wvuviv30

someone keeps stealing my OIL.

Well I have a 3VZE... about every 800-1000 miles I am putting in a 1-1.5 quarts of oil if I let it go that long that long with out checking it. But if I check it once a week or over 100 miles I have already lost a 1/2 quart of oil.

I haven't done a compression check, yet, but I am plannig on doing one tomorrow. I did pull a couple of plugs (the easy ones) and they one was soaking wet in oil, the other 2 had oil residue on them.

Any one know of what is happening? is it time for engine? I have 138K miles on the engine, headgasket was changed at 62K miles...

Yota4runner

Is it running hot at all? or can you smell any oil being burnt? You may have a slow leak thats not getting to the ground. I would check that first.

KING

Looks like I am walking those same steps.

I am at 122K and I have to add about a quart every 1500 miles; otherwise, no oil mark on the dipstick will be apparent when checking.

Head gasket was done roughly at about 60K.

wrenchmonster

Sounds like you have bad rings and that you are burning oil. Do you notice any smoke on start up? Any smoke cruising down the road? Smoke on start up may suggest bad valve stem seals. Smoke while cruising down the road can indicate bad rings. OH, don't forget the PCV system. How's your PCV valve? If it is stuck open it could be burning off oil. What viscosity oil are you using? Check these few things first. If you suspect an external leak, put a tracer dye in your oil and look for leaks with the black light.

-Wrench

bubbamango

i wouldn't think you'd need a new engine at that mileage. i had a '90 with over 150,000 miles and never leaked or used excess oil. the engine is a workhorse and i have heard of many running several hundred thousand miles.

bubbamango

wrenchmonster

how difficult or expensive is it to replace the rings?

wrenchmonster

Diffiluct or expensive? Well, it all depends on your experience and pocket book. Some engines (I can't think of one built after 1968) you can actually remove the pistons from the bottom. However, in most cases, one must remove the heads as the pistons can only be removed and reinstalled from the top. Once you're in the cylinder you have to have the tools and knowledge to measure the cylinder and determine if you can hone it out, or if it needs to be sent to the machine shop. You have to be able to measure and inspect the rings in the cylinder, inspect the pistons, connecting rod, bearings, etc. And you have to have all the proper tools to do this. OR you can just R&R the block and have a machine shop go through it. From my perspective this isn't difficult, but keep in mind I do this EVERY day and have for years. I'm an ASE certified Master Technician, with over 9 years wrenching experience. I just bought my Toyota, so I'm still a newbie in the Yota world. Having never done the job on the 3vze I can't tell you for certain, but it's not a job for someone who is impatient or very inexperienced.

-Wrench

bubbamango

thanks for the detailed information wrenchmonster. for someone like me, it would definitley be an expensive deal. i wouldn't attempt it myself. i'm not quite that wrench-savvy.

KING

In simpler terms, you're looking at an engine rebuild?

wvuviv30

It doesn't run hot according to the stock gauge.

I have blue smoke blowing blowing for the first 10-15 mins if running... that is about 1-2 mins of warm up then going... Oil is a mix of everything right now, cause I can't keep it in... I am bouncing between 10w-30, 15w-30 and 20w-30... it all depends on what the gas station has on the shelf..

Going to check the PCV tomorrow.

wrenchmonster

WV, yes, check the PCV vavle. The amount of oil consumption that you describe is rather large. You may have a two/three-fold problem here, that is, bad stem seals, external leaks, bad rings.

Change your oil and use the proper viscosity oil. Stay away from any recycled oils. Do you have any misfires?

More on bad rings... If your engine heats up and stops burning oil after full temp, try going up a steep hill and mash the pedal. Do you burn oil under this condition? That is, under heavy load?

Also, when doing your compression test do a dry test, then put a squirt of autotranny fluid in the cylinder and do your compression test again. Does the wet test significantly improve your compression?

You describe oil burning on start up... If your rig is already warm, and you let it sit for say 1/2 hour and you restart does it burn oil again?

-Wrench

wvuviv30

wrench...
going up a hill = no power... not truely sure if it smokes going up a hill.
external leaks, I don't think I have any.

DirtCheap

You could also have a stuck oil ring, try an engine flush or additive like "Seafoam".

wvuviv30

I used seafoam abour 10k miles ago. since using it, oil has disappeared quicker.

93ToyKid

My 93 3.0 burns about 3/4 quart every thousand miles. It smokes a lil while on start up (2-3 mins maybe?) And then she's quits and doesn't smoke until the next cold start. I don't worry about it. I know the valve guides are leaking, but it's not too big a deal. My dad had one that burnt a quart every thousand when it was new, and they wouldn't do anything about it. Normal they said. Now, I know burning oil isn't normal, but I think your engine is fine. Mine also has a bad oil leak. Try adding some engine restore to your oil. Great stuff.........helped decrease my oil burning. I wouldn't fret. Now, if it smokes when you get on the gas, THEN you gots a bigger problem. Mine has 170k, so I'm thinking of just rebuilding the heads (never had a prob with the head gasket....yay!) and runnin her another 100k. Good luck!

wrenchmonster

Sorry, but some oil burning IS a normal condition. It just depends on how FAST the oil consumption is. Afterall, what do you think lubricates the cylinder walls?

-Wrench

jimbo74

um on a new car, there is no way it should be using that much oil.....

abalagtas

If you do end up needing to rebuild the bottom-end, try checking these guys out first. link

They may still have some 3.0 short blocks.