out and take detailed pics, but until then, I'll have to rely on verbage and borrowed pics.
It goes on top of the strut plate after everything else is assembled and just before you re-install it on the truck. You build the coilpack like OEM, but w/ longer studs and the tundra springs instead of the OEM springs. Then you put the spacer on top (kinda like a washer of sorts) then push the studs up through the holes in the upper mounting plate on the truck, then get all three nuts started, then get the lower shock eye lined up and then thread the lower bolt through it.
It goes the same place as the Revtek Top-Out Spacer (Part Number TOE-2)...
By running the longer Tundra Coils, you eliminate the thick Revtek PRELOAD SPACER (this is what they call it in the directions) that goes INSIDE the coil pack. You still follow the directions and refer to the pics for the rest of the steps to remove the OEM top plate, removing and replacing the studs, reassembling the coilpack, and placement of the top plate (part number TOE-2)
Here's the Revtek Instructions in PDF format.
http://www.revtek.com/docs/pn430.pdf
It goes on top of the strut plate after everything else is assembled and just before you re-install it on the truck. You build the coilpack like OEM, but w/ longer studs and the tundra springs instead of the OEM springs. Then you put the spacer on top (kinda like a washer of sorts) then push the studs up through the holes in the upper mounting plate on the truck, then get all three nuts started, then get the lower shock eye lined up and then thread the lower bolt through it.
It goes the same place as the Revtek Top-Out Spacer (Part Number TOE-2)...
By running the longer Tundra Coils, you eliminate the thick Revtek PRELOAD SPACER (this is what they call it in the directions) that goes INSIDE the coil pack. You still follow the directions and refer to the pics for the rest of the steps to remove the OEM top plate, removing and replacing the studs, reassembling the coilpack, and placement of the top plate (part number TOE-2)
Here's the Revtek Instructions in PDF format.
http://www.revtek.com/docs/pn430.pdf
Last edited by bamachem; 02-01-2005 at 04:06 AM.
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