nrgetic99

Ok,

I undid the 6 bolts at the inboard tulip. Removed hub amd snap ring but I just can't seem to find enough room to get the Driveshaft flange clear of the bolts on the inboard tulip.

Short of splitting the upper Ball joint, whats the trick ??

Thanks

David

gthorne

Hey, I just replaced the boots on one side of mine this weekend. I ended up tapping two of the studs out where the inboard part of the axle bolts on. With those two out of the way I was able to twist it out. It took me a long time. I had to adjust how the wheels were turned several times and also jack the A-arm up. It seemed to help. I also had to take the shock off. The boot was binding up on it. Hope this helps.

nrgetic99

Thanks,

I have jacked the a-arm and spun the wheels... I like your idea of tapping out the studs...

Thanks

David

eric-the-red

Another way is unbolt the lower ball joint from the control arm. Look underneath and there are 4 bolts, remove them and pry the joint from the arm. Lots of room then.

nrgetic99

Thanks,

I will go try that now...

Do I have to do an allignment afterward ???

David

Marc P

I just took all the studs out. Axle almost falls out then. Super easy if you have access to an air hammer.

eric-the-red

No, the joint will bolt back on in exactly the same place, alignment should be fine.

leebee

follow erics plan and if need be, you can remove the lower shock bolt and compress the shock out of the way for a bit more room. check out robinhood150's site, he explains about exchanging the splined bolts with grade 5 or 8 bolts and nuts to simplify this repair.

lee

Robinhood150

I don't think I have a website about CV change, but I've posted a pretty detailed procedure on the forums, complete with diagrams. nrgetic probably would have been done by now if he had searched first.

Bumpin' Yota

I just unbolted the upper ball joint from the upper control arm and had gobs of room to pull my CV out...and you know that the tripod joint seal couldnt stay intact! Nope had to get 1/2gallon of old arse grease everywhere! Ugg...

And get an alignment....my BFGko is NOT liking life up there since i took the ball joing off of the upper control arm...

Tofer

i have done the drivers side 3 times, and passenger side 2 times. i am getting pretty good at this. the trick i have done, is you have to have the truck jacked up by the lower A-arm, but it still doesnt raise the axle high enough to come out easily pass the diff, if you put the stock bottle jack between the bumpstop bracket and the upper a-arm and jack it up it in esence lowers the frame and make the hole bigger .. other then that it just takes some giggleing and wiggleing to get it to line up and get past the studs. i keep meaning to get picture of the process but keep forgeting... i'll do it next time i have to change 'em out again

nrgetic99

I searched but maybe the titles of the threads don;t mesh well.

David

nrgetic99

Final noob question....

If I just slacken off the aduster on the torsion bar , the upper control arm should be able to be move up out the way once I remove the four bolts holding the ball joint, right ?

The torsion bar works on the upper control arm and connects to the lower control arm via the steering knuckle so once I have removed the upper ball joint, upper and lower control arms are free to move independantly IF the torsion bar is backed off.

Does that sound right ?

Thanks

P.S> I have FSM and it just says 'remove'.... no mention of popping the studs out, etc.

David

nrgetic99

The grease thing already got me..... I got through about 26 pairs of gloves so far and about three shirts

David

Blair

I did this job about 2 years ago...all I had to do, was compress the inboard side of the axle, toward the engine. There should be enough play in the axle to slip it past any obstructions. After compressing the axle, it almost FELL out.

nrgetic99

Thanks Blair,

I hear that from 50% of folks and the rest all have some trick so why things are different, I don't know.

Interestingly enough, I did find the lower nut and washer were missing from the sway bar end link on the driver side which explains the "clunk" I had been getting.

David

Blair

Well, I only 'discovered' this because I had a spare set of axles on hand, and just happened to compress one of the spares while I was pondering how to slip the axle past the arm. Figured it wouldn't hurt to try it, and it worked! Let us know how you make out.

Robinhood150

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ighlight=cv%2A
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ighlight=cv%2A
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ighlight=cv%2A

That's all I could find in 2 minutes...gotta go to work now. I'll find more later.

Flamedx4

No, don't play with the torsion bar. It's the sway bar that keeps the suspension from drooping enough, not the torsion bar.

I've done this about 5 times in the past year (for various things) and got it down pat. I remove the lower shock bolt to get it out of the way. I undo one sway bar end link so the suspension can move through a longer range. I had one jack under the front lower crossbar (actually a jackstand - already there because I took off a tire) and one under the lower ball joint nut (it needs to be all the way out there to get the needed leverage.) A combination of up/down and you'll find the sweet spot where it just barely comes out. There is nothing wrong with the idea of knocking the 6 bolts out though, just don't bugger up the ends of the threads.

91 4Runner

Here this link should help for reinstalling them....
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/quickcv/