bowhunter1640

Hello I've looking for a solution to my problem for hrs and I can't find anything that helps me out. Ok so I took off the manual hub and took out the whole assembly inside to where I've gotten to the snap ring and the splined washer behind itand there is some sort of bronze or brass ring with indentations in the face ( this is where I'm having the problem ). If I use a drift punch it will turn but I'm not sure if it's threaded or not left or right thread or even how it comes out. I checked the down loadable manual for my truck and that doesn't even show what I have. Oh I forgot to mention this is a 96 Tacoma with 4wd can someone help me out here? thank you

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Those are the nuts that hold the wheel bearings they make a special socket to remove them. OTC 7941

Normal thread direction Left to loosen Right to tighten

I would hope your replacing the Dust Cover as Brake backing plates are on the rear that your brake shoes attach to.

habanero

With the 4 holes evenly spaced....yeah, that was fun to break loose ( 203 ft lbs of fun). I used a spare tire to hold the thing in place and stacked people on it, then a breaker w/cheater and steady pressure.
How about the tool needed for the thing that holds the bearing for the CV shaft in...I need to find that one.

bowhunter1640

yes I'm actually replacing the dust covers and the backing plates. I wasn't sure on what they were. thank you

bowhunter1640

Wyoming9 you wouldn't happen to know where I can find a diagram of the breakdown would you? Just so I have something for reference. Also does that flange just pull off once I get that nut off? thank you

bowhunter1640

Habanero what bolts are you referring to? can you explain more? thank you

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Any of the Manuals Haynes Chiltons but the Factory Service Manual is better.

It does not hold your hand figuring you have some mechanical skills.

bowhunter1640

ok thanks. Just one more question I was working that nut by tapping it with a hammer and a drift punch and it doesn't seem to be coming off. it's moving no problem but it just seems like it's not backing out. is that normal? just want to make sure I'm not screwing something up. thank you

habanero

Bolts?
Anywho, the nut you're trying to take off has 4 holes for the tool that Wyoming9 gave you the part number for. I bought my tool off Amazon for $13. Same idea, not as nice as OTC I am sure.

You prolly already bumped the keeper out so your nut could turn....that one small section that's been bent into a notch? Sorry, mine are at the shop to get the hubs and bearings pressed out or I'd take a pic.
Wait. Are you talking about the nut inside of the ring that has the notches in it? The one that holds the bearing race in for the cv axle? The drift punch and turning is what's making me think we are all talking about two different things. We are talking about the big ring with 4 holes in it- the one the tool in my pic fits into. Are we on the same page?

Freewheeling hubs are new to me, but I was under the impression that the only way to get that flange off was to press the hub out. To do it requires removing the lock nut. I do not think there is anything you can unscrew and have the flange fall into your hand. Again, new to it so take that all with a few grains of salt.

I am in no way recommending this (but thought it a neat trick) to cut the dust covers in half horizontally so they can be taken off and put on as needed with 2 bolts for each side. I haven't tried it so have no idea how that would work in the long run.

bowhunter1640

yes the nut with the notches in it that holds the bearing race in. that's the one i'm working on. I have thought about cutting the dust plate and bolting it into place and then tack welding it back together

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I think where you are running into trouble is the Hub needs to be removed with the steering knuckle.

Meaning the 4 bolts at the lower ball joint and the upper ball joint

The nut your unscrewing Goes in the back of the steering knuckle.

The Hub must be pressed out.

This is quite a bit of work to be just changing Dust covers !!

Now if you were also changing the Ball joints and you had every thing all apart .

Still quite a lot of work.

Then pulling the axles to change backing plates is a lot of work as well

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I hope this helps from the 1997 4Runner FSM

bowhunter1640

yeah I tend to be like that. LOL thank you

bowhunter1640

out of curiosity how did you guys / gals hold the knuckle to get that wheel bearing nut out? I know how I'm going to try it I'm just wondering how you did it, thanks

habanero

As you see in the pic above. I put the hub on the spare tire with the lug nuts to hold it in place, then my kid and husband stood on the tire while I used a breaker bar with extra cheater bar to apply pressure. Hardest part (besides breaking 203 ft lbs loose) was keeping the tool level so it didn't pop out of the holes and damage the pins. The hubby put his foot over the top of the tool and that helped.

On the second one I also used the spare tire to hold it, but then zapped it with the impact when I couldn't break it loose by hand. That was a little easier.

When I have to put them back on I will prolly try cargo straps to hold the spare in place.

Remember that brass bushing that was just spinning when you were using a chisel? It's a press fit. I haven't tried it yet, but was wondering if there was a slide hammer that would get in there.....maybe blind hole or pilot bearing style or some kind?

Off Road Solutions has the little bearing and both the inner and outer bushings listed for sale....

If you have the hub pressed out you will also need a new wheel bearing, the clip that holds it in and an inner and outer seal.

bowhunter1640

Thank you what I was going to do is put the knuckle in backwards with the upper ball joint and hold it that way

habanero

That sounds reasonable. Are you going to try to thread a couple of the lower ball joint bolts too, then, so you have a solid enough thing to deal with?

bowhunter1640

I can't so I'm going to use a wrecking bar in between the lugs which will also hit against the lower ball joint to hold it

habanero

That sounds.......interesting......

You're going to have to pull that bushing out or you will damage it and the bearing behind if you hit it. The dealership that's pulling mine (call me un-adventurous, it's okay) say they normally pull the hub while on the truck (after removing cv, lock ring and spacer, and re-bolting the LBJ) from the front using a slide hammer.....it sounded.....interesting, too.

Again, my experience is limited to what is happening now, so grain of salt. This is a crazy amount of expense for the backing plate unless bearings were in your plans anyway. Still, I'm not going to say I don't get it. Are you gonna reboot the cvs while you're so far apart?