Taurus fan, Hayden 678, front diff fluid in a 3rd gen (pics)
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Taurus fan, Hayden 678, front diff fluid in a 3rd gen (pics)
Okay got a taurus fan from a 95 Taurus with a 3.0 (non SHO) and it's a 2 speed, costed me $25. Bolted it to the shroud and used the DC Controls controller that Bamachem made famous. I also installed the indicator light, which took some time but I'm glad I did it. So far no problems, but we'll see how it does in July. By the looks of it that Volvo fan seems to be a bit better fitting than the Taurus fan.
Fan and controller
Stock shroud and taurus fan
Okay this past weekend I put in a Hayden 678. I originally had an Imperial (made by Hayden) that equates to a Hayden 679. It was too big. If you can make it fit, you're a better man than I. Even the 678 was a real pain, took 3 hours by the time it was said and done. I used the plastic mounting tabs you can get. Interestingly enough the Hayden costed $65 with no hardware, whereas the bigger Imperial costed $50 and included mounting kit and hardware. So, if you can find the Imperial version of the 678 I'd imagine you'll save $20. They are identical models.
Trans cooler
I also did the front diff fluid, the final step in my 100% synthetic driveline. I wanted to note that my vehicle differed than BobSR5's write up. My front diff was 10mm for both the drain and fill plugs. Interesting....
Fan and controller
Stock shroud and taurus fan
Okay this past weekend I put in a Hayden 678. I originally had an Imperial (made by Hayden) that equates to a Hayden 679. It was too big. If you can make it fit, you're a better man than I. Even the 678 was a real pain, took 3 hours by the time it was said and done. I used the plastic mounting tabs you can get. Interestingly enough the Hayden costed $65 with no hardware, whereas the bigger Imperial costed $50 and included mounting kit and hardware. So, if you can find the Imperial version of the 678 I'd imagine you'll save $20. They are identical models.
Trans cooler
I also did the front diff fluid, the final step in my 100% synthetic driveline. I wanted to note that my vehicle differed than BobSR5's write up. My front diff was 10mm for both the drain and fill plugs. Interesting....
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very cool post, love the pics!!
1 question though... I am consiering doing the fan deal and Im unsure what route to go. DO you have any links or info you can provide as far as the Taurus and/or Volvo units (what models, sizes, cfm ratings or anything) and which one do you feel is better and why?
Thanks mate,
Austin
PS - both of my plugs are 10mm as well
1 question though... I am consiering doing the fan deal and Im unsure what route to go. DO you have any links or info you can provide as far as the Taurus and/or Volvo units (what models, sizes, cfm ratings or anything) and which one do you feel is better and why?
Thanks mate,
Austin
PS - both of my plugs are 10mm as well
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I suggested the Volvo fan over the Taurus fan because from what I've seen it looks like it may fit a bit better in the stock shroud.... that said, I had no problem doing mine. The fan flows some serious air, I have mine set on the low setting but wired it so I can very easily switch to the high setting if I ever need to. I have never actually had a volvo unit in hand so maybe see if Bamachem can get you some measurements and I'd be more than happy to to measure the taurus fan for comparison. Should also be noted that the taurus fan is probably MUCH easier to get your hands on...
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I do indeed have the fan hooked up to a DC Controls controller, but since it is a 2 speed fan you have to choose weather to hook it up to the high or low lead. Since I'm using the controller most people would hook it up to the high, but I'm running to the limits of my 200 amps from the alternator so I want to wait and see how it does on the low setting first.
Performance wise? I can't say it seems any different to me except at the very onset of acceleration. Like when you're at a stop sign and you come off it it seems easier. I don't see any gas mileage increase either but there are too many factors involved to know without really having solid documentation. I check mileage each tank but it varies with how much town versus highway versus interstate driving I do. What I really like is having it quiet at startup, and it seems to get up to temp a bit faster too.
