Rear Diff Question
#1
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Rear Diff Question
Two weeks ago I took my 4runner in for safety and emissions testing and to have another noise checked out and to have another alignment done (alignment is still goofy at the whole lower ball joint failure, this is the 3rd one).
When doing the inspection the tech notice an odd sound coming from the rear end. The tech diagonics is that the bearing in the rear diff. is starting to go and should be replaced as a preventative maintenance measure. Quote for them to do the work and service the 4 wheel drive is $995.00 .
Needless to say I haven't done this yet. My question is then how do you know that the bearing in the rear diff is starting to go? Is there a particular sound or a certain feel to it? Does that price quote seem about right for this type of work? How diffifcult is it to replace the bearing?
At the beginning of this week I've started to notice some short of slippage (at least that's how it feels, seems like its coming from the rear)) when you accelator from a start then past that it's fine. Would this be caused by a bad bearing as mentioned above?
I'm starting to get a sick of the amount of $$ I've had to spend as late on this due to problems. So any advice you all could give me would be great.
When doing the inspection the tech notice an odd sound coming from the rear end. The tech diagonics is that the bearing in the rear diff. is starting to go and should be replaced as a preventative maintenance measure. Quote for them to do the work and service the 4 wheel drive is $995.00 .
Needless to say I haven't done this yet. My question is then how do you know that the bearing in the rear diff is starting to go? Is there a particular sound or a certain feel to it? Does that price quote seem about right for this type of work? How diffifcult is it to replace the bearing?
At the beginning of this week I've started to notice some short of slippage (at least that's how it feels, seems like its coming from the rear)) when you accelator from a start then past that it's fine. Would this be caused by a bad bearing as mentioned above?
I'm starting to get a sick of the amount of $$ I've had to spend as late on this due to problems. So any advice you all could give me would be great.
#2
you need to break down the estimate better...
-third member service:$xxx
-4 wheel drive service: $xxx
which bearing in the rear diff? there are 4 or so. setting up a third is not something everyone can do. You can get a new master install kit for $125'ish which would have new bearings etc. A lot of shops will charge $150-250 to rebuild a rear end if your bring the third member in to them. I can get a third out in about 45 minutes
check out Zuk's site: http://gearinstalls.com/
-third member service:$xxx
-4 wheel drive service: $xxx
which bearing in the rear diff? there are 4 or so. setting up a third is not something everyone can do. You can get a new master install kit for $125'ish which would have new bearings etc. A lot of shops will charge $150-250 to rebuild a rear end if your bring the third member in to them. I can get a third out in about 45 minutes
check out Zuk's site: http://gearinstalls.com/
#3
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They didn't break out the 4x4 service from the diff pricing.
They quoted me on the following:
Rear Diff Bearing Kit
Crush Sleave 41231-24010
Gasket 42181-60050
Seal 90311-38047
Nut 90179-20018
In bearing 90366-35087
Out bearing 90366-30067
They quoted me on the following:
Rear Diff Bearing Kit
Crush Sleave 41231-24010
Gasket 42181-60050
Seal 90311-38047
Nut 90179-20018
In bearing 90366-35087
Out bearing 90366-30067
#4
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If you can remove the 3rd yourself, you'll save some money. It's pretty easy (the front one on our trucks is a lot worse to r&r). Then bring it to a good shop because the actual diff setup is trickier and is very important to do correctly. Most places shouldn't charge more than about $200 to set-up a diff. Expect another $100 or so if you have them r&r it too. Plus the "$125ish" for the master bearing kit and you're looking at about $350-450ish. Just take it to a shop that does gears regularly, not just any mechanic.
"4x4 service" means changing the fluids in the diffs and the t-case. Really, that's just the t-case and the front diff and your rear diff will already be getting done. So a few quarts of gear oil and it's an easy DIY job to do in .5-1 hour.
A bad pinion bearing (which is what I'm guessing they were talking about) makes kind of a "hoooooooooov" sorta noise when they get worn out. But the slipping you say you're feeling sounds like the tranny. Do the rpms go up when it does it?
EDIT: Before you do anything, I would drain your rear diff first and see if there's any metal in there.
"4x4 service" means changing the fluids in the diffs and the t-case. Really, that's just the t-case and the front diff and your rear diff will already be getting done. So a few quarts of gear oil and it's an easy DIY job to do in .5-1 hour.
A bad pinion bearing (which is what I'm guessing they were talking about) makes kind of a "hoooooooooov" sorta noise when they get worn out. But the slipping you say you're feeling sounds like the tranny. Do the rpms go up when it does it?
EDIT: Before you do anything, I would drain your rear diff first and see if there's any metal in there.
Last edited by brian2sun; 06-24-2011 at 10:07 PM.
#5
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I plan on draining the rear diff this week and filtering to look for any metal shavings.
On top of this I had a misfire of cylinder #3 so new plugs and wires went in all around but I still have a shutter.
On top of this I had a misfire of cylinder #3 so new plugs and wires went in all around but I still have a shutter.
#6
$250 bench rebuild plus parts
You are paying the high $$$ for them to tear down your axle and rebuild it.
Proactive fix might save you having to buy new R&P later or use this as chance to regear and add a locker...or two.
:wabbit2:
You are paying the high $$$ for them to tear down your axle and rebuild it.
Proactive fix might save you having to buy new R&P later or use this as chance to regear and add a locker...or two.
:wabbit2:
#7
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all new thrid costs $600
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-157...-8-v6-3rd.html
if you want a locker or LSD now it the time to add it.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-157...-8-v6-3rd.html
if you want a locker or LSD now it the time to add it.
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#8
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all new thrid costs $600
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-157...-8-v6-3rd.html
if you want a locker or LSD now it the time to add it.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-157...-8-v6-3rd.html
if you want a locker or LSD now it the time to add it.
#9
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Oh, he has the elocker, mmmm
I wonder if East Coat Gear could send a new built elocked third? Like you said, it's worth a call.
Inchworm ships elocked thirds but the cost is $1,299.
http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/pr...products_id=38
Maybe they give a lot back on the core if you send back an elocked diff? Also, worth a call IMO.
My rear diff made noise for two years before I fixed it. For me, it was a damaged pinion bearing.
Of course, if you have a good local diff mechanic that is a lot eaiser but this is one of those things where expericance counts a lot.
I wonder if East Coat Gear could send a new built elocked third? Like you said, it's worth a call.
Inchworm ships elocked thirds but the cost is $1,299.
http://www.inchwormgear.com/store/pr...products_id=38
Maybe they give a lot back on the core if you send back an elocked diff? Also, worth a call IMO.
My rear diff made noise for two years before I fixed it. For me, it was a damaged pinion bearing.
Of course, if you have a good local diff mechanic that is a lot eaiser but this is one of those things where expericance counts a lot.
#10
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ECGS does elocked 3rds too, but I'll bet it will be expensive because they (or Inchworm) would send out an elocker that's been gone through, rebuilt, and in new condition, but they'd be taking a working (but not new) elocker in exchange. I think in the OP's case it would be cheaper to just pull the 3rd and take it to a local shop to put new bearings in. Can't hurt to call ecgs or inchworm and ask though.
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