Sway Bar End Links
07-13-2010, 06:50 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sway Bar End Links
Hey so just got my lift on and found that I had both Sway bar end links snapped. So I need to replace those boys. But I cant find just those end links.
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07-13-2010, 07:36 AM
#6
End links function like stock.
Quick disconnects have pin to remove links during trail riding.
Put a stock link beside one of mine and it dwarfs it. No comparison between what you get at the local auto parts place.
Buy what you want, just offering options.
Quick disconnects have pin to remove links during trail riding.
Put a stock link beside one of mine and it dwarfs it. No comparison between what you get at the local auto parts place.
Buy what you want, just offering options.
Last edited by waskillywabbit; 07-13-2010 at 07:37 AM.
07-13-2010, 07:51 AM
#7
Quick Disco's are the way to go. The links Brian makes are BEEF. I have them on my 'Runner and love them. 19mm socket/ratchet and the bar is disco-ed in 5 mins or less. Perfect for a weekend wheeling trip!
And flex with the bar disconnected...
Quick Disco's are well worth the money, IMO!
And flex with the bar disconnected...
Quick Disco's are well worth the money, IMO!
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07-13-2010, 08:23 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Wow I bet yall can hear these footsteps running coming up behind you then you hear this voice yelling "I get it I get it!!"
I will be ordering some quick disconnects within the week
I will be ordering some quick disconnects within the week
07-13-2010, 09:13 AM
#10
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You can make your own endlinks that look exactly like those overpriced ones for about $40/pair.
All stainless hardware. Aurora heim joints. All metric. Dick around on McMaster for an hour and you'll find everything you need. I'll snap a pic of the front ones in a bit.
It was a night and day difference handling wise after I put these on. So much more stable on the road. Steering response really sharpened up. Almost no slop when compared to the OEM ball joint links.
Disconnecting the sway bar yields minimal difference in flex, but it does certainly put less strain on the bar and links. And trying to secure the bar so it doesn't contact suspension components or CV boots can be tough.
All stainless hardware. Aurora heim joints. All metric. Dick around on McMaster for an hour and you'll find everything you need. I'll snap a pic of the front ones in a bit.
It was a night and day difference handling wise after I put these on. So much more stable on the road. Steering response really sharpened up. Almost no slop when compared to the OEM ball joint links.
Disconnecting the sway bar yields minimal difference in flex, but it does certainly put less strain on the bar and links. And trying to secure the bar so it doesn't contact suspension components or CV boots can be tough.
07-13-2010, 09:27 AM
#11
You cannot even buy the pair of heims I use for $40.
Again, buy what you want, make what you want, but these are high quality, beefy parts that will last. Never had a set returned for breakage.
07-13-2010, 09:29 AM
#12
You can make your own endlinks that look exactly like those overpriced ones for about $40/pair.
All stainless hardware. Aurora heim joints. All metric. Dick around on McMaster for an hour and you'll find everything you need. I'll snap a pic of the front ones in a bit.
It was a night and day difference handling wise after I put these on. So much more stable on the road. Steering response really sharpened up. Almost no slop when compared to the OEM ball joint links.
Disconnecting the sway bar yields minimal difference in flex, but it does certainly put less strain on the bar and links. And trying to secure the bar so it doesn't contact suspension components or CV boots can be tough.
All stainless hardware. Aurora heim joints. All metric. Dick around on McMaster for an hour and you'll find everything you need. I'll snap a pic of the front ones in a bit.
It was a night and day difference handling wise after I put these on. So much more stable on the road. Steering response really sharpened up. Almost no slop when compared to the OEM ball joint links.
Disconnecting the sway bar yields minimal difference in flex, but it does certainly put less strain on the bar and links. And trying to secure the bar so it doesn't contact suspension components or CV boots can be tough.
07-13-2010, 11:16 AM
#14
07-13-2010, 11:16 AM
#15
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I can buy 6 of the metal/metal joints for the price of one Delrin joint in the extremely rare instance that the cheaper ones wear out.
Flex with swaybars connected:
Last edited by Midget96; 07-13-2010 at 11:24 AM.
07-13-2010, 11:58 AM
#17
Registered User
I was gonna say, what does sway bar have to do with rear flex. lol.
But in a way the lack of compression travel will require more flex from the rear because it forces the truck to go off camber.
as far as the flopping around then you need to secure them better if you are at all.
BTW, I wouldn't use stainless steel on any weight bearing part on my truck anywhere. Which leaves that guy's hack job of a sway bar disconnect out of the question.
But in a way the lack of compression travel will require more flex from the rear because it forces the truck to go off camber.
as far as the flopping around then you need to secure them better if you are at all.
BTW, I wouldn't use stainless steel on any weight bearing part on my truck anywhere. Which leaves that guy's hack job of a sway bar disconnect out of the question.
07-13-2010, 01:56 PM
#18
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I have zero issue cycling my suspension fully with the front bar connected. Ultimate articulation suffers a bit, but you might get 1/2" more front end travel with the bar off. And that's being generous. If you believe the tards claiming 3"+ more travel, then I don't know what to tell you.
None of the pics you have all over the internet show a significant gain in travel. And the ones you have here aren't even taken in the same position.
I was gonna say, what does sway bar have to do with rear flex. lol.
But in a way the lack of compression travel will require more flex from the rear because it forces the truck to go off camber.
as far as the flopping around then you need to secure them better if you are at all.
BTW, I wouldn't use stainless steel on any weight bearing part on my truck anywhere. Which leaves that guy's hack job of a sway bar disconnect out of the question.