Performance wise? I can't say it seems any different to me except at the very onset of acceleration. Like when you're at a stop sign and you come off it it seems easier. I don't see any gas mileage increase either but there are too many factors involved to know without really having solid documentation. I check mileage each tank but it varies with how much town versus highway versus interstate driving I do. What I really like is having it quiet at startup, and it seems to get up to temp a bit faster too.
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What settings did you set up your dc contoller to? i.e. temp jumpers, U/O drive, did you wire it directly to the battery or use the ignition wire, How did you hook up the AC wire if you used it? I am working on the same project too.
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I put the temp jumper in the lower drivers side of the radiator fins, have the AC wire tapped into the AC compressor which is on the passenger side of the motor (the only wire going into compressor), The main lead is directly on the battery, and the jumper is in the "factory" position, didn't mess with changing when it comes on. Any other questions let me know, I can get you detailed pics later today if you need them.
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Pics would help me out a lot. Your running the temperature setting at 180 degrees? I think that is without any jumpers on the controller for the temp setting, if I'm correct. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.
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Can I get a pic of the wire to the AC and a pic of the controller with the jumper settings? I think that is all I need. Did you get a after market temp gauge installed? Notice any difference with this mod?
Thanks, Tony
Thanks, Tony
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I'll go snap them right now.... I ordered the LED indicator from DC controls for like $10, it's nothing more than an LED and a housing. Read post #6 for differences I noticed. BRB!
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Pics
Wouldn't ya know it the camera battery dies right when I try to take the pics! Well I charged 'er up and here ya go:
Control box with jumper
The quality sucked on that one, but there's nothing to it. The jumper goes in the top 2 pins and nothing else is there.
AC compressor wire
If you are unfamiliar the AC compressor is on the passenger side of the engine at the front. It is driven by a belt and has hoses going into and out of it. On your vehicle it might be hard to see because of the intake, but it's there! There is only 1 wire going into but it is covered by some protective wrap. Cut that away a bit and use a Scotchlock connector to tap into it. The black split loom tubing you see is the wire going towards the unit, I put the split loom on it for protection.
Control box with jumper
The quality sucked on that one, but there's nothing to it. The jumper goes in the top 2 pins and nothing else is there.
AC compressor wire
If you are unfamiliar the AC compressor is on the passenger side of the engine at the front. It is driven by a belt and has hoses going into and out of it. On your vehicle it might be hard to see because of the intake, but it's there! There is only 1 wire going into but it is covered by some protective wrap. Cut that away a bit and use a Scotchlock connector to tap into it. The black split loom tubing you see is the wire going towards the unit, I put the split loom on it for protection.
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I installed the fan and wired most of it up. I have a sensor detecting actual fan speed with a LED attached to the sensor. Basically the sensor detect fan motion by a reflector on the fan. When the reflector comes around the sensor sends a signal to the LED mounted on my dash. The faster the fan spins the faster the LED blinks.
One question I have is about the ignition wire attached to the controller. If this wire is attached the controller shuts off when the engine is shut down, if you don't use the ignition wire, the controller runs for a while (I believe this is how it operates). Is the controller on a timer or set to a certain temp? Another thing is the Under drive/Over drive is linked to the ignition system some how. You can't use the under drive/Over drive without using the ignition wire? Is there away around this? I want the controller on 100% when the AC is on and I want the controller to stay on when the engine is shut down until the engine reaches a cooler temp (either via timer or set temp). Is this possible or am I reaching for the stars? :xmas12: :xmas3:
One question I have is about the ignition wire attached to the controller. If this wire is attached the controller shuts off when the engine is shut down, if you don't use the ignition wire, the controller runs for a while (I believe this is how it operates). Is the controller on a timer or set to a certain temp? Another thing is the Under drive/Over drive is linked to the ignition system some how. You can't use the under drive/Over drive without using the ignition wire? Is there away around this? I want the controller on 100% when the AC is on and I want the controller to stay on when the engine is shut down until the engine reaches a cooler temp (either via timer or set temp). Is this possible or am I reaching for the stars? :xmas12: :xmas3:
Last edited by sandiego; 11-14-2005 at 09:33 PM.
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