lesha30

Hi,

There is an anouing ticking noise coming from under the hood. Toyota mechanic told me that it's some kind of valve (I don't remember the exact name for it). Is it possible to make it quiet without changing the engine?

Thanks,

lesha30

Oh yeah, it's a 91 4runner, V6, auto 4x2 with 99K miles on it

Brendan

yup. just gotta adjust valve clearances. mine was doing it and i bought a feeler gauge, but i couldn't get it quiet. i took it into the shop and they fixed it. i have no idea what i was doing wrong because i had the proper clearance specs. oh well, that's my experince.

96redracer

I have the same thing. Here is a thread talking about something like your problem

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...threadid=23045





Red

Waterboy

Does it tick at idle or just when you are driving? I paid $700 at the dealership to get my valves adjusted but that didn't fix my problem. I just needed to replace a $13 seal on the steering shafter at the firewall. The 3.0 has a noisy injector pump. It is on the drivers side of the motor. If you can put your hand on it and feel the tick it is a normal noise. There is some other threads about this where there is some pictures showing the pump.

96redracer

I did not see the year of your runner. I had a 91 truck with the V6 and I was told that at every 75k-100k I had to re-ajust the valves. I did and and the ticking when away. took me about 3 hours to do.



Red

Brendan

wtf? i paid $90 at a shop down the street.

AgRunner06

The 3.slow is a noisy motor. Mine tick but it doesn't really bother me. I'm definitely not going to pay to have the intake manifold removed just to fix a little tick. It's really not all that loud either. It could also be your injectors. When they fire they tick. I personally wouldn't worry about it unless you have the money to blow on a 12 or 13 year old truck.

Maybe I don't know something but I'm fairly certain the 3.slow does not have an injector pump. If it does, please let me know.

My $.02

lesha30

It ticks all the time (when just idling and when pushing it hard too). Do you have a link on udjusting the valves? Can I do it myself? And how much does it usually cost?

AgRunner06

They may have only adjusted the driver's side. To get to the passenger side valves, you have to remove the intake plenum. That is where you really start adding the labor.

I don't know what it requires to actually adjust the valves. I do know that they require shims to adjust them. Maybe Lee will chime in. Apparently he is the Valve Adjustment King.

Waterboy

I could be calling it the wrong thing I think Robinhood had the picture of the part. He said that if you can put your hand on the part and feel the ticking then it is the normal.
Yeah you are right they had to pull the top of my motor off to adjust all of my valves. They told me that two of them were out of spec so I figured that should be the last time I have to have them adjusted. But I got some seals and gaskets replaced in the mean time. All of the shops I called wouldn't even touch my valve train. They said that it needed to take it to the dealership.

Brendan

oh, you're running a v6. i have the 4 banger. didn't see that before. still, that's an expensve bill!

AgRunner06

The only thing I can think of is the fuel pressure regulator. If you put your hand on it you can feel it pulsing. Also if you put a screwdriver on an injector, you can feel it firing.

That's why I'm debating looking for something with the 22re in it. That motor is just so easy to work on, to fix, and even cheap to replace.

Firefyter-Emt

Yep, much like was said, the 3.0 is a noisy motor.. It does not have an injector pump, and none of the fuel system is even on the drivers side of the motor. You have an electric fuel pump in tank, fuel line on passanger side of the motor, filter and into the fuel preasure regulator on the inlet of the RT main fuel rail. This feeds the fuel rails and crossover pipes to the LT fuel rail. The 3.0 has seperate injectors for each cyl. Adjusting the valves is going to be expensive, it is at least a good hard 8 hour day (not sure on flat rate time) and you do not adjust them, you change shimms to get the propper thickness.. (and you have to have the shims in stock too) too much play is better that too tight, but the tollerances are so close it is not funny..

Here is what the shims look like (round shiney things) with the cam off..



And here is what they look like when the cams are torqued back down.




Pretty Eh,


pretty much the largest pain in the *** I have ever had to work on again and again... (not my fault, but sublet work on the heads)

Waterboy

In this thread Robinhood has a picture. This is what I was talking about on the drivers side. I tried it and can feel the tick threw it.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...downey+headers