romus

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

mtnbkr

Interesting. I've been running Mobil1 in my cars for years now. I started with my 1993 Paseo at 72k miles. I changed the oil every 5k miles. I sold it at 196k miles and it was still running strong. I'm doing the same with my 97 4Runner.

Chris

Nobody

This tempts me to just change filters and leave the Mobil1 in the crank case! - but my con:chicken:science wont let me. It's amazing to me that the viscosity stayed virtually the same-it will be interesting to see how long it will last -
I would like to get as much use out of the oil as possible... considering leaving the Mobil1 in for at least 5000mi and just change the filter at 2500

mtnbkr

I did that for the first 10k miles and then realized that the filter was probably fine for 5k since there are some manuals that specify longer intervals with standard oils and filters.

Chris

AgRunner06

That is some very good reading. If I didn't have oil leaks, I would run synthetic.

HBoss

I used Amsoil and left it in for one year. Did filter changes every 3 months and drove with it a total of approx. 20,000 km (12,500 mi) through hot summer & cold winter. Held up pretty well for the most part:

My analysis

zamboni95

The Porsche Boxer user manual recommends changing the oil every 15k.

Fink

I need to do an Oil Change on my dads '98 Silverado and then while I'm at it and have the tools out I will probably do mine as well. Amsoil or Mobil 1?

For my rig everybody is saying to use Amsoil...what about a '98 Silverado? Any ideas?!?!?!

Thanks guys,

Sorry to take over the thread

RidgeRunner

Here is some additional info on extended drain intervals.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/index.htm

Most European manufacturers recommend 10,000 miles or more.

I regularly change AMSOIL once each year, drive 10,000 to 12,000 miles and change the AMSOIL oil filter at six months. I've done oil analysis and the oil was still good just as this Camaro test shows.

We've been duped by the oil companies to change every 3,000.

Mick

EDGE

Whats the point of synthetic oil if you change your oil at the same intervals as dino oil, aren't you just throwing your money away, I for one am doing 4k changes on Mobil1 dino oil and will probably do 5k cause it is a round number and Toyota says it is fine, when I use up my dino Im using synthetic and going for 10-15k and not changing the filter

edit: I probably would change the filter, maybe add a 2nd bypass one or something, who knows

romus

A friend of mine turned me on the link that I posted. I have never used Synthetic motor oil but I’m thinking of using Mobil 1 super Synthetic motor on my new 2003 4runner when I get 5000 miles on my truck or even 10,000. But I will change my Synthetic motor oil and filter @ the 5000 mile range.

In 1996 I bought a new Camry and used Castro GTX motor oil from day one. The car has over 100,000 miles on it and it runs like new and it looks like new also. Sometimes I would have the Toyota dealer change the oil on the car when it needed a tune-up but most of its life it used Castro GTX. I changed the oil in the car at around 3000 and sometimes @ 5000 miles. When the car turned 100,000 I started using Castor high miles oil in the car. My 96 Camry naturally consume a very small amount of oil when I change the oil @ the 5000 miles range.

In my eyes both oils good

EDGE

My father bought a 94 Camry and changed the oil every 10-15k with regular dino oil, Castrol GTX car never burned oil or smoked, his friend bought it when it had 60 something on it and the car has 200+ now and was sold after seeing how they changed the oil in that I believe all this 3000 mile stuff is overrated

romus

I used 10w 30 oil on the camry only used 5w 30 when the dealer changed the oil. I don’t think any regular motor oil or even Castro GTX oil would hold up in the 10-15k range. Sound like your dad had a magic car.

FirstToy

what does this study mean to retards like me?

I used Mobil 1 in my last truck but I noticed that at oil changes the oil was pretty dark (I change between 5-7K miles) so I wouldn't feel comfortable leaving it in longer.
Before you ask, yes the engine was in perfect running order. No burning oil or anything.

EDGE

I don't think the oil held up either but it was still their after 15k probably more water/fuel and condensation then original oil it did not feel slick, he even went as far as 20k on oil changes, I remember doing 105 on the highway wondering if it would cease

Car actually failed inspection several times but you can expect that of a car with 10k on the oil, just remembered to change the oil before a smog check.

I changed the oil a few times on it and it was black, once or twice he took it to the dealer and they said it had gunk in it but they also told us it needed pads at 12k and the car went to 60k before the pads where replaced

My father got ripped on the car, the dealer hiked the price so he figured he would screw them back, he switched to Nissans and is now back to Lexus, but I make sure the cars get serviced

Nobody

At 9000mi
."Visually the oil is pretty skanky at this point. If we were going on appearance alone we would have changed it a long time ago"

Even though the oil 'looks' bad doesn't necessarily mean it needs changing ...I'm coming to the conclusion that I can greatly increase my oil change intervals.

I think you are perfectly safe at that interval...

Rick F.

I used dino and changed the oil and filter in my 1990 SR5 every 3,000 miles. I sold it at 205,000 miles to a friend and he's added another 25,000 miles to that since. It doesn't burn oil and may use about 1/4 to 1/2 quart every 3,000 miles. Simply put, dino WILL protect your engine as well as synthetic. The issue for me is frequency of oil changes since I drive about 25-30,000 miles/year.

In my 2000 SR5, I began using synthetic at 35,000 after using dino and changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. With synthetic, I'm now changing the oil at 10,000 to 12,000 miles with filter changes at 5,000-6,000. I'd LIKE to extend the oil change to 15-20,000 but I'm a bit leary because of the conflicting info.

Visually, ALL motor oil will turn black simply due to contaminants from the combustion process. These contaminants typically do not impair the ability of the oil to protect an engine, as they are not wear products and don't degrade the oils' protective properties.

RidgeRunner

Rick,

You might try a couple of oil analysis as you extend your drain interval, then use that info as a guide and that way you can have a safety margin. Worth a try.

Mick

BT17R

Another consideration are the factory requirements to maintain your warranty. An oil related claim could be denied if an owner can't prove that the published change interval was completed on time. For the DIY guys like me, keep your oil receipts showing the amount and viscosity, plus the oil filter receipt (stick to OEM during the warranty period), and annotate the maintenance manual when you do the service.

Someone may say that "you can't be denied warranty for aftermarket parts" and quote Magnuson-Moss. But living in the real world, the dealer could void your warranty leaving you with a vehicle with, in effect, a branded title. The legal costs to fight it, assuming arbitration isn't mandatory in your state, are usually prohibitive. The aftermarket manufacturers won't assist you in any legal matter involving a manufacturer, despite their and SEMA's claims to the contrary. It's a political hot potato for them, not wanting to bite the hand that feeds them OEM product to modify in the first place.

Besides, the Toyota filters by almost any analysis I've seen (except for one done in Europe) show they're the equivalent of and superior to most aftermarket filters.

Oh yeah, my vehicles are hangar queens so I change the oil (Mobil 1 Syntec) and filter (Toyota) at 6 months or 3K miles, which usually works out to 2,500 miles, for the placebo effect on me. I still think it's worth it to dump the old stuff that sure looks grungy and diluted by then. As always, my 2¢.

kaneman23

It's no suprise that his TBN leveled off and remained stable... Maybe it's because he added almost 6 quarts of oil on the "top offs"!! His car was consuming oil or he may have spilled too much out when doing the oil sample as well. Either way he kept the oil fresh by the top off's.