twitchee2

So the last thing i need to do for my maintenance spree is the tranny. I have a 02 which has the auto. This past week has been a huge learning experience for me ive done, front diff/xfer/rear oil changes, put my OME suspension on, front upper ball joints and the last thing to do is the tranny and i want to know how to do it right. all the others were nice and strait forward but i need some direction for this part. I was talking to my uncle he said you drain and refill and then drain and refill again. Is that correct? I haven't gone and looked at it depth but where is the fill plug? do i need a pump? I would like to go syn as ive switched everything else, what ATF would you suggest? I put royal purple in the gears. Thanks for all input.

Krylon

**EDIT** Well I did a search and found the pic above and these directions on 4x4wire.com. Looks like these Yotas have a metal mesh screen filter that does not need changed (at least for the 03). So check this out:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...p4.html#tranny


Transmission fluid or oil��



Draining and refilling the fluid is all that is recommended for the automatic transmission. The filters in the newer models covered here use a metal housing with a synthetic mesh screen. Toyota does not require removal and cleaning of the filter. If the fluid you drain out is not cherry red or slightly darkened, but a reddish brown color, it is likely burnt. You should consider having it professionally flushed. I have drained and refilled the approximately four quarts at every engine oil change, and my fluid is still bright red and shows no signs of degradation after 35,000 miles. Since the dealer would like to sell you a professional flush every 30,000 miles, regular drain and fills can result in a considerable savings. However, if you fluid is already discolored, due to towing or neglect, a professional flush may be advised. Vehicles that are regularly used for towing should also have a stacked plate transmission cooler installed for added insurance against wear and tear.

To change the auto tranny fluid, you will need a drain pan, a ratchet and 14mm socket, and a funnel small enough to fit in the dipstick tube (for refilling). You'll also need the fluid of your choice and some kind of container to safely transport the used fluid to a collection facility. The book states the capacity as 2.1 quarts, but both of my automatics take 4, which may be due to a typograpical error in the book. Only add back what is needed, as measured by using the COLD level on your dipstick with the vehicle idling in PARK (the HOT level is only for checking after extended driving). I only mentioned the four quarts so you can purchase enough so you don't come up short on your first change. The drain plug uses a crush washer that was intended to be replaced each time. I have re-used mine without problems, but be sure to check for leaks in the first few days after a change. Many have reported stripping out the threads on the drain plug, so caution is advised. The torque is listed as 20 ft. lbs.(240 inch lbs.), I prefer to use 150 inch lbs.

To change the manual tranny oil, you will need a drain pan, a ratchet and 24mm socket, and a possibly a manual pump for refilling. These manual pumps fit the more common plastic bottles of gear oil. You'll also need the oil of your choice and some kind of container to safely transport the used oil to a collection facility. After draining and re-installing the plug, refill the tranny until oil starts to spill out the fill hole. Re-install the fill plug. The plugs may be torqued to 25 ft. lbs.

sharrack

Not sure if it's the same as a 99 but I removed the passenger side transmission
hose from the radiator/cooler and stuck it in a gallon container.
Start truck........lose a quart or two.
Stop truck and fill with 2
Repeat process until crimson red is flowing........... Complete flush.
I don't remember what the finally number was.

Kenny S>

toylocost

the proper way to service a tranny?!?!?!?!?!?!?

I hope your talking about the one with the gears in it in your truck!

twitchee2

so its just a drain and refill till its good. easy enough.

Toylo do you have something you need to tell us?!?!

toylocost

You started the thread not me.

Does this have anything to do with "drag" racing?

twitchee2

ohhh man this went down hill FAST hahahahaha

Anyway back on topic. what atf fluid does everyone suggest?

toylocost

I prefer the slippery stuff....

<<<OK thats 300. I'm done.

twitchee2

Sense i dont know when it was seriviced last, would it be worthwhile to take it in and get it flushed?

97ltd4x4

Do a manual flush,drain and fill the pan...will take a few quarts of fluid through dipstick.

Remove shorter cooler line from radiator...put line in bucket(empty washerfluid,clear type),might need to extend line to reach bucket,use a double barbed fitting and extra hose.

Start vehical..watch container..let it fill half way or 2 quarts..shut vehical off..

fill through dipstick..2 quarts....start vehical..let fill all the way...shut vehical off..add 2 quarts through dipstick.. drain catch bucket..

Continue doing this untill the fuild comming out of the hose is new....on the last fill try to add a little less,put cooler line back on...start vehical let it warm up and add the last quart untill the level is correct.

