supercharger rattling noise on boost
#1
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Location: Albany, NY
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supercharger rattling noise on boost
I think I am experiencing some ping but I'm not sure.
My truck has S/C, URD and deckplate mods. I bought it used so I don't know about this install. From what I was told the S/C should have about 25k miles on it. Truck has 52k total miles. I am running 93 octance.
I can most easily reproduce in fourth gear at about 2k-3k RPM's at 3/4 to full throttle. It sound like a mechanical rattling but seems to subside as the revs get above 3k RPMs.
Does this sound like ping to you guys? I am hoping it is a fueling issue so I can iron it out with the URD software. If it truly was a mechanical problem I don't think the noise would only happen at certain RPM/throttle combinations.
Any help is greatly appreciated cause I'm a NEWB!
My truck has S/C, URD and deckplate mods. I bought it used so I don't know about this install. From what I was told the S/C should have about 25k miles on it. Truck has 52k total miles. I am running 93 octance.
I can most easily reproduce in fourth gear at about 2k-3k RPM's at 3/4 to full throttle. It sound like a mechanical rattling but seems to subside as the revs get above 3k RPMs.
Does this sound like ping to you guys? I am hoping it is a fueling issue so I can iron it out with the URD software. If it truly was a mechanical problem I don't think the noise would only happen at certain RPM/throttle combinations.
Any help is greatly appreciated cause I'm a NEWB!
#2
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Yeah... it sounds like ping. My first thought in reading the thread title was that you needed a nose rebuild, but how it reacts to the RPM range leans towards it being ping.
Fire up the FTC1 software and kick the timing down.
I trust that you're running 91 octane or better for fuel? And where are you in the world?
Fire up the FTC1 software and kick the timing down.
I trust that you're running 91 octane or better for fuel? And where are you in the world?
#4
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'k... I asked about location 'cause of altitude things. (thanks for updating the location in your profile!).
Anyway... pull out the FTC1 software and a laptop, hit Gadget's tuning guide (it was on the site but I can't find it now - maybe write them?) and get that timing cranked down.
Ping is bad - but then I bet you know that.
Anyway... pull out the FTC1 software and a laptop, hit Gadget's tuning guide (it was on the site but I can't find it now - maybe write them?) and get that timing cranked down.
Ping is bad - but then I bet you know that.
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I found the tuning guide here: http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
The problem I am having seems to be the same as documented on page 25-26. It says that I should increase the retard in the cells where I hear knock. Does this sound right? What increments should I be changing the values by, 1/2 degree at a time?
The problem I am having seems to be the same as documented on page 25-26. It says that I should increase the retard in the cells where I hear knock. Does this sound right? What increments should I be changing the values by, 1/2 degree at a time?
Last edited by brosher; 05-01-2006 at 07:14 AM.
#6
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Originally Posted by brosher
I found the tuning guide here: http://www.gadgetonline.com/U-Tune.pdf
The problem I am having seems to be the same as documented on page 25-26. It says that I should increase the retard in the cells where I hear knock. Does this sound right? What increments should I be changing the values by, 1/2 degree at a time?
I don't run an FTC1 in my truck (I run a similar box from PerfectPower) but in looking at the doc, it looks like a postive number in the field will "increase the retard", and the numbers are relating to degrees of timing. So...
I would start tossing whole numbers in there... If you dial in too much retard, then the worst that can happen (to a point) is that you'll lose more power than you have to.
I'd work it much like Gadget says... dial in retard until the knock goes away, then see if you can back off 1/2 a degree and still keep it inaudible. Remember though, ping isn't always audible int he cab (especially with the S/C wound up and the deckplate open) so just 'cause you can't hear it doesn't mean it's not there. The point being, erroring on the safe side by having a bit too much retard can save you an engine.
Good luck - and have fun!
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