bamachem

Look guys, this is VERY straight forward. You're making this into WAY more than it really is.


DO NOT POST PRO/CON COMMENTS ON THIS THREAD - NO HIJACKING. THERE IS ANOTHER THREAD FOR COMMENTS - EITHER PRO OR CON - POST YOUR OPINIONS THERE. THIS THREAD IS FOR THE PROCEDURE TO USE SEAFOAM ONCE YOU DO YOUR HOMEWORK AND DECIDE TO DO IT.



1. Buy 3 cans of Seafoam, an Oil Filter, and 6 qts of your favorite flavor of oil, and make sure you have less than a half-tank of fuel in your gas tank
2. With engine running, slowly pour 1/3 can into intake plenum via PCV hose
3. Quickly shut off engine
4. Sit for 30 minutes
5. Start engine and blow out white smoke
6. Repeat steps 2-5, but waiting only 5 minutes this time
7. Dump 2 cans into gas tank ( for 1/4 tank or less, 1-1.5 cans is enough)
8. Dump remaining 1/3 can into crank case via oil filler cap
9. Drive to gas station (~10 miles) with heavy throttle & high RPM's to clean injectors
10. Fill up tank and drive home (normal driving)
12. Change oil and filter

(request from the original thread to post step-by-step directions)
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35112

Buy it at Napa, ebay, etc. About $5/ can.

Here's their website: http://www.seafoamsales.com/

and here's what you want to look for:




1. I'm not selling the ˟˟˟˟ and I don't make a penny whether you use it or not. The information in this thread was requested so I posted the steps so they'd be easy to find. If you have your doubts, then keep your comments to yourself or start your own thread. While you're at it, I'd apprecaite it if you'd refrain from airing your derogatory comments here since it's nothing but clutter.

2. For the rest of you with LEGITIMATE questions, simply give it a try. If you can't figure it out using the steps I outlined above, then I can't help you. If you rev up the engine while it's smoking, then logic should tell you that the fumes will be burned quicker and more vigorously. Either it idles for 5 minutes w/ a little smoke, or you rev it up for a minute or so and blow it out quickly. Same effect either way.

3. If you have sludge in your engine, then you have MUCH bigger problems than some carbon buildup and you should seek professional help because it's only a matter of time before you're looking at an engine swap. If you do have sludge and you use this in the crankcase, then yes, you could knock loose some of it, possibly clogging an oil port and possibly gumming up the oil pump. It's your call - but if you don't change your own oil, then this probally isn't for you.

4. Use it with whatever flavor oil you want, but just plan on changing it whether you use it just in the intake or all over. If you have to change it anyway, why not clean the crank while you're at it?



Seafoam is:

40-60% "Pale Oil"
25-35% Naptha
10-20% IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol)

"Pale Oil" : A base or process oil refined until its color, by transmitted light, is straw to pale yellow. Can be of multiple origins included natural agricultural hydrocarbons or distillates of crude petroleum.

Naptha : A non-carcinogenic aromatic hydrocarbon that is typically used as a petroleum, hydrocarbon, or organic solvent.

IPA : Isopropyl Alcohol or "Rubbing Alcohol", used as a topical treatment for medical uses or as an industrial solvent in various applications.

The pale oil is basically the medium that the carbon dissolves into, allowing it to be carried away or burned. The naptha is the agent that dissolves the carbon. The IPA will dissolve some of the lighter varnishes, but mainly it acts as a "bridge" that will allow any water present to be totally misicible with the pale oil. This is why they say it will "dry" the oil in the crankcase. The IPA will mix with both water (polar) and oils (non-polar), allowing the water to mix with the oil instead of separate from it. After adding Seafoam to the crank and running it a few minutes, you should change the oil to remove the loosened contaminants and any water than may have been present in the crankcase or engine.