ManyMods

Yes, that is what my dealer told me. I guess that is a new automotive technical term. I'll explain: I took my truck in for a whole list of service work that only someone as neurotic about their vehicle as I would want. Things like changing the fuel filter, flushing the transmission and dropping the pan to clean the pan and filter (I have change the screen on occasion too), flushing the brake system, lubricating the caliper sliders or replacing them if the pads needed to be replaced, and draining and replacing the differential fluids.

When I picked up the truck they had done none of that work and they announced to me that they would not touch the differential because it would disintegrate if they turned the filler plug. “MY REAR END WAS ROTTED”. I was incredulous.

The cost to replace the entire rear end would be $2800 or about half that for a remanufactured one with a 1-year warranty. WTF!!!

I took it to my own mechanic, not a Toyota mechanic, and he confirmed it was rusted through and leaking; it needed to be replaced. But what he could not understand, knowing how meticulous I am about my vehicle, is that forward of the differential everything was fine but from the rear U-joint back it was all rusted including the brake backing plates. Has anyone else had this experience and is this another one of those don’t tell Tacoma frame epidemics in the making? My truck has 89K miles on it.

scuba

You're not the first to have the rear end rot out on a 3rd gen.
Buy a junkyard housing.

Teuf

Yea ditto on the junkyard purchase. My advice is to do more of the maintenace work yourself that way you see things that might otherwise surprise you down the road.

ManyMods

Thanks guys. I am getting a junkyard housing and swapping the guts. I used to do more of the maintenance myself but I don't have the time anymore with a business to run and other time consuming activities. I rely on my mechanic to inspect the vehicle when it is in for service and LMK when there is a problem.

So tell me, is it only the Gen 3 4R's that have the bad housing or has this been more than just a random problem? I've been seriously thinking of going back to an American car since the recycled Japanese metals are such junk.

dallison

I'm afraid to loosen the top bolt on the pumpkin too, there's a lot of flaking rust. This truck is garaged too.

ManyMods

It just seems odd to me that this should have happened to me, Granted, living on an Island surrounded by salt water the atmosphere is corrosive. However, I do not drive the 4R on the beach, hose down the undercarriage on a regular basis and take good care of the exterior, over and under.

I'll see if I can stop by my mechanic's shop today and get a progress report.

Nelsonmd

Welcome to the club. There are quite a few of us that have had this happen. You can check out the link in my sig for my fix (there are several threads over on T4r.org on this subject, with guys that have solved it different ways). And yes, it does seems to be alot worse on the rear axle and back, probably because the salt gets kicked up there the worst.

Honestly, you may have a tough time finding a salvage axle that isn't itself super rusty. I searched, called around, and visited yards for over a month and couldn't find anything decent. I ended up buying one off a guy in Florida on T4r.org, I think there is at least one rear end available here on yotatech. Affordable shipping can be tough to arrange sometimes, but I know several people (including myself) have managed it. If you can manage it, this is my recommendation as you can get one with no rust at all. You can also get a complete axle this way so it is really just a bolt on job.

For a quick fix, you can clean the housing and jb weld it shut. It may not last forever, but it will keep you driving without blowing the diff.

Sameera1978

Had it happen on the first housing in my runner. I pulled the housing, disassembled, stripped it down to pare metal and braised it back to a factory look. Undercoated the living heck out of it and put it back in. Now I am running a locker in the back so it isn't in mine anymore but the guy I sold it to is still running around on it years later, never mentioned any issue when changing gear oil.

Oh and hate to say it but: this doesn't really matter in any way. Much of the steel used to make these vehicles is the same as what we use here. Of course the "joke" in that is that toyota makes a lot of the US market vehicles here to begin with. If you think you will have better luck with an "american" company, well good luck. We have a boat load of newer ford, chevy and dodge trucks that have failed us, well to be honest they just rusted to crap or break, one is an 09, rockers and quarters are half gone on it. All newer and never leave the road, get washed weekly/bi-weekly and still are crap. When it came time to buy trucks this last time, boss went with 4 tundras and everyone loves them.

Point is, each company has problems no matter who you go with, some more than others. Pick out a vehicle that you like and has a decent enough reputation, take care of it and you should be just fine. As for the 3rd gens, even the newest of them are nearly 10 years old, rust is sort of expected at this point unless someone keeps on top of it.

aowRS

Sorry to hear about your axle housing (especially with the low mileage your truck has).

