scott d

I just checked my valve clearances for the first time ever at 203K. I was a little worried about what I might find after that many miles. Here are the results.
All of the intake valves were within specs. 6 of the valves had a clearance of .006 and the other 6 had a clearance of .007.
As for the exhaust valves, 6 had a clearance of .013, 5 had a clearance of .014, and one was out of spec at .015. Not too bad after so many miles, huh? I was pleasantly surprised.
I'm thinking that I'm not even going to mess with adjusting the one that is out of spec. Would you guys mess with it? or leave it as is? The engine is quiet and doesn't tick.
I bought the truck at 50K miles and have always run mobile 1 synthetic in it. I might add some pics of what it looks like under the valve covers. Nothing shows any wear, but it isn't perfectly shiny and clean under there anymore either. I'd be curious to see how it looks compared to other trucks with similar mileage and other brands of oil used.
Anyway, just thought I would post results in case it was of interest to anyone else.

snobdds

Post up some pics...we will be able to tell you how your valve train looks...

Moonfish

Looks?

Sounds like it is very nicely in spec if it is anything like the specs of a 3rz. At 150k, I couldn't get a gauge in under three (pairs) of the cams. Putting off the 3.4 check until the weather is much, much warmer !

scott d

Here are a couple of pics of each side. Looks pretty good, just a little more brown than I expected it to be.
Drivers side-



Passenger side-

westjohns yota

thats a very clean motor, should be one of those 400k+ miles motors

snobdds

It looks real good. A honey brown color is what you want.

I would not adjust the valves that are in spec. Just the ones that are out...

scuba

I'd leave it.
Check again in another 30K.

Texas_Ace

Agreed^ Not worth it for that little bit of adjustment IMO. Check it again down the road and adjust when t is either further out of spec or more are out of spec.

Also, very clean motor, looks like mine.

hilux3rz

What tool(s) do you have to change a shim if you have to?

Mines done 198,000 km, thinking I might check mine when it hits 200.

NwRunner

looks like my JDM import when i pulled the valve covers at 60k. Youve got a good thing going, id leave it. Looks like I should keep running Mobil1 synthetic too.

Texas_Ace

Mobile1 is great for cleaning out a motor, not so great for actual oil anymore unless you get one of the true type 4 synthetics they make.

AMSoil is true synthetic and a VERY good oil. I use it whenever I have time to order it.

Rotella T from Walmart is also good and cheap. I run the T6 or T5 depending on if it is summer or winter if I don't have time to order amsoil.

scott d

hilux3rz---There is a special service tool set that you use to get the shims out which consists of a set of pliers to depress the lifter, and a holding tool to keep the lifter depressed while you remove the shim. You can find the tools on the big auction site by searching "Toyota valve tool".
I've heard good things about the Amsoil, but I'm gonna stick with the Mobil 1. Having good luck so far.
Decided not to even mess with adjusting that valve, however when I was replacing the drivers side valve cover, I cracked one of the ears off at a bolt. Anyone got a drivers side valve cover they want to get rid of?

post office

This reply made me curious about mobil1 not being 'great oil.' Can you elaborate a little on why you say this?

I'm at 199550. I'm sure my valves should be checked, but it runs like a top. Of course i need to do the valve cover gaskets and cam gaskets. You guys say valves will make an audible tick when they're needing service. How obvious is this noise over, say the fuel injectors? My engine makes noise but its hard to say if its valves, or the injectors operating.

Also,

I was wondering what kind of oil consumption you guys experience over the course of an oil change? On mine, going from oilchange to oilchange (average, about 5,000 mi.) I might need to add 1/2 qt to 3/4. I'm thinking this is completely normal for the driving i do, which is mostly short trips of stop/go 35-45mph 6 days/week. 55mph on occasion for 15-20 mi.

Texas_Ace

Back in the 90's and early 2000's mobile one made great type IV synthetic (AKA, true synthetic) oils.

They then had a big lawsuit with Pennzoil? since Pennzoil was selling type III oil stock as synthetic oil (highly refined dino oil). Mobile 1 lost the case and Pennzoil was allowed to keep selling type III oils stock as "fully synthetic" even though it was anything but.

This is when every oil maker started releasing "fully synthetic" oil since type III was far easier and cheaper to make then type IV. Mobile 1 for obvious reasons followed suite and started using type III oil stock in their oils after this.

Now days there are only a handful of oil makers that use true type IV oil stock. AMSoil is 1 of them, most of the others are high priced "Racing" oils.

There are still a few particular oils out there that are Type IV though. Most of the 0w-30 or 0w-40 oils are type IV since it is almost impossible to get those ratings with type III. If you search google you can find which bottles are type IV.

Mobile 1 still makes a few, Castoil also makes the "german" blend that I think is type IV. There are some others as well.

I just get AMSoil though, that way I know it is true Type IV since that is all they use.

Far as oil usage, Mine hardly uses a drop of oil between changes and I also take short trip beating the heck out of it as well. A little oil usage is no big deal.

post office

Well thats good to know about amisoil! Perhaps this will be my next choice when i change me next oil.

To think i've been using this garbage Mobil1 .

Texas_Ace

Mobile 1 isn't garbage, they are just no better then anyone else for the most part.

Mobile 1 does have a strong point (or bad point depending on what you are doing). They pack the oil FULL of additives to clean the motor out. Mobile 1 is actually used in TSB's on some cars to stock engine ticking due to sludge build up. It will clean an engine like new in a few oil changes.

Those additives have the side effect of lessening the effectiveness of the oil though. I will usually run mobile 1 for the first oil change or 2 on new to me cars to clean the engine out.

aowRS

PM sent.


Andreas

ToyoTech559

you want them to tick. valves over time dont get loose, they get tight. if they get tight, they dont tick. no tick = bad. to tight of a valve can cause burnt valves. you want to adjust valves on the looser side of the spec valve imo.
there is a special tool that lets you change the shim out without removing the cam shaft. the tool can be found on amazon. doesnt cost much. adjust the one thats out of specs imo since its already open

black_taco

iTrader: (2)

What is the range for acceptable clearance again? I have did this adjustment to a Camry that I had but yet to complete the job on my 1996 Taco with 141k on it. Personally I would have brought everything back into the middle of the tolerance. But that is only if you are an ANAL machinist like me. Good job of tackling the job, many are too chicken.

BT17R

What TA and ToyoTech said.

Wal-Mart started carrying Mobil 1 0W-40 synthetic in quarts and gallon jugs for the same price as their other so-called synthetics. It's around $5/qt. on sale. I use it year 'round and change out w/OEM filter every six months that's about 3K miles.

Anyway, your valvetrain looks great, I wouldn't touch it. Maybe re-torque the heads and call it good for another 100K!