But in a way the lack of compression travel will require more flex from the rear because it forces the truck to go off camber.
as far as the flopping around then you need to secure them better if you are at all.
BTW, I wouldn't use stainless steel on any weight bearing part on my truck anywhere. Which leaves that guy's hack job of a sway bar disconnect out of the question.
My links are far from a hack job. They're identical to the overpriced one's in every way except for the heim joints, and there's no way to justify $50 joints for this part.
So go ahead and mess around undoing your links in the dirt and trying to tie up your sway bar so you don't slash your CV boots, tangle your brake lines or allow them to rub your tires at full lock. Unless you're going 100MPH in the desert over whoops or climbing car sized rocks all day, forget it. The only difference you'll feel on most trails is something knocking around underneath. Totally worth it...
Last edited by DeathCougar; 07-13-2010 at 02:12 PM. Reason: language
07-13-2010, 02:43 PM
#19
I'll get some measurements tonight.
How would we not benefit? The sway bar is connected to both lower control arms right? Thus limiting the down travel of each, independently? With it disconnected the front suspension is "freed" up and therefore will articulate better... I see the logic in the concept, I have also seen it first hand.
That being said - I do not have any issue with my bar staying in the same position when I remove the links. It simply stays there. In the same location as if the links were still there. When it's connected it doesn't interfere with the steering or CV's. It still doesn't when it's discoed. Not sure who's having trouble with loose bars...
I don't know who claimed 3"+ of travel either... Don't beleive I've seen that spec anywhere personally...
How would we not benefit? The sway bar is connected to both lower control arms right? Thus limiting the down travel of each, independently? With it disconnected the front suspension is "freed" up and therefore will articulate better... I see the logic in the concept, I have also seen it first hand.
That being said - I do not have any issue with my bar staying in the same position when I remove the links. It simply stays there. In the same location as if the links were still there. When it's connected it doesn't interfere with the steering or CV's. It still doesn't when it's discoed. Not sure who's having trouble with loose bars...
I don't know who claimed 3"+ of travel either... Don't beleive I've seen that spec anywhere personally...
Last edited by Kregg; 07-13-2010 at 03:30 PM. Reason: Added to... :)
07-13-2010, 03:44 PM
#20
Registered User
They've been making disconnects for coil sprung solid axle Land Rovers and Jeeps for years. Solid axle's typically benefit more from them, but even then, they're not needed in this application.
I have zero issue cycling my suspension fully with the front bar connected. Ultimate articulation suffers a bit, but you might get 1/2" more front end travel with the bar off. And that's being generous. If you believe the tards claiming 3"+ more travel, then I don't know what to tell you.
None of the pics you have all over the internet show a significant gain in travel. And the ones you have here aren't even taken in the same position.
Please explain exactly what "weight bearing" part of the truck end links support? The sway bar? Transferring weight, yes. Bearing weight, hell no. There's no way an M12 rod is going to snap; the endlink eyelets or drop brackets for the bar will fail long before that happens. I'm not using a ghetto clevis pin to secure the link, either.
My links are far from a hack job. They're identical to the overpriced one's in every way except for the heim joints, and there's no way to justify $50 joints for this part.
So go ahead and mess around undoing your links in the dirt and trying to tie up your sway bar so you don't slash your CV boots, tangle your brake lines or allow them to rub your tires at full lock. Unless you're going 100MPH in the desert over whoops or climbing car sized rocks all day, forget it. The only difference you'll feel on most trails is something knocking around underneath. Totally worth it...
I have zero issue cycling my suspension fully with the front bar connected. Ultimate articulation suffers a bit, but you might get 1/2" more front end travel with the bar off. And that's being generous. If you believe the tards claiming 3"+ more travel, then I don't know what to tell you.
None of the pics you have all over the internet show a significant gain in travel. And the ones you have here aren't even taken in the same position.
Please explain exactly what "weight bearing" part of the truck end links support? The sway bar? Transferring weight, yes. Bearing weight, hell no. There's no way an M12 rod is going to snap; the endlink eyelets or drop brackets for the bar will fail long before that happens. I'm not using a ghetto clevis pin to secure the link, either.
My links are far from a hack job. They're identical to the overpriced one's in every way except for the heim joints, and there's no way to justify $50 joints for this part.
So go ahead and mess around undoing your links in the dirt and trying to tie up your sway bar so you don't slash your CV boots, tangle your brake lines or allow them to rub your tires at full lock. Unless you're going 100MPH in the desert over whoops or climbing car sized rocks all day, forget it. The only difference you'll feel on most trails is something knocking around underneath. Totally worth it...
Dude first and foremost, watch the language as this IS a FAMILY website. I also do not appreciate the name calling either. I do not tolerate it.
Nowhere in Wabbits site does it say he is using stainless. His is what looks to be grade 8 or better rod that is zinc'd and galvanized. Far cry from weak stainless steel.
I am sorry, a sway bar takes alot of weight from a vehicle. This is what prevents it from rolling.
Have you ever seen a sway bar bend? I have. What causes that? hmmmmm I don't know maybe 3,000 lbs slinging around left and right. Why do I know this? Sway bars get alot of abuse on SCCA track cars. Been there done that. As a driver and pit crew.
So I say again, I will not use stainless steel on any weight bearing part of any vehicle.
Also probably not a good idea to bash on someone's products that have been tested on many vehicles already in alot of different applications.
What's yurs on? Oh that's right your truck.
Oh by the way, don't be surprised if your title changes on here.
