slowyota

I'm looking at either going with 32's or possibly 33's when my current tires wear out.

Vehicle = 95 4runner 4x4 v6 w/5 spd. It came from the factory with the smaller gears (not sure of the size).

Current tires = 31x11.50R15 MTX's. Which give me 16.5 MPG.

Current Mods = T-bars cranked and the Downey HD leveling
coils and 2 1/2 cat-back exhaust.

Possible new tires = 32 or 33 Goodyear MT/R's or Mickey MTX's.

The questions I have are:

1. Gas Mileage.
What kind of gas mileage could I expect with 33 inch tires?
What kind of gas mileage could I expect with 32 inch tires?

2. Body Lift.
To clear 33 in tires would I need a 1in or 2in body lift?
(I know I'll clear the 32's without any further mod's, so I'm guessing 1in BL)

Tried searching before and didn't get any clear answers.

Thanks.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

In order to fit 33" tires on my rig with no rub I"m going with a 2" body lift from Roger Brown.

Hope this helps some!

Brian

dusty98

You'll need to regear for 32 or 33 inch tires, unless you like having less power.
I went with 4:88's when I had mine done. Course if you're going to do gears, might as well put lockers in there too.
With my 5spd, 4:88's and 32's I get 21 on the highway. Course its flat here and we're at sea level.

slowyota

Oh yes. I've been mulling over a locker for a few months.

As for re-gearing do you mind me asking what the total cost was?

Flygtenstein

ODW has this ad nauseum, tons of great reading on this very topic.

I have 33's and am pretty sure this has been covered here too, could be all that stuff runs together in my head.

Right now I run 33's on my 95 with 5.29 gears and the automatic tranny. Lift is with a 1" bodylift, rear cruiser coils, negligible t-bar adjustment and some hammering/grinding of the fender seam.

Should you regear? Yes.

Mileage on the highway is better than with 31's and 4.56's IF you are concerned about mileage, I would not get 33's.

dusty98

Here's some prices including parts/labor, make sure you're sitting down
5 years ago for 4:88's, ARB in the rear & Tru-Trac in the front ran $3k.
Last year my ring & pinion went and to rebuild the rear end was $600.

Make sure you get gears that are for the V6. My first set were for the 4 cylinder models and used shims to make them work. They were noisy and only lasted 65k. The new set is for the V6 and they're quiet as stock & I hope they last longer. Course, the last shop was much more experienced than the first so I'm sure that's a lot of it. Good luck.

cool rob

slowyota...I've got a 5-speed Limited; I don't know for sure what the stock gearing is. Anyway, I ran 32s' for about 3 months before I was convinced 33s' would fit with my lift set-up. The only rubbing I encounter is w/ the mudflaps but that's tolerable. Surpisingly, there was no noticeable difference in my fuel economy (I average about 15-17mpgs' now) or acceleration.