Poke Runner

So had the engine code PO171 come up and did some searches on this site figured I should clean the MAF sensor.

I found a diagram in one of the threads here on how to take apart the MAF and also consulted my Haines book and both diagrams are similar.

But my 2000 3.4L looks different than the diagrams. There doesn't appear to be any screws and gasket connection from the MAF to the air filter box.

I'm not sure what to do next. Here are some pics. Thanks!

Godzilla

This should help.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...tenancep5.html
You have to disconnect the sensor that is going into the air tube. There are two screws. One is directly to the left of the sensor in the second pic(rounded area) and the other is diagonal and bottom to that one.

Godzilla

Also, it is an easier job if you unbolt some of the junk bewteen the sensor and the fender.

mt_goat

The early 5VZ has a different MAF than the later 5VZ. Your 2000 should just have 2 small screws holding the sensor in the tube. You'll probably have to remove the air box to get to the screws with a screw driver. I replaced my screws with allen head screws so I could remove them easier, same with the TPS screws.

Godzilla

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...crewdriver.jpg

Poke Runner

Thanks Godzilla and Mt_Goat for your tips.

So I wasn't able to get the MAF out and clean it because my superhuman strength malfunctioned again and I stripped the top screw.

Since this little project the other day, the check engine light has not appeared.

If I really wanted to clean the MAF...would I have to replace the whole thing including the air filter box?

Godzilla

Did you try and do it with moving anything out of your way? Well, the best thing to do now, is take out the airbox and use an EZ Out (stripped scew remover) on it.

Roadtripr

I had the same problem (couldn't remove it). I ended up removing the airbox, airfilter and intake give it a bunch of cleaner. Then drain it and let it dry before I put it back together.

Poke Runner

Yeah I removed the thing that is mounted to a little stand that's mounted to the wheel well. That allowed me to remove the lower screw. But that top one must've been forged in there pretty tight.

Spence1016

im glad, i thought i was the only one who had a hard time with this. started out almost stripping the top screw but barely got it. then removed the cruise control to get to the bottom one. stripped it. went to go buy some screw extractors, couldnt fit in the drill so i ended up taking the air box out. did my friends 05 tacoma after and took about 2 minutes because its right on the front of the tube

mt_goat

That's why I took the air box out to do it, so I could put my weight into the screw driver.

jtrent

I got tired of taking the airbox and related items out every time I clean the MAF. This time I simply removed the three bolts holding the cruise control module, unplugged the MAF, and removed the one hose. Then I slid the cruise module over and had easy access with a stubby screwdriver to the MAF electronics. This turned a 2 hour project into a 45 minute one.

BigBallsMcFalls

unbolt the cruise control and move it aside. then u can haz easy access to the maf screws

bootown

Not sure why people are taking other stuff apart to get to the MAF. I can have mine off in one minute...unplug the connector, take out the two screws. All you need is a good screwdriver. I use a small ratcheting one sort of like a mini socket wrench to get a start and then take the phillips bit and spin it by hand. You could probably just use a phillips bit and a wrench or needle nose to loosen it up - then spin by hand. Give it a shot next time, I think you will find it really easy this way.

gpcollen1

Either way - it is only 3 bolts to take the air box out. It takes two minutes. Then you can give it a good cleaning while cleaning the MAF.

4rx

I had a bad maf and tried to clean it but doesnt help. I ended up getting a new one at Toyota dealership. I think it costed me over 200 dollars . I also stripped both screws. not fun.