CynicX

well trdusa.com says they got 264 hp or something with the TRD ECU, which i think would be more actuate then 203...

oly884

That is quite a big difference, but was that 264 at the crank or at the wheels?

CynicX

i'm not really sure....I would guess it was at the wheels....not many places determine crank hp after a modifaction....simple because that requires pulling the motor and hooking it up to one of those hp crank machine dyno things (i dunno what they are called).....

another thing to remember is all dynos are different....if you take a vehicle on a mustang dyno it will be lower then a other dyno machines....

seanak198

i saw one of these on a 6.0l chevy 2500 hd at the track tonight. he was running that beast in the 14's. he said it was the prototype so he got it free. he also said that he drove 5 hours in the rain with it and had no problems with the location of the turbo yet all his problems are with the computer. he showed a dyno sheet of 330 rwhp.

CynicX

my gosh...how much drivetrain loss does a chevy have?....the v8 6.0 produces 345 at the crank....and hes getting 330 at the wheels WITH the turbo?....yuck

zach34

The straight pipe which sends the gases back to the engine is coated with HPC, and that acts as the intercooler.

roger

The proper term is 'compress', not 'condense'. All turbos (and superchargers) simply compress the intake air. When you have more air, you can add more fuel, thus making more power. And yes, whenever you compress a gas it heats up, which is what intercoolers are for.

The whole page still seems kinda shady to me.

As far as driveline losses, 15% is a good rule of thumb. So 345HP at the crank would be ~293 at the wheels. Doesn't seem like much of an improvement...

havic

According to that, with the trd s/c 3.4L's should be getting around 225 rwhp. Not bad. Car companies should advertise with whp not crank hp. That way you know what you're getting. I still think that the remote turbo might not be too bad. I mainly do street driving, so this application may not be good for everyone.

oly884

I can see where the super charger would help in certain situations. Off roading would be a main one. As for me, this kit seems to fit my needs better. I also don't want to have to deal with all the problems involved with the super charger.

WolfpackTLC

Please tell me you're joking...

That is NOT a sufficient intercooler.

This is a POORLY designed system. WOW.

And as for wheeling w/ a turbo... I know plenty of guys w/ rigs (including my roommate's) that run the 7MGTE motor out of a Supra... that's right... a TURBO-charged rig. They do fine, AND spool around 2k rpm.

tricken

humm this is some funny stuff thanks for the links i will pass it on, this would never go on my off road truck because when u crawl u are in the low low rpms no extra power till 4k in my mind this product is great for all thjose way over lifted show queens we see running up and down the roads that never see dirt but cant ever pass the gas pump.

CynicX

oh well I was wrong then, I personally didnt like wheeling the turbo but I guess its user preference. I cant imagine dishing out the money for a 7MGTE for an offroad rig when you could get something more reliable and powerful (torquey since thats where you need it when offroading) that isnt as dangerous but to each there own. Do they have blow off valves too? My offroading ranges from 1k-3k so spooling at 2k wouldnt fit my application

4-RUNNIN' FREAK

Couldn't you just add it to a S/C'd engine? I know some busses are S/C'd and T/C'd. They need one (S/C or T/C) just to make them run or something like that. I think it's the turbo. Hence the turbo diesel trucks and cars. The way that diesel "burns" has something to do with it.
Enlighten me on this.

CynicX

i doubt it...the s/c would need to be designed to work with COMPRESSED (hehe) air to begin with....i'm not exactly sure how all that would work out....

you could always up the psi with teh s/c but you'd run into pinging problems.....

WolfpackTLC

These guys aren't doing the mod for more power, per se.... it's about reliability over the stock 3.0, and power while driving on the road...

The 7mgte IS stronger @ 2k than the 3.0, so that's nice too....

Dan_90SR5

Alright, you have had some very poor experiences with turbocharged vehicles. A properly sized turbo will work almost exactly like a supercharger.....notice that I said almost. For an offroad vehicle you will use a smaller turbo that is matched to the engine being used. I've seen turbos that have absolutely no lag and no hold on for dear life reactions. If you use a small turbo that will only boost about 12psi max and run it at about 7-8psi on say a 3VZ-E or 5VZ-FE you would see that this would be a great set-up.

No, this would not be a good set-up for extreme rock crawling, but would be very nice for what we can do in even the most modified Runner.

I'd say for those interested look into a Garrett T3 or maybe even the ever so popular Toyota CT26 used in the Celica, MR2 and Supra. You can pick up either of these turbos for cheap on ebay and rebuild them. I've seen CT26 turbos that use Garrett ball bearing centers.....this makes them pretty lethal.

As for the reasoning behind the remote turbos........makes no sense. Use a turbo blanket and exhaust wrap.

SuperRunner

You don't know what you are talking about, you have absoutly no personal experience. Heve you ever even driven a turbo? Your opinions are absolutly not true. Sorry to flame you, but man, I get sick of hearing about turbos not good for wheeling. I have wheeled for 3 years now with a turbo setup, and man is it ever sweet. No problem with power, and the extra power is completely self regulated. You, the driver has complete control over the turbo.

SuperRunner

You gear down anyway, and will never use the turbo because the engine must be under a load to spool the turbo. These engines make more torque than a 22R and equivelent to a 3.0. Whith proper gearing do those not have enough power? You don't need power for wheeling, only for street.

SuperRunner

what turbo did you wheel? You havn't ridden with me. I have plenty of low end torque for wheeling. Also, you don't know the concept of what spools a turbo.

SuperRunner

Ok, now why remote mounting works!!!!

I know this guy, he is just down the street from me. In fact, I was just at his shop yesterday, and he gives me a great deal on 180 degree mandrel bends.

Anyway, a turbo and s/c are just forcing air into the engine. A turbo uses exhaust gasses and a s/c uses a belt. This will increase the pressure in your intake by a certain pressure.

Lets say we have a N/A car or truck. Most N/A's run around with 10:1 or 10.5:1 compression. With that type of compression about the max you can go on boost is 7 psi. Lets say you have a turbo mounted right at the engine and it is set to set psi. It will build boost until it hits 7psi. Now, take the rear mounted turbo. It is also set at 7psi. It will build boost intil you hit 7psi.


7psi, is 7psi. Now, you could have really hot 7psi, or really cool 7psi. Usually most cars that are turbocharged that only go to 7psi don't have intercoolers. The air doesn't get that hot anyway. By increasing the pipe length between the turbo and the engine, you can effectivly cool the air than if the turbo was at the engine.

Turbo lag
As long as your compressor and turbine are matched for your application, you can reduce turbo lag. Rear mounted turbos will probably use a slightly smaller turbine housing than a engine mount. You have just as much air at the front of the engine than you do at the rear. Yes it is slightly cooler, which means that the velocity is a little less, but when you are only talking about 7psi, that is isn't a problem for rear mounted turbos.

This system works, and it is bolt on. Easier to install than a S/C.

As for an off-road truck? Heck no would I run something like this. Turbo is down too low, but that would be the only reason why.