ssyota

Hey Guys, I just wanted to give a few pointers to you guys thinking of doing you header install your self. I have to tell you that after reading some of the treads about header instulation I was kinda worried about doing this job. It went preaty smooth. I started at 7am this morning and finished at noon.That was with unbolting the old system and eating lunch. So not to bad. I removed the tires and did alot of the work through the wheel wells and under the truck. My hardest part was trying to get the left side (drivers side) in. Mainly cause it has to bend around the back of the motor and over the trans. The old system slid out all from under the truck. The right side (pass side) was a peice of cake. Both new and old. There is a black hoock on the left side that bolts to the motor. Make sure that you put the bottom bolt in before you bolt the header on, or it makes it alittle tuff trying to get the bolt in behind the header. I slid the left side in from the top. Alittle tight but it goes. The right side slides in from the underneath. The only other tuff part was my spring bolts. I talked about this set up on another tread a while back. They were tuff cause you can't get a socket on them. You have to use two wreches alittle at a time. All and all not to bad. It seems to run smoother. It also pulls harder and longer. I won't know for sure until I get it on the dyno and see how they did. I still need to fine tune the URD system. Before I install the headers I got a bung from URD and drilled a hole with a unibit and had it welded in. Those unibits work GREAT. Then I sent them to Jet-Hot and had them ceramic coated. O... I also used a new set of stock manifold gaskets insted of the oring gaskets that came with the set. That way there was no mess with silocone like they want you to do. I bolted everything up loose and the started tightening from the headers and worked my way back to the cat. After it was all tight I started it and let it warm up and rechecked the bolts. I'll give it a day or two and recheck them again just to be safe. I got some pics but I have to reduce them to fit on the site. As soon as I figure that out I'll post them. Well see how they hold up. especialy to the Pa salt.

http://www.puresynthetics.com

Poopshute

I'm sure this has been beaten to death.... maybe some info on performance gains? Are you runnin' N/A or SC? Dyno'd it by any chance? Also, those TRD headers are expensive... did you get a good deal somewhere? Thanks!

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

So you have my Toyota dealer beat. Took em 2 weeks to put the whole exhaust on. That includes them ordering the wrong parts when I handed them the part numbers.

4RunnerFever

congrats on the new headers. I look forward to the dyno results. I've been eyeing those headers for quite some time and have also been worried about the install, but your comments make it seem a reasonable challenge. I can't imagine what the dealer would charge to install them.
Way to go ssyota!

ssyota

I got the before. Now I just need the after. I have it with the before and after with just changing the pulley to a smaller one. I got before and after URD kit too. The red line is before and the blue is after. This is just swapping the pulley. After I installed the URD kit I dynoed it and tuned all stock the way URD wanted it. I had it to were we weren't getting anymore out off it and I swapped the pulley and bamm. From 212 hp to 235hp From 6psi to 10psi, from 250 lb ft to 270 lb ft.

Stock inj w/boost a pump and a 255lpm fuel pump with no cat 190 hp
smaller 11psi pulley 210 lb ft

URD complete fuel kit w/ stock pulley 6 psi 212 hp
250 lb ft

URD complete fuel kit W/ 11 psi pulley 235 hp
270 lb ft

After tuning with the dyno guy I found that he didn't really now how to tune and I wasted money like Gadget is always saying. Don't get me wrong the truck ran great and had pleanty of power but he didn't do anything in my closed loop mapping just open loop. My main problem with that was when I would first start the truck after it was sitting for a while , it would have trouble ideling for a few seconds and then it would clear up. I spoke with Gadget about it and he put me in the right direction but I still need it fine tuned. Now that I have the headers installed and a bung for tuning.I want to get a wideband and start fine tuning.

ssyota

Thanks

From what guys are saying the dealer charges alot. I am also a GM tech but that should not discourage you. You need only a few good tools and a lift if possible.I think if I had to do it on my back I would of paid to have it done.(maybe). I say maybe cause the dealers want so much to do it.My main tools that I used were : 1 can of PB blaster
14mm gear wrench
10mm gear wrench (for the heat sheilds)
14mm short 6 point socket
10mm short 6 point socket ( heat sheilds)
an impact swivel
24'' extension
12'' extention
I put everything on with hand tools.

One important part was AIR TOOLS. If you need to barrow someones air compressor it helps alot on the removal. I got to the crossover nuts through the fender well. I did have trouble with the left side heat sheild bolts. Two would not loosen.Theres only three total. I used an air chisel and ripped the thin shield near the bolts and it came right off. I did take the saw zaw just incase, but I didn't need it.

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

I forget my exact price, I recall it being just under $300. Plus the loaner car I got to beat on for a little bit. Never buy a dealer demo car There is a reason they are so cheap and it's not the test drives

ssyota

Ya I would have to say I do have some money rapped up into my exhaust,but I figure do it once and be done with it. I get tired of paying good money and in a few years my ˟˟˟˟ is rusted and falling off. If you live some where warm and sunny all year long with no road salt I envy you.

I got the TRD cat back stainless (no rust ) $450
I got the TRD headers from TOR for $650
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/members/1730.html with the TRD spring bolt update.

I sent the headers to Jet-Hot and got them sterling coated in and out for $280 that is with the shipping both ways added in.

So with all that ya I did spend ALOT on my exhaust system but I also didn't do it all at once and I didn't do it over night. To drop $1380 all at once would deffinatly be a hit. I got the cat back when my custom dauls were rusting off and then two years later I got the headers and being busted up in the summer it took almost a year later to get them coated and installed. Being that everything is stainless it better last longer that the truck.

BajaRunner

Hows the sound of the exhaust? Any noticble difference?

ssyota

I think. Its all in what you want,and what you plan to do to your truck as far as how much you spend, and what you can afford. I bought my truck new in 98. I got 107k on it and it took me till now to get my headers on. I installed the URD kit at 90K. I had the s/c installed at 24k. So it's all in how you plan it. I got more rapped up into my hood than my exhaust. Then last fall I got a new paint job. I figure you have to work for something you might as well be happy.

ssyota

NO. I would have to say if anything just a little deeper tone,but for the most part you can't tell that they are there by sound.

ssyota

IS there anyone that changed there stock cat out for a free flowing cat. I totaly removed it once and didn't like the out come. Alot loader and a check engine light stairing at me. So I put it back on. Plus the whole law and emission thing here in Pa wasn't worth it.