Replaced Throttle Position Sensor
#1
Replaced Throttle Position Sensor
My '96 Tacoma 5VZ-FE has high NOX and was idling really low. When I would pull the little black air hose off the top nipple on the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC), the idle would open up enough that you could drive it at least. Started it up the other day and the idle kept ramping up and down. I drove it anyway and eventually it spit a code for P0510 Closed Throttle Position Sensor (Switch). I got a new one for $80 at "the zone" and now the truck is idling normally at around 750. Awesome. That ODB-II tester (Actron) just paid for itself (again).
So that problem is solved at least, but since my truck doesn't have an EGR to deal with NOX emissions, I'm going to have the Catalytic Converter replaced. Found a shop that quoted $225 installed, which is by far the lowest price I've found.
I asked the guy about replacing the O2 sensor and he said they don't really track those things down, but if I wanted to pick one up they'd pop it in when they had the Catalytic Converter out. I initially bought the cheaper Bosch O2 sensor, but you have to re-wire that one. Sounds like the muffler shop is more into welding than electrical work, so I went back and got the Denso with the proper connector for $60 more. That way they can easily replace it with no extra charge.
Since I am unable to remove the front O2 sensor, and it's got 290,000 miles on it, I figured it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace it while I have the chance.
So that problem is solved at least, but since my truck doesn't have an EGR to deal with NOX emissions, I'm going to have the Catalytic Converter replaced. Found a shop that quoted $225 installed, which is by far the lowest price I've found.
I asked the guy about replacing the O2 sensor and he said they don't really track those things down, but if I wanted to pick one up they'd pop it in when they had the Catalytic Converter out. I initially bought the cheaper Bosch O2 sensor, but you have to re-wire that one. Sounds like the muffler shop is more into welding than electrical work, so I went back and got the Denso with the proper connector for $60 more. That way they can easily replace it with no extra charge.
Since I am unable to remove the front O2 sensor, and it's got 290,000 miles on it, I figured it would be a good idea to go ahead and replace it while I have the chance.
#2
Registered User
Good call on the denso 02 sensor.
Also, you could have gotten an OEM throttle position sensor for like 90 bucks.. For electronic things, I always go OEM.
Also, you could have gotten an OEM throttle position sensor for like 90 bucks.. For electronic things, I always go OEM.
#3
True, for many parts OEM is the only way to go. In this case, the Duralast part seems to be just fine though. It appears to be well made (or rebuilt) and works great. I mean, it's a night and day difference in how the truck is running now. That ramping thing was strange. When it did that I had a hunch it was a switch or solenoid type of issue.
#5
Got a new Catalytic Converter and front O2 sensor the other day. The exhaust doesn't smoke now and there seems to be a lot less of that toxic smell. So that's good.
The truck still runs kinda rough though. When I step on the gas it doesn't have that smooth, new car response, it feels almost like a diesel. I did a simple resistance test on both the MAF and the IAC, both were right where they're supposed to be. I didn't do the full function tests yet though. My MAF looks nothing like the ones I've seen pictures of people cleaning. I'm not touching it. I'm going to clean the IAC this week. Went to "the zone" yesterday to get the gaskets but they didn't have them. I'll just order them online for a lot cheaper.
I swear I had the fuel filter changed by a dealer no more than 2 years ago, but they have no records at all. Lame. It looks brand new, I think it's fine. I keep thinking maybe I should change it anyway. Could sitting in my driveway for months cause the fuel filter to get gunked up?
The truck still runs kinda rough though. When I step on the gas it doesn't have that smooth, new car response, it feels almost like a diesel. I did a simple resistance test on both the MAF and the IAC, both were right where they're supposed to be. I didn't do the full function tests yet though. My MAF looks nothing like the ones I've seen pictures of people cleaning. I'm not touching it. I'm going to clean the IAC this week. Went to "the zone" yesterday to get the gaskets but they didn't have them. I'll just order them online for a lot cheaper.
I swear I had the fuel filter changed by a dealer no more than 2 years ago, but they have no records at all. Lame. It looks brand new, I think it's fine. I keep thinking maybe I should change it anyway. Could sitting in my driveway for months cause the fuel filter to get gunked up?
Last edited by j_cd; 05-31-2010 at 09:04 AM.
#7
I just replaced mine from the junkyard low mile motor for free.. Brought it to the front and the guy looked at it laughed and said go head.... So now the truck runs perfect and if it lasts 50k miles then I got my $s worth or LOL free is good... Mine just went belly up at 177k ...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RedRunner_87
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners (Build-Up Section)
84
06-01-2021 01:51 PM
TURBOrunnerNM
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
4
07-22-2015 11:01 AM