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Rear Suspension Options

Old 02-09-2006, 06:30 PM
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Rear Suspension Options

I have some damage on my rear suspension that is going to require a bit of work and I'm not sure which direction to go with it.
The damaged parts are the rear panhard bar bracket, which I found a replacement/upgrade at sonoran steel.
The other part is the bracket that the passenger-side/rear contol arm is attached to (the one on the frame). I'm not sure if its called a control arm.
I have searched sonoran, total chaos, etc for new brackets but have found nothing. One option is to go with leaf springs but that seems to be a lot of work and $$$. But, since I have to have it fixed anyway, is there an "upgrade" that can be done for better articulation, etc... That isn't too expensive?

Here is the part that is broke (not my truck, stole the picture from SC4Runner). I will take pics of the damage tomorrow and post them.

Last edited by jeremys73; 02-09-2006 at 06:32 PM.
Old 02-09-2006, 07:38 PM
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Those brackets take a beating and there is no cheap upgrade. Toyota sells replacement brackets but it will have to be cut off and re-welded on and you'll have to drop the tank.

Try bending it back streight. I still think there is more cutting and grinding on a rear leaf swap than a front SAS.

Those brackets are not that hard to bend back streight.
Old 02-09-2006, 07:42 PM
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I heard a certain fab shop might come up with skid plates or some type of brace to protect those flimsy brackets. You should beat 'em to it Steve.
Old 02-10-2006, 09:49 AM
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Also, the rear leaf swap is not a great match with coils up front in the long term unless you are willing to try to fine tune the two ends. I speak from experience.

Try the simple solution that Steve suggests and buy time to think through longer term mods. Good luck!
Old 02-10-2006, 12:24 PM
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I should be able to find a shop around that can do it. I will have to post some pics, but the damage is... the bolt/arm is actually pushed into the metal (from the back) which ripped the metal. Making the alignment off on the rear axle. The axle is at a small angle now /
Do you think a body shop would be the best bet. My main concern is the alignment. It gets pretty twitchy if you drive it 70 over certain kinds of bumps. I'll post pics.
Old 02-10-2006, 06:38 PM
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Pics
If you look at another one, it is solid around the bolts.



Last edited by jeremys73; 02-10-2006 at 06:39 PM.
Old 02-10-2006, 08:57 PM
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What kind of wreck was your rig in?
Old 02-10-2006, 11:42 PM
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What's up w/ all the corrosion? That would help the metal to fail.
Old 02-10-2006, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by PO2SIMS
What's up w/ all the corrosion? That would help the metal to fail.
Thats also what I am wondering? That rig has like 8,000 miles or something on it, but it has sat for awhile too. The rusting is only on the flange around the holes though.

Last edited by 914runner; 02-10-2006 at 11:55 PM.
Old 02-11-2006, 05:22 AM
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All you need to do is find a local welder. Have him make you a new outter plate for the bracket and weld it on. The hole is a 9/16" or M14.

The drop braket I make will fix the rear or have the guy fix that as well with some weld on plates.

You could order new brackets from Toyota but it is a truly easy fix. If you can find a guy that will TIG weld a small repair plate that would be even better. As now these brackets would be very stout.
Old 02-11-2006, 08:23 AM
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Cool, thanks for the advice. I'lll be getting that bracket from ya pretty soon. I got a really good deal on this truck (after looking at what dealerships are asking for theirs). And I also get the donor rig b4 long for less than $2000, which will be a nice spare drivetrain, engine and everything.
So, two trucks for around $8k... not too bad.

I think the rust is from them tack welding the bolts in place. I'm not sure what kind of wreck it was in. All I can tell is that it "seems" like some young kid had it, wheeled it hard and stupidly and rolled it. The wheels have serious rashes and the skid plates have some good dents in them... But mine is what they look like after being rolled and fixed. You'd have to have a really good eye to know any different.

If anyone is curious about buying insurance wrecks... Both of these were bought for under $3000 each. The '99 Limited was $2900 and it has a complete drivetrain from the engine to the eLocker. It has NO frame damage, just body damage. Tough a$$ toyota

Last edited by jeremys73; 02-11-2006 at 08:33 AM.
Old 02-15-2006, 08:20 AM
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Found a good local welder/mechanic/bodyshop... charge will be $60 to install the drop bracket and fix the other bracket. and $290 to swap each axle while its down.

Last edited by jeremys73; 02-15-2006 at 08:22 AM.
Old 02-15-2006, 09:03 AM
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Post some pics of the fixed rear link bracket when its done. I'm looking for ideas on how to reinforce mine.
Old 02-15-2006, 09:19 AM
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Sounds like you have a carfull of spare parts!
Old 02-15-2006, 01:01 PM
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Hopefully I won't need too many parts, but just in case I need another engine and tranny, or axles or frame or seats or carpet or door panels or taillights... the $2000 for the parts truck will be cheap in comparison.

I will post pics of before and after. He's thinking about using hardened washers welded in place. Which may be harder than the factory steel. Anyone know if the hardened washers would be strong enough? I think he said "a few hardened washers" on each side. So maybe two washers welded to it.
Old 02-15-2006, 02:54 PM
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Ive been thinking about doing something like this http://www.spydercustoms.com/parts/s...n/imga0106.jpg
another pic http://www.spydercustoms.com/parts/s...ga0152_med.jpg
http://www.spydercustoms.com/parts/s...ga0156_med.jpg

Last edited by Ric; 02-15-2006 at 02:59 PM.
Old 02-15-2006, 04:16 PM
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Thats an interesting idea, just wondering if putting the heim on the horizontal would cause any problems.
Old 02-16-2006, 08:03 AM
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What is it? For the panhard or the link brackets? Looks mighty interesting though...

EDIT: I looked at that site. Interesting stuff. So how are you thinking of using that. Do you think the heims would increase rear flex. I wish they had a 'full' weld on bracket. That one seems to need to be mounted on the side of the frame with a bolt going all the way through the frame. Or maybe just using the heims on the stock locations?

Last edited by jeremys73; 02-16-2006 at 08:11 AM.
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