Plan on using atleast a case...maybe a little more to do a complete manual flush....don't forget to double check the cooler line for leaks when you are done..the clamp needs to go back exactly where it was located on hose(will see depresion in hose)..or replace w/aftermarket screw type clamp if it leaks...

Note: i use this funnel to fill through dipstick,the funnel is small enough to get inside the dipstick...keep pressure on funnel to minimise leaking at dipstick tube:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...&redirect=true

Use dex3/4,or synthetic dex3..I personally use Toyota type4...But I don't want to open up another can of worms about that.
The important thing is to get as much old fluid out and new in..so flush it with name brand dex3/4(pennzoil,mobile,ect)

okie81

It's not as cheap as doing it yourself, but sometimes it's easier just to take it in and get it flushed. That way you get all the old stuff out (even the hard-to-reach fluid in the torque converter).

The problem with taking it in for service is that they'll probably throw in standard ATF so you'll have to specify if you want something special/different.

twitchee2

Thats what i was thinking, The question is what ATF fluid do i want? What does everyone suggest?

Krylon

Alot of regular service shops I know will just drain and refill the fluid. Not a full on flush.. Still leaves some old stuff in there.

The method the guys are talking about above isn't bad, but you're stuill not going to get a complete flush of the old stuff as you're mixing it together.

Only way to truely flush it is to take it to a transmission shop...



As for fluid, if you can afford it, go with a good sythetic like Amsoil.

gilby4runner

Just a question....
I have heard that if you have a good number of miles and it has never been flushed then you run the risk of faliure after flushing the system. At 100,000 i just drained and refilled. I was pretty certain that it had never been flushed so i didnt want to break loose any crap that was in there.

Just a thought...

scuba

I have heard that also ^^

BajaRunner

That happened to me with my engine when I used Amsoil cleaning agent before switching to synthetic.

dh515

I changed all the fluids on my 98 that I bought in August of 08 with 158,000 miles on it. Tranny fluid looked bad as if it had never been changed. Didn't want to mess with that part in my driveway so I took it to a tranny shop and had them drop the pan, change the filter and flush. Refilled with Amsoil synthetic. 5,000 miles on it since then and no problems. Shop I used was Inglewood Transmission in Fullerton. They charged me about $100 for labor with me supplying the fluid and did a good job in about 2 hours.

97ltd4x4

The manual way I decribed will replace the same amount of fluid as using machine,If not more depending on how much fluid you use..Machines are not externaly powered,they are doing a fluid replacement through the coolers lines using the trans pump to move the fluid...Just as I decribed in my manual flush..But they do it continuious instead of starting and filling..the machine has a resevoir with new fluid..It depends on how much fluid you run through the system that determins the % of fluid replaced..not the machine.

On wheather to flush the fluid or not,It depends on the fluid condition..Not millage.

If the fluid stinks and has bits of material in it..then no..start saving for a trans..cause the damage is already done..the old fluid has already broken down to the point of wearing friction material because broken-down fluid has lost its hydraulic pressure rating..causing friction slips,shutters..replacing with new fluid in a trans with this condition will now raise hydraulic pressure,causing more rapid wear of frictions=slipping trans.

On the other hand fluid that is dark,no particulates in fluid,dose not stink to high heaven..the fluid is starting to break down and flushing fluid will help trans.Because raising hydraulic pressure at this point will lessen the chance of friction slipage..

BigBallsMcFalls

well

the 'proper way' is with a machine programmed to flush it and fill the exact
amount.

97ltd4x4

Only if the starting amount is correct...flush with a trans overfilled.....the machine will over fill it............Flush with it underfilled..the machine will underfill it...

The machines are not externally powered.....they are powered from the trans pump...the machines have a drain...so when they over fill it they can drain some out to get it back to a correct level..the techs still have to check it through the dipstick to get a proper level,same as in a manual flush...

BUT the machine cannot move fluid by itself...the vehical must be running....same as in a manual flush...

Look guys,trans flush machines are not some magical beast,It is not some power flush,its a fluid replacement machine..it uses the trans pump(vehical running)to circulate fluid through the cooler lines,one cooler line dumps into a resevoir(waste),other is hooked up to a new fluid resevoir,which is attached to the return cooler line that dumps the new fluid into the pan..the machine has a dual turbine system(like a turbo)..whatever volume comes in.... goes out...Thats it.....The machine can also drain incomming fluid,which bypasses the turbine(not turning) to lower the level in the pan.