Rough running and clicking
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Rough running and clicking
Okay, I tried a search but really don't have specific keywords.
Anyway, When I came home this morning, just before I shut off, I heard a loud clicking sound. Didn't think much of it at the time.
Well, I just started it up after sitting for a few hours, and got the clicking from the engine, thick smoke from the exhaust, and a rattling
sound somewhere from underneath the chassis. Maybe near the muffler.
It's very cold, very dark, and very wet so getting under there for a good inspection is pretty difficult.
It also ran pretty rough, and of course, the two dummy lights came on (the VSC TRAC and TRAC OFF lights).
I am at 123,000 miles.
I know, I know, this sounds pretty vague. I don't even know if this would make it to the mechanic. But I know to throw this out to you guys before I
take it anywhere.
Anyway, When I came home this morning, just before I shut off, I heard a loud clicking sound. Didn't think much of it at the time.
Well, I just started it up after sitting for a few hours, and got the clicking from the engine, thick smoke from the exhaust, and a rattling
sound somewhere from underneath the chassis. Maybe near the muffler.
It's very cold, very dark, and very wet so getting under there for a good inspection is pretty difficult.
It also ran pretty rough, and of course, the two dummy lights came on (the VSC TRAC and TRAC OFF lights).
I am at 123,000 miles.
I know, I know, this sounds pretty vague. I don't even know if this would make it to the mechanic. But I know to throw this out to you guys before I
take it anywhere.
#4
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Location: Valencia, CA
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Not sure about the clicking, but my 2nd gen 4Runner had the catalytic converter honeycomb collapse. Pieces obstructed the exhaust & made the engine run rough & I had significant power loss until it blew out the exhaust. I had a rattle from the muffler for several months as the pieces worked their way out.
Unfortunately a loud clicking noise from the engine could be a bent/ burned or broken valve, or a damaged piston or rod. The rattle could be from some internal pieces stuck in the exhaust.
good luck,
Paul
Unfortunately a loud clicking noise from the engine could be a bent/ burned or broken valve, or a damaged piston or rod. The rattle could be from some internal pieces stuck in the exhaust.
good luck,
Paul
#5
Open the hood and follow the sound to see where it is coming from. If it is from the engine it could be anything from sticky lifters to broken internals. How does it idle? How about when you rev it?
With that many miles a clogged cat is very possible as SoCalP mentioned.
With that many miles a clogged cat is very possible as SoCalP mentioned.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, I had it towed to the Stealership. Very bad knocking when trying to accelerate.
Apparently a spark-plug broke and fell into the cylinder. They fished it out,eventually, through the hole instead of taking the heads off. But they were unable to re-tap the hole. So I need a new head.
New: $2900 parts and labor
Used: $2300 parts and labor
And I have to wait a week to get the parts.
Now before I get it from you guys realize that I am in a bad position. I need my truck, daily driver, and it is already at the shop. I can't exactly leave it there and shop around asking mechanics for a better price on a head and labor. Nonetheless, here is my situation.
Apparently a spark-plug broke and fell into the cylinder. They fished it out,eventually, through the hole instead of taking the heads off. But they were unable to re-tap the hole. So I need a new head.
New: $2900 parts and labor
Used: $2300 parts and labor
And I have to wait a week to get the parts.
Now before I get it from you guys realize that I am in a bad position. I need my truck, daily driver, and it is already at the shop. I can't exactly leave it there and shop around asking mechanics for a better price on a head and labor. Nonetheless, here is my situation.
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#8
That is really odd. I've never heard of that. Did they give you the broken piece? I've heard of spark plugs being ejected out but never breaking. Where they stock denso/ngk plugs? Which cylinder was it?
At any rate if its just the plug hole that need to be fixed then take it out of the dealership and to a local shop that will repair it using heli coil. This should cost no more that 150-200. They even sell some thread repair kits if you want to do it your self. I had to heli coil some threads on a shifter and they work great. No need to replace the heads unless they are damaged.
Hope that helps.
At any rate if its just the plug hole that need to be fixed then take it out of the dealership and to a local shop that will repair it using heli coil. This should cost no more that 150-200. They even sell some thread repair kits if you want to do it your self. I had to heli coil some threads on a shifter and they work great. No need to replace the heads unless they are damaged.
Hope that helps.
Well, I had it towed to the Stealership. Very bad knocking when trying to accelerate.
Apparently a spark-plug broke and fell into the cylinder. They fished it out,eventually, through the hole instead of taking the heads off. But they were unable to re-tap the hole. So I need a new head.
New: $2900 parts and labor
Used: $2300 parts and labor
And I have to wait a week to get the parts.
Now before I get it from you guys realize that I am in a bad position. I need my truck, daily driver, and it is already at the shop. I can't exactly leave it there and shop around asking mechanics for a better price on a head and labor. Nonetheless, here is my situation.
Apparently a spark-plug broke and fell into the cylinder. They fished it out,eventually, through the hole instead of taking the heads off. But they were unable to re-tap the hole. So I need a new head.
New: $2900 parts and labor
Used: $2300 parts and labor
And I have to wait a week to get the parts.
Now before I get it from you guys realize that I am in a bad position. I need my truck, daily driver, and it is already at the shop. I can't exactly leave it there and shop around asking mechanics for a better price on a head and labor. Nonetheless, here is my situation.
#9
Not sure how original poster had his fixed?
But here was the thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/c...o-high-161343/
But here was the thread:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/c...o-high-161343/
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well, just an addition. I am going to get the old head back so I can inspect it. Maybe the plug too, if it wasn't thrown out.
While the engine was apart they found the tension pulley was rusted. Will replace for $69 and no labor since the engine is already apart.
And they saw they my water pump is leaking. I know this is a case of the "Might as wells" but at 123k miles, I think the pump should be replaced.
They said something like $220.
Now this wasn't an accident but can my insurance cover any of this?
While the engine was apart they found the tension pulley was rusted. Will replace for $69 and no labor since the engine is already apart.
And they saw they my water pump is leaking. I know this is a case of the "Might as wells" but at 123k miles, I think the pump should be replaced.
They said something like $220.
Now this wasn't an accident but can my insurance cover any of this?
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