I'm not sure if this is of any merit, but I've typically doused the entire underside of my truck with WD-40, annually. I purchased it new and now have more than 223,000 miles. Apart from the usual surface rust on welds & such, I'd say the entire underside looks remarkably well. We've been driving it on the beach for the last 3 summers, but I do follow each of these trips with a thorough rinse underneath. And I never drive through salt water (on the beach).

The WD-40 wash downs occur in my garage - I get the truck on stands, pull the wheels, and fill a 1-gallon pump sprayer with WD-40 from a gallon container. I cover the floor with drop cloths and go to town.


Andreas

Potomacduck

If you are going to the trouble of stripping it down you might also have it media blasted and painted. It might cost a few bucks and it might be worth it.

ManyMods

To NelsonMD and the rest who took the time to answer me -- THANK YOU.
I looked at other threads on other sites and see this is an epidemic. I agree with Semeera1978 that I will be jumping from the fire into the frying pan if I go American. As much as I would love a Ford Raptor F150 I know I would be buying a whole new box of woes.

What I don't understand is why has there not been a campaign to get Toyota to admit to this defect the same way they did to the Tacoma frame issue. My dealer is still replacing frames on vehicles with stacks of new frames out in the lot.

My mechanic tried 4 sources and could not find a used non-rusted rearend. My dealer says they have a source for good rear ends that come complete with a 1 year warranty for around $1000. I asked my mechanic to call the parts manager to investigate. I know I could make the call since I know the parts manager really well but if my mechanic is going to do the job, and he is, he might as well make a profit on the part too.

If I have to I guess I will go for a new rearend -- assuming the rest of the undercarriage is solid, but $2800 + labor is an ugly pill to swallow. I am going to call the general manager tomorrow and speak with him to see what suggestions he can offer. I have brought a lot of business to this dealership.

Nelsonmd

There has been some campaigning for a recall, but Toyota hasn't given in, and now that they are so old, they most likely never will.

An entire rear end for 1k isn't terrible, but it isn't a good deal either. I paid $650 for everything but brakes, and others have gotten a better deal than me. It all depends on what you have and how quickly you need it.

A brand new rear axle housing has an MSRP of about $1-1.2k depending on options (locker, 4wd, abs, etc).

Snap some pics of your current rusty axle so we can see how bad it is. Also, do you have a locker?

ManyMods

"Snap some pics of your current rusty axle so we can see how bad it is. Also, do you have a locker?"

Nelsonmd: I do not have a locker. I wish I did; my '99 had the locker. I do have the abs system.

I will try to post some photos asap. I need to get this truck back in service soon. I have to find out if $2800 includes installation.

I was thinking about checking junk yards in Arizona.

ManyMods

The VIN does not identify the rear gear ratio. I understand there is a code identifier somewhere on the rear, possibly on the axle tubes? Does anyone know exactly where it is located?

deines97runnah

Yay i have the same problem!!!!!!!!! Would a 4x2 rear end work? And does it matter if the doaner dosent have abs if you plan on using your hardware? Thanks for the response!

Sameera1978

I believe the housing is the same for ABS/Non-ABS. You just have to switch your stuff (axles and the like) over to it. Having an E-locker or not does make a difference but the mod to make a non-locked housing fit a locker is well documented.

ManyMods

I think my dealer is trying to get me a complete rear end but I will speak with them more next week. I've got to look for that plate with the code that identifies the gear ratio. I think it is an 8-1/4 rear.

Nelsonmd

No, no identifier. The diff could have been swapped already anyway. Just do the spin test, it takes 10 minutes and actually measures the ratio.

No, the housing is different for ABS/non-ABS. The ABS housing has a hole into which the ABS sensor fits. The non-abs housing doesn't have this. Also, the non ABS axle's are different as they don't have the cogged wheel on them. You cannot mix and match. The only thing you could do is swap a non-ABS axle in and just let your ABS sensors hang, or cut them off, but then you won't have working ABS. You could do the same thing the other way, get an ABS axle/housing, plug the holes with ABS sensors that are non-functional.

You are talking about the diff size (8"). That is different and doesn't say anything about the gear ratio. Just do the spin test (search for it).

ManyMods

[QUOTE=Nelsonmd;51739336]No, no identifier. The diff could have been swapped already anyway. Just do the spin test, it takes 10 minutes and actually measures the ratio.

I bought the vehicle new in '02. I will search for the spin test. Thank you.

ManyMods

I finally had my rear axle housing replaced which included having the housing assembly painted along with new backing plates. They also replaced bearings and seals, the skid control rotor, etc. The total cost to me was under $1700.00.