Fink

Well...thanks go AgRunner...I am going to Landers (my local Yota Dealership) and getting...Rotor, Cap, Wires, Plugs, and a Fuel Filter. And I am going to take it somewhere else to put it all in for me. Sounds like a winner to me!

Thx. for all your help guys!

I'll keep you posted, no pun intended, about how it all goes!

KING

You guys complaining about 80/ 90 degrees when here the average this week was 115 with 80% humidity.

mtnfreak

Big change from the 8% humidity you normally have, huh? That storm took a weird track, but it's kept our humidity fairly high, for here, not like you'll find in Oregon or Pennsylvania or Arkansas. We've even topped 50% on a couple of days and haven't dropped into the single digits in a week or so. Sure helps with the fire danger.

Citykid

I've heard good & bad reasons to use anti-seize. What's the consensus here?

AgRunner06

I've never heard anything bad about using anti-seize.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

It was a Sunday a long long time ago.
I had a '79 Toyota 2WD truck, my introduction to the world of Toyotas.

The next day on Monday was my first day to report to Boeing for my job there.
I was changing plugs in the engine, and all of a sudden one broke in half.
Not good

I had changed them before in that rig in the past, and had not put on the anti seize.
My brother in-law came over and we tried to use an Easy Out on it, but had no luck.

I had to drive it that way a few miles to a local mechanic and drop it off, and then picked up a rental car that day so I would be assured I made it to Boeing.
Monday when I got off work the truck was ready, as the mechanic got the broken plug out.

He said to use anti seize on Toyota plugs all the time.
Lesson learned.

kyle_22r

on my '84 2wd, when changing the plugs for the first time, one took half the threads out because it was seized so bad, and another was crossthreaded thefore completely shot. i swear some people(like the guy i bought it from) shouldn't be allowed to install spark plugs

had to have my dad help me tap 2 new holes, not fun considering how far down they are

on my new(old) truck, i won't take any chances. all the new plugs got anti sieze on them, and the old ones had remnants of the stuff when i inspected them

Fink

PLUGS ARE CHANGED AND TRUCK IS RUNNING PERFECT!

They used Bosch Platinum...not my favorite brand due to what you guys said about Bosch's before but they did it for free! The dealer said he would cover it because the rig needed it before I bought it. Anyway...lemme know about the plugs, the mechanic also said something about the injector being "noisy" or something...he said I should put some injector cleaner in it...ANY IDEAS?!?!?

Thanks for all your help guys!

Any more comments are welcome!

Corey

iTrader: (1)

This was a Toyota dealer?
The Bosch's are not going to last as long, as the plats are a softer plug and the electrodes will burn quicker.

Next time go with the 2 brands of plugs that were mentioned earlier, and they will last longer for you.

22RE & 3.0 injectors are noisy, and even cleaned they will still make some noise, that's just the mechanical part of them working.

But for cleaning, there are numerous threads here about what to use.
Search for BG44K & Amsoil injector cleaner, and you will get many hits.
I use to use the former, now I use the latter, as it's way more economical to buy it by the gallon from my Amsoil dealer.

If they are real dirty, you have two choices.
1. Find a shop that does the Snap on! Motor Vac system (it's in the search here) or a machine that is like it.
Service runs about $100 to $120.

2. Dealer can pull the injectors for you, send them to a carb/injector shop and have them ultra sound cleaned, reinstall, and be done in one day for a little less than $500.

I'd go for the #1 job if it was me, just because it's cheaper, and also good preventive maintenance to have that done, as it also cleans your upper fuel rails.
I will be getting it done before fall sets in.

I went with the #2 option fall of '99, as my rig dropped down to 7 mpg, and ran like crap.
Two injectors died on me and were not working, and the ultrasound cleaned them all to like new condition.
Also that is archived here also in a few posts by me on injector cleaning.

Fink

Well...given my financial status as of now, I will try the injector cleaner first. The performance isn't being affected at all as far as I can tell.

When I accelerate, there is sort of a loud rattling (not sure if thats the word) but like a buzzing when I punch it...but that goes away at higher gears.

But as of now, everything is running smooth. All the guy said was that they sound noisy. I doubt they require much...

What are some signs of them needing that ultrasound deal? Is it pretty obvious...I will run a search on the injector cleaner.

Once again Corey, thanks a lot!



EDIT: And to answer your first question, this was not the Toyota dealer, this was the dealer I got it from (non-Toyota), but I watched him closely and he did a pretty good job from what I can tell. But like I said, he did it for free, so if I have get the plugs replaced again...I'm only out that money, no more. I think I am going to look for some Techron Injector Cleaner tomorrow at my local auto parts store...if they don't have it, the Wal-Mart up the street might...if not, I will have to get online (maybe).

kyle_22r

didn't bosch design the 22r series heads?

Nam

I am going to change the plugs on my 3.4 as soon as I get them. 65K miles seem to be the right time for new plugs. I will let you know how hard it is going to be. I am no more than just an ordinary DIY person; however, I strongly belive that I can do it!

So wish me luck! thanks,

Nam

Fink

Goodluck man, welcome to the forum too!

What kinda plugs are you gonna use?

surferfrank

I recently replaced my cap, rotor, and NGK plugs. I used Bosch platinum plugs instead of NGK and I'm getting a slight knock or ping around 65 mph.
Has anyone experienced this even after checking the timing? The timing is right on 10 degrees.
I use 87 Octane fuel. Maybe that's the reason, but I'm not too sure. Gas is really expensive in Northern California!!!
$1.90 average. What a rip.

BTW, Is there a way to check the O2 sensor without taking it to a shop?

Fink

Hmm...I've got Bosch Platium plugs and the engine is fine at 65+ mph, I was going about 90 the other day on my way to work and it was fine...I will listen a little more carefully next time though, I was listening to music and then on the phone while I was driving and maybe thats why I didn't hear anything. I will check it out though...



PS: Welcome to the Forums Frank!

keisur

Check out his title under his screen name. We should call him Sensei.

I use Bosch Plat +4's since about 60k, it's a 3rd gen and I was going to change them soon too.

TDiddy

Or Grand Poo-Bah. We just need a pic of Corey wearing a fez...

Nam, I canged the plugs in my '98 last year. It couldn't have gone any smoother if I tried. I'd just suggest getting a REALLY long extension for your socket wrench and you'll be fine.

surferfrank

Thanks for the reply...

I bought a set of NGK's today as per Corey's suggestion in a previous thread. If anything, I'll be able to compare the Bosch Platinum vs. the NGK for the knocking problem.
I just upgraded my exhaust to a 2.25" - 18" Magnflow muffler and tailpipe along with a K+N FIPK. It sounds great and if I remember correctly, the old plugs NGK plugs seemed better than the Bosch.
I also dumped a bottle of Chevron Fuel Injector cleaner in the tank to be sure its not a dirty injector issue.

I'll let you guys know what if the NGK's work out the knocking problem...


_______
1990 - V6 4 runner

Scofco

So much for letting us know

Maddog

I changed my own plugs last friday,I used NGK V-groove.
It wasnt as hard as i expected,infact it would have been even easier if i had one of those joint adaptors(the bendy one).I had some decent size extension's(approx 12") so i could do it with out having to be bent over all day,I removed the intake pipe's between the A/filter & T/body(easy),that gave me easy access to that side,& only the back plug on the other side is hard to get to,(this is where a joint adaptor would be handy)If your lucky you can squeze a extension down to it ,but i had to just get in there with nothing more than the rachet,it was a little slow going because of lack of space to crank the rachet.
so overall ,I think it was quite easy,& it only took about 3/4 of an hour ,give or take.I also cleaned the thottle body while i had the intake off,so it was two birds with one stone there.
If you have a decent socket set with extensions...Do it yourself its not that hard.& you feel good about it later.