Toyota e-locker gasket: is it necessary?
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Toyota e-locker gasket: is it necessary?
I own an 85 4Runner and have modified the axles to accept the TRD e-lockers. Recently, I had to pull the 3rd members for some axle work, and in the course of removal, ruined the OEM e-locker gaskets.
Do I need replacement gaskets? Or can I get by with some sealant? I was using red RTV before; would that be enough now, without the gaskets?
TIA!
Do I need replacement gaskets? Or can I get by with some sealant? I was using red RTV before; would that be enough now, without the gaskets?
TIA!
#2
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I find a good RTV works better than the paper gaskets. I use Ultra Gray, but anythign that can stand up to gear oil is probably fine. The Toyota red FIPG would probably be the best to use, it is formulated just for that application.
I find the paper gaskets tend to start wicking gear oil out after a few year. They never really leak, but it is always "wet" around the flange.
I find the paper gaskets tend to start wicking gear oil out after a few year. They never really leak, but it is always "wet" around the flange.
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Originally Posted by Mr.mud
What mods did you do to the axel to fit the E-locker and how much did you pay for the E-locker. Any info or links would be very cool. Thanks.
4x4wire.com Article (Best axle housing mod pictures)
Mike Carter's Mods (Better info on building a control circuit). I based my control circuit on Mike Carter's circuit.
Those are not the only sources for modification information.
Parts:
Gasket, studs, nuts, lower wiring harness:
http://www.marlincrawler.com/3rd_pickup.html
Marlin does not (as far as I know) supply a control circuit.
I suggest this wiring harness and this inchworm gear kit. This should supply the electrical control circuit parts necessary to get an e-locker working. I have not used this kit, and it appears that you have to connect/mount/solder the circuit yourself.
This is about a three to four banana job: You will be making un-reversable changes to your axle housing.
I found my parts used with www.car-part.com, which is a parts yard network. Not all yards are connected to this network. In fact, I believe that less than 20% nationwide ARE on this network, but that's just a guess. I suggest you check your local boneyards for parts. I live in a rural/isolated area (Newsweek called it "150 miles from any place you've ever heard of"), and have to deal with mail order USED parts at times.
Prices? I snagged both of mine for between $500-$550 with shipping. I don't know if that is a good deal or not, but it was the lowest I could get. When ordering, make sure they are including the actuator motor with the price. My wiring/installation/electronics (including tools) was maybe $200 more.
Good luck.
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What the...? 3 years and this wacky response?
BTW, I sold that vehicle a few days ago. *Cue spooky music*.
And, I did not use a replacement gasket. I just used some red RTV, and it never leaked a drip. Worked fine.
-Dan
BTW, I sold that vehicle a few days ago. *Cue spooky music*.
And, I did not use a replacement gasket. I just used some red RTV, and it never leaked a drip. Worked fine.
-Dan
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