ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Just an update....all is well.
Tranny is acting perfect with the new blue $140 O'reilly's torque converter.

No leaks in the carport anymore.
RTV is best used on differential installation and not on the oil pan or tranny pan.
FIPG on the oil pan surface was my issue.
Got cork on the oil pan and rubber on the tranny pan and no mo leaks

Now I'm thinking about a A340F shift improvement kit.....give it a little more bite in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.....
something like this....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...-hd2/overview/

did some searching and some good things to say about the kit....
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...o-install.html


I like this idea of sending the valve body in and having them do their magic on it also....
watch the youtube vid....John Lombardo "transdude" !!
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...install-2.html

BearFoot

Great write up!
I'm having some issues with my 2001 4runner trans.
The solenoid kit you bought on Amazon still holding up?

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Yes. It's holding up just fine. Are you getting a code?

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

The cable on the lower right is the throttle cable....upper right is the kickdown cable and , of course, the upper left cable is the ever so important cruise control cable.
Look closely and you can see that I added 5 full turns of removing the excess slack out of the kickdown(about 1/4"). This had a wonderful effect on removing ALL of the delay in shifting 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear. Love it.
No delay or slow shifts. The shift is more "firm". Kind of like a poor man's shift kit. fyi.
ps- I read about it on MUD.



psps---the throttle cable has also stretched in the 16 years of use.....just now tightened it up 5 or 6 complete turns and now have a much more "play free" peddle. You can see in picture #1 above that the throttle cable has 1/4" before the nut contacts the rubber nipple....not so now. Took all that distance out.
see here in picture #2.....see how the throttle cable 12mm lock-nut is right up against the rubber nipple....I'm sure it's not to the fsm spec...but it's to my spec Idle was not effected of course.

BearFoot

Yeah, I was/am getting the P0770 code, first came on about 9 days ago.
Though it's a moot point now, the transmission went out yesterday.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Sure it was the transmission? Not just the TC? Did you get an overheating light?

75w90mantraN

75w90mantraN

Nice work with your Taco, Zuk. Wow. Wish I could see the earlier pics (?). I have a Honda that used to have a different code, 0740 I think, but it disappeared a yr ago and hasn't come back (after I erased the code). I second the fluid changing. I'm paranoid to go with yearly drain/refills. That takes balls to take apart an auto, since there seems to be not a lot of info out there on disassembly compared to manuals. But it's how much we love our Toys.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

I've noticed that some of the photobucket pics drop out....like as if they became corrupted on the server. Not sure what the solution is there. I didn't take my actual transmission apart. And now with the synthetic atf in there I'm hoping for another 200k miles out of it.


No more code 0770. The auto was trouble free for the first 199k miles.....not bad. And the fix was only 300 dollars of "external" parts.....shift solenoids and a cheap Oreillys torque converter. Now being a Checker Auto Parts kind of thing I wonder if the TC will last a couple 100,000 miles or so....
ZUK

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

OK....figured it out....sometimes your computer gets "jacked up" and if you clear the cached images(from beginning of time) then it should load them correctly.
In Chrome....go to "more tools"....then "clear browsing data"......and make sure your browser tab is the "active tab" (with the no show pics) when you clear the cache.....

75w90mantraN

I'll give it a go on my old style google settings. Thanks Zuk. Great detail again. Even the record of maintenance and upgrades is awesome. Whole other thread starter there -

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

There's a ton of keyboard shortcuts(I googled it) and found the one that is really useful per the "clearing the browsing data or the cached images......try this...works in the chrome browser of course....hit Ctrl/Shift/Delete all at the same time. Dadaaaa....now you can quickly delete the cached images.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Speaking of keyboard short cuts, in mozilla you can hit Ctrl + F5 and it will refresh the page without using caching so basically the same as clearing the cache for the single page instead of all history. Not sure if Chrome is the same key combo, it used to be shift + F5 in mozilla but it changed and I suspect it's to match up to other browsers.

kooter77

I finally fixed my P0770 troubles. In the form of an R150. I can't believe the difference the stick makes, especially behind a 3.4 and headers. I have an old A340h if anyone is interested. PM me.

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Are you running the automatic ecu or did you swap to a stick ecu? I've noticed my T100 that came stock as a manual runs extremely well with an automatic ecu compared to 2 other 3.4L pickups that had their orig MT ecu. I have a feeling there might be a fuel mapping difference between the ecu's and for some reason the auto has the better of the two.

kooter77

Once I swapped to M/T, I found a M/T ECU on ebay, and re-pinned it. I wanted the most robust, simplest setup I could find. Manual window cranks, locks, transmission, locking hubs, etc.. The A/T was running so poorly I really couldn't gauge the performance of the engine until I put the r150 in. My ECU is a '97 T100 M/T 4x4, and the engine is an '01 4runner except the throttle body which I got from the '97 T100 since the '01 was throttle by wire. Everything runs so good, I replaced all the IACV, TPS, gaskets, timing belt, oil pump etc etc before I dropped the motor in, I really have no complaints. I am curious though about the A/T ECU. I still have mine, which is currently listed on Ebay. Did you trick yours into thinking it's in Neutral all the time? So you have a stock T100 M/T that you put an A/T ECU in?

atcfixer

iTrader: (1)

Yea I re-pinned my 98 t100 MT harness to match the 97 AT ECU I grabbed. I didn't do anything to fool the ecu, it has 2 or 3 codes about the transmission, but no emission testing in my state. I've read the work around is to trick it into think it's in neutral, but I didn't do anything along those lines. I did have to modify the harness slightly because the 98 used a single signal ground for the crank and cam sensors, and 97 used 2 separate wires. I never drove this t100 before the computer problem, that's how I got it cheap, but I can get rolling about 5mph and punch it and break both rear tires loose with stock 4.10 gearing, truck is a 4x4 extended cab and still has snow tires installed. I've broken a single tire loose when going around a corner and giving it too much gas. My Tacoma with the 3.4L was way slower, I stalled it more often than I like to admit trying to take off easy or with a load and my dad has the same exact probs with his 95 t100. Never had a problem with breaking tires loose when I didn't mean to with the Tacoma lol. I can just about pop the clutch out and the T100 won't stall when empty. No headers or any other mods except an exhaust leak (the whole truck is rusted out lol, but that's Michigan for you) and it leaks between the manifold and exhaust pipe like the gasket is missing.

I'd love to have some extra feedback on the MT vs AT ecu, so far I can only compare different machines since I don't have a 97+ MT ecu to match my engine's injectors and such, and I don't have a 95-96 AT ecu to try in my dad's. I do have a 99 auto Tacoma with the 3.4L and automatic, and it seems to run great just like the T100 and my dad has a 98 4runner with the same story, both of them are 265k miles and 270k+ respectively. 5 different machines and it seems to build a pattern of AT ecu makes the engine run better, but there's no real proof . My dad might be looking into swapping his ecu out for a AT since he's tired of stalling the truck.

75w90mantraN

Accidental post

75w90mantraN

Accidental post

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

An update on my Oreillys torque converter install from just over 1 year ago....It's been making some weird rumbling noises since the last Moab trip. It was only about $140 but it appears the quality is biting me big time. Not sure where to actually get a high quality replacement this next go around this coming December......may get a new OEM one thru TORA or something? More to come.
ZUK
ps-----At least I don't get any more codes