arielb1

Hey Guys,

Thanks in advance for your time, experience and helping me. Any and all advice is appreciated.

My 1994 4x4 4runner, 110k miles has had the front brakes changed twice within 12K miles because the steering wheel and entire chassis shakes and shudders as I depress the brake pedal. Here is a thread discussing my headache and wallet breaker...https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ht=rear+brakes.

Special thanks and KUDOS to nunsa, GregStevens, and others for educating me. I have finally decided on a course of action. Since the problem goes away after I replace the front brakes, I thought I would start there.

I plan to disassemble my rear drum brakes first and verify pad thinkness. If there is not enough thickness, then R&R the rear brakes. My rears have never been replaced. Something is causing the rotors to warp. Remove and replace front brakes...again. This time I plan to do it myself and I will use Brembo solid rotors and PF brakes from Autozone. Verify all nuts and bolts including the axel nut is torqued to factory specs.

Question
1.) What do you think of this plan?
2.) Do you have a link on 'how to replace back drum brakes'? I have done disc plenty of times. I learned how to do back drums, but it has been over 20 years since I have done this procedure. I need to get special tools again from Autozone, and need a quick refresher course. Btw, I have searched for an hour on past threads for rear brake replacement proceedures, but no luck. However, you can't believe what I have learned....TONS!!!

Thank you and good Karma to you.

arielb1

Bump....any thoughts?

fustercluck

ariel, if you are burning through front brakes with that frequency, i'd be willing to bet my nine year old that your rear brakes are in effective. that could be because of mis/mal adjustment or worn shoes or both. and since your vehicle is 10 years old without rear brake work, i'd say it's time. get a manual for your application. you could get advice here but you'll want to refer to it as you work on the job. plus, the manual-if you get a good one- will walk you through R/R step by step and explain about adjustment procedures.

i've had this issue before and trust me, it will get frustrating and expensive after the fifth front brake job. do your rears first and verify load percentage; then fix the fronts.

hope this helps. -fuster-

arielb1

Fuster,

Thank you. How do I verify load percentage?

I am getting 16 clicks from my e-brake. I understand from past threads that I should only be getting 5 to 6 clicks. My e-brake is the type that you have to pull and turn to release. Yes, I have never changed the back brake. I will do this tomorrow. Again, how do I verify load percentage? Thanks again. You are helping me. Lots of gratitude.

fustercluck

the manual may tell you, but generally if you have it adjusted as per specs, the brake mechanism will do the rest. if you are in doubt, call the local dealership and ask for a service tech. they are generally willling to help out over the phone.

MTL_4runner

You might also check your front wheel bearings because if they are allowing too much play in the rotor, it will cause the rotor to touch the pads constantly and heat up prematurely......leading to warped rotors.

Do both rotors get warped at the same time?

Also check the e-brake adjusters on the back drum brakes because the lever arm does tend to stick and often causes the drums to need more pedal travel to engage or wear quickly.

I have found that once the rotors are warped, toss em!
They will warp again soon if you turn them instead of replacing.

arielb1

thank you for your help guys.

I am very, very frustrated. Well, I took the rear brakes apart...and they are good. In fact, they are not worn at all. It appears somewhat new. Is it possible that they are not being used (activating)? Meanwhile, my emergency brake has 16 clicks before it takes hold of the brakes. I tried doing the trick I learned here on this forum. While reversing, yank on the e-brake until it only goes 6 clicks. I have tried this up to 20 times, but still 16 clicks. Should I open the rubber stop behind the rear back plate and use a screw driver to increase the ratchet effectively increasing brake travel?


The rotors both warp evidently. I will have to wait till next week to resolve this. Meanwhile, I need to figure out why after 110k miles my back brakes appear somewhat new. Thanks all.

MTL_4runner

There is a lever on the backplate for each drum....you need to make sure they are free to move (ie if you pull on the e-brake cable from underneath, you should see them move). If your drums are way out of adjustment you may need to take the drums off and adjust them manually.

arielb1

Thank you MTL, this is not the first time you have help me.

Well, I stuck the flat head back there and ratcheted the spindle upward tightening the brakes towards the drums. I think that did it. Now when I pull on the e-brake, instead of 16 clicks I am down to where it should be...4 clicks. Apparently, I think the reason why the back brakes look so new is that they were not being used and only the fronts were doing the work. This may also explain why the fronts are warping causing the shuddering effect.

I did not have to take off the drums to adjust the brakes...again I worked from the backplate. So, MTL, do you think this has solved my problem? Can I now concentrate on the front disc? Can I just turn the rotors? I prefer not to have to buy new rotors cuz so costly. Thanks for your help MTL. You are a god send to me. In fact, everyones help and advise has taught me plenty...thank all.

fustercluck

yup, i'd say that your problem was that the back brakes were not doing the job they were designed to do--the evidence being that they showed little or no wear. from here, all other factors being eliminated, you should have no more premature rotor service required. good luck, it sounds like you may have fixed the prob.-fuster-

arielb1

Thank you again,

Should I purchase new or turn the rotors?

MTL_4runner

No prob at all on the help!

I know it sucks, but everytime I have turned them, the warp in just a few miles....total waste of money.
....if I were doing it, I would buy new rotors.

Also when it gets warmer you should pull off those drums and redo the grease on the brake hardware (esp the adjuster). I have a feeling this may only fix it for you temporarily and you'll have to keep doing it manually. It is a pain in the a$$ but it is the only way to be sure the problem with the rear brakes will go away.

Mad Chemist

At least on the third gens, you can adjust the rear brakes by going in reverse ~3-5 MPH, then pulling/releasing the e-brake lever (without letting it lock up by keeping the button depressed- this is supposed to ratched up the rear pads.