Removing e-locker 3rd?
#1
Removing e-locker 3rd?
Anything different I have to do with the e-locker? Pulled the axles, brake lines, ebrake..is it just a matter of prying off the 3rd or is it something to do with the e-locker?
TIA!
TIA!
#2
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lock the diff before you remove it. there is not enough clearance in the housing to do this with it unlocked. if you dont have the wiring, remove the actuator (2 nuts and 1 bolt) and slide the "rack" over towards the 3rd, locking it. then you can remove it like a normal 3rd.
#6
lock the diff before you remove it. there is not enough clearance in the housing to do this with it unlocked. if you dont have the wiring, remove the actuator (2 nuts and 1 bolt) and slide the "rack" over towards the 3rd, locking it. then you can remove it like a normal 3rd.
I have removed many diffs from 4runners with locker rear ends without it being locked. You don't have to remove the actuator at all.
#7
Also, my drive shaft flange pattern is different. 88 4runner V6 and donor car is a 03 Tacoma.
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#9
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remove the actuator on the drivers side of the diff, put a flat blade screw driver on the gear teeth that are at the top of the hole, and push the teeth away from the center of the diff. this will unlock it. having one wheel in the air or the trans in neutral will help unlock it (releasing any binding in the driveline and allowing the splines to slide unobstructed).
you also could use a battery to unlock the diff. ill let you do your own research on that one. personally i would just do the manual screwdriver way
deathcouger, everything i have read, and my own personal experience with mine, it must be locked to be installed, there is simply not enough clearance in the opening of the housing to get it installed while unlocked.
you also could use a battery to unlock the diff. ill let you do your own research on that one. personally i would just do the manual screwdriver way
deathcouger, everything i have read, and my own personal experience with mine, it must be locked to be installed, there is simply not enough clearance in the opening of the housing to get it installed while unlocked.
#10
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ok kinda off topin but my actuator is bad... so if i want to lock my diff i can just remove the actuator and do it myself and then put the actuator back on... lol this could be annoying to do but save me money tell i have enough to get a new actuator.
thanks
bobby
thanks
bobby
#11
From my 1998 4runner EWD.The diff. motor should have a connector/pig tale attached to it.The two wires you are looking for are:
Connector should be a gray in color connector:
8 pin,only 7 are used
pin locations:
2:lg-r
3:lg
Lg-r,light green with a red stripe.
lg,solid light green.
On the connector looking directly at it (unconnected,clip facing up)They should be top row,center pins, directly below the connector clasp/clip.
You will have to connect pins to power and ground and motor should move,If stays locked,you will have to reverse the polarity of electrical connections.
Connector should be a gray in color connector:
8 pin,only 7 are used
pin locations:
2:lg-r
3:lg
Lg-r,light green with a red stripe.
lg,solid light green.
On the connector looking directly at it (unconnected,clip facing up)They should be top row,center pins, directly below the connector clasp/clip.
You will have to connect pins to power and ground and motor should move,If stays locked,you will have to reverse the polarity of electrical connections.
#12
Oh,and if anyone wanted to manually wire up a any motor to reverse polarity from a switch,This circuit works well.
Scroll down to bottom of page:
http://halloweentinkering.googlepages.com/power&control
Scroll down to bottom of page:
http://halloweentinkering.googlepages.com/power&control
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