pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

Well the cotter pins are so rusted they won't move. Just straightening them out causes the ends to break off. There isn't enough of a loop on the other end to pull them out. Tried getting needle nose and a small pointed hook in the there. The end on the hook just bends.

Any tips? Gotta get the spindles off so I can get the bearings pressed out.

Kerby J

try tapping them out with a drill bit of like diameter and if not just drill it out

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I'll try that as soon as I figure where my roommates moved my powertools while I was out of the country.

rjaudi

I cut the ends of the pin off. Then put a cheater pipe on the bolt and turned, The cotter pin just broke and the bolt came out.

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

That's what I wound up doing. I actually used the drill for part of that and a file and some side cutters and broke them by adding a cheater pipe. Once I get the spindles off should be easy to drill out of have the shop doing the press work do it.

Also thinking about doing those ball joints while they're going to the machine shop. Anyone know who has the best price on OEM tie rod ends and upper ball joints? I have never seen OEM parts last like this. I'm sure it still has the factory CVs, ball joints, tie rod ends ect. The only suspension item I have replaced in the past almost 6 years and 70k miles, is a sway bar end link. I use one from orlieys on that cause they're beefier than stock. I think that's pretty good for 13 years and 178k miles. I am thinking about buying stock in PB Blaster since I've been using so much of it.

ra33it

I've used Toyotapartszone.com in the past, but they're kinda slow.
If you want them fast, ask the dealership for a price, and then kinda push for them to improve that price I paid a LOT less for OEM ball joints from my local dealership than the "premium" bjs' were running for at Napa, and the napa ones didn't have zirk fittings...like 20 bucks less each.

I just did this job on my truck...I got Koyo bearings and races at napa. I used a BFH and popped the oil seal, bearings and races right out, no problem. Use your old bearings and a big socket or a bearing tool to hammer in the races (using your old bearings!). If you bring it to a shop, they probably won't even bother to press, they'll just use a BFH and a race tool, its quick/easy. Use a short piece of 2x4 to tap in the oil seal. I just saved you 50 bucks, you can paypal me